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Thread: Adding 90° stop to older Craftsman tablesaw

  1. #1

    Adding 90° stop to older Craftsman tablesaw

    I am in the process of tuning up my grandfather's 50s Craftsman tablesaw. The model is 113-27521. I've read through the manual (http://www.manualslib.com/manual/497...113-27521.html) and I can't find any mention of 90 or 45 stops. As it's currently set up, it is possible for me to turn the hand wheel too far and go past 90. I have re-set the tilt angle indicator pointer thing, but I would rather rely on a mechanical stop than my ability to correctly eyeball a needle pointing at a line.

    Looking at the guts, I'm pretty sure I've found the problem. The attached photo shows the tilt adjustment screw. It has a stop on it, but I can see that the lift bracket is able to slide up onto the stop instead of stopping when it reaches it. I don't think the problem is with the stop, I think the slot in the lift bracket is worn out so that it's big enough to slide over the stop. Since this part would be hard (impossible?) to find and the repair seems a little daunting, I came up with an alternative plan. I think there is room on the table saw base to just drill a hole from the outside and add my own stop bolt. I tried to illustrate that in the attached picture.

    20150827_102456-edit.jpg

    So my question...is this a bad idea? It seems simple enough, but I've been known to overlook simple things before. Has anyone done this kind of mod? Or see any problem with it?

  2. #2
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    Interesting problem with a reasonable solution. However, with the new bolt attached to what apears to be a "thin" sheet metal frame, there may be some "forgiveness" when using the stop, i.e. repeatability, butw hat do you have to lose? If it doesn't work, you can always remove your stop bolt.

  3. #3
    I hadn't considered that, but just looking at the picture I attached I think it should be fine. The outside is thin sheet metal, but there is a steel mounting plate that the tilt adjustment screw goes through and my stop bolt would go through that as well. If it's strong enough to hold to tilt screw I don't see why it wouldn't hold the stop bolt.

  4. #4
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    If you can measure the diameter of the existing stop, you might be able to purchase a stop collar that will fit over it such that it will hit the shoulders of the casting. Here is a stop collar. They come in various sizes.CIX_2C-012.jpg
    Lee Schierer
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  5. #5
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    I always use a square when setting 90°. I don't trust stops, they can get covered with caked on grease or sawdust and give a false setting.
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  6. #6
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    Lee has a great idea for an add-on stop. You could back the current one off till it is not in play. Either way, as others have stated, stops are just for rough reference. I never trust stops to actually be at, or remain at, 45* or 90* even on heavier machines.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #7
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    +++++ Stop collar - what a simple, straight forward, common sense solution!

  8. #8
    Yes, if I can find a split stop collar that could be installed on top of the existing stop, that would be a great solution. Thanks Lee! Although now you all have me distrusting the 90 degree stop entirely!
    Last edited by Pete Givens; 08-27-2015 at 5:06 PM. Reason: words

  9. #9
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    I'm not saying you shouldn't verify blade position with a square, but if the structure is rigid enough stops do work. The stops on my Unisaw work fine, perfectly in fact, and the saw is 61 years old. As far as I know, they have never been adjusted, certainly not in the 5+ years I've been using it. Sawdust doesn't build up on them either if you are careful not to go nuts with lubricant.

    John

  10. #10
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    I am with John on trusting stops on quality saws. I have been building some urns and most are 12 segments. I just crank it over till the rotary dial on my Clausing says 15 degrees, tighten the lock knob and cut. Works great and parts fit tight except the time I miscounted and tried to put in 13. It is about 60 years young also and if someone doesn't mess it up through operator error, I see no reason it won't still be making accurate cuts for another 60. I just finished refurbishing an old 113.27520 Craftsman and it will go past the 90 and 45 marks as well. Will also raise too high and the pulley will rub the bottom of the table. Lot of the slightly newer Craftsmans did have threaded stop collars in both the tilt and raise rods with set screws to lock them in place. Don't know if those collars would fit the 27520-27521 or not.
    Last edited by Dick Brown; 08-27-2015 at 7:34 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Givens View Post
    Yes, if I can find a split stop collar that could be installed on top of the existing stop, that would be a great solution. Thanks Lee! Although now you all have me distrusting the 90 degree stop entirely!
    I have a 113 saw and the stops get me close, but I rely on my Beall Tilt Box for the precise angles and 90 degree set points for actually making cuts.
    beall.JPG It was the best $40 I spent on my saw.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

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