Laser Engraver/Cutter - Questions and Decisions

[Scott Shepherd]

Jack, that start line is because it's moving when it's cutting. You might have too much heat in it. It's hard to explain, but once you see it happen, it'll make sense. When you put a lot of heat into some materials, they want to really move around. As it gets closer to the end of the cut, it shifts around in the kerf and causes that mismatch. What speed/power did you use to cut through it? I was cutting some acrylic the other day and watched it actually move the material 1/8" when I was cutting it, while the acrylic was moving around as it was cutting. There are techniques to deal with it all.

[Mike Null]

The mark you referred to happens when I'm cutting 1/32" and sometimes 1/16" material. I have been able to remove it by rubbing the edge with denatured alcohol. It doesn't happen often but I am familiar with it. I believe it occurs at the start point but with thin materials the heat will cause them to move.
By the way, DNA removes the sticky stuff from the edges as well.

[Jack Clague]

Jack, that start line is because it's moving when it's cutting. You might have too much heat in it. It's hard to explain, but once you see it happen, it'll make sense. When you put a lot of heat into some materials, they want to really move around. As it gets closer to the end of the cut, it shifts around in the kerf and causes that mismatch. What speed/power did you use to cut through it? I was cutting some acrylic the other day and watched it actually move the material 1/8" when I was cutting it, while the acrylic was moving around as it was cutting. There are techniques to deal with it all.

The mark you referred to happens when I'm cutting 1/32" and sometimes 1/16" material. I have been able to remove it by rubbing the edge with denatured alcohol. It doesn't happen often but I am familiar with it. I believe it occurs at the start point but with thin materials the heat will cause them to move.
By the way, DNA removes the sticky stuff from the edges as well.

Thanks. That makes perfect sense. It is a trolase and I was able to get a much cleaner cut by reducing the power. I'll experiment some more and try to find the optimum power speed ratio for cutting that material so it moves as little as possible.

I'm shut down for the night but will post my settings up tmrw for you Scott

I think for a first day it was rather productive

[Matt McCoy]

Looks awesome. Enjoyed following along. Best of luck.

[Jack Clague]

I did these today, anodized / brushed aluminum, came up so well my mate wanted his iphone 5 done with it, very happy with the quality, I specifically chose a very detailed image and scaled it right down, the Trotec did a great job replicating it.

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Close up shot
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[Glen Monaghan]

You engraved the display screen (3rd picture)???

[Scott Shepherd]

That's the black back Glen.

[Bert Kemp]

Yikes I surely hope its the back

That's the black back Glen.

[Scott Shepherd]

Yikes I surely hope its the back

Since is says "iPhone", where it's made, the CE label, and the apple logo, I think it's a safe bet that it's the back, along with the fact that I think he's smart enough to figure out which side needs to be engraved

[Jack Clague]

yes its the back haha... not missing that many brain cells (yet)

[Jacob John]

That is a beautiful piece of machinery. I am so damn jealous.

[Jack Clague]

Hi Guys,

I made a light box last night using makercase and opal white acrylic sheets, the finger slots are not a press fit so I will need to bond the pieces together, any suggestions to what I can use?

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[Scott Shepherd]

Weld On #16.

[Jack Clague]

Weld On #16.

Many Thanks Scott, will see who can supply that here in AU, any tips to applying?

[Scott Shepherd]

It's like model glue, it's runny, but a little thicker than the #3 that most people use. No real tips, just slather it on best you can and try not to get it where you don't want it