bowl finishing

[Sadhaka Nilakantha]

Greetings and Aloha,
I am curious about natural and waterproof finishes. I have been experimenting over the years with different finishes. My favorite is to just buff out the bowls with the Beall system. However, I made some tap handles recently and as soon as it got wet the carnuba wax finish got spotty and pretty much came off altogether. I also buffed out a bowl and it got sprinkled with rain and it left marks in it. Before this I used oil finishes to a varying degree. I made a salad bowl and wet sanded it 00 steel wool and walnut oil. It looked nice but after a few uses of wiping it dry after I was done it was moldy the next day. The wood itself was dry when I finished it. It is very humid here in Kauai and I think that may have something to do with it. I've even tried shellac. I have to say I am not a big fan of that. Does anyone have some tips or suggestions. Thank you very much.

[Pat Scott]

All of the finishes that you've tried so far are the wrong ones to use if you want a lasting finish. Buffing a bowl with wax won't produce a waterproof finish, and wax at it's best is only a temporary finish. I'm not surprised rain caused spottiness.

Walnut oil is only a little better than wax. I call it a temporary finish also, because it's meant to be reapplied occasionally. How often depends on how often the bowl is used and washed.

Shellac would be an OK finish but only for a display piece - never for a bowl that is going to be used with food and then washed afterwards. Shellac builds up a hard (although thin) film and once that film is broken or worn away, water and dirt and bacteria can get under the surface and cause the finish to become cloudy. The only way to fix it is to completely sand all of the shellac off. Never use any film forming finish on a utility bowl (lacquer, straight poly or varnish, etc).

Have you tried Danish Oil? That's what I use on all of my utility bowls and platters, and years later they still look as good as they did when new, and I have yet to refinish any of them. You can buy Danish Oil at the store or mix your own. Danish oil is basically an equal mixture of an oil (Tung oil or Linseed oil), some kind of gloss varnish or urethane, and a thinner (mineral spirits, paint thinner, etc).

I use a small Dixie cup to measure equal amounts of each, but the beauty of making your own is that you can experiment with the ratios and brands that are used. Try Tung Oil one time and Linseed Oil the next. Try one brand of Varnish this time and another brand next. Try more oil or less oil, more or less varnish, etc.

Wipe it on, let it sit for a minute or two, and then wipe it all off. The oil soaks into the wood to enhance the grain, mineral spirits cuts the varnish/poly so it's thin enough to fill the pores but not sit on the surface, and once it dries the wood is protected but there is no film. It is possible to build up a film finish if you put too many coats on, but usually two or three coats is all it takes.

[Sadhaka Nilakantha]

Thank you. I've used Tried and True which is Tung oil and linseed oil also. I like the finish very much. I watched a you tube video with Reed Grey and I may have been mistaken but I thought he said that walnut oil is all he uses for utility type bowls. Thanks again.

[Dwight Rutherford]

Kelly Dunn is a professional turner on the Big Island. I'd contact him for suggestions.http://www.kellydunnwoodturner.com/

[Steve Schlumpf]

Hi Sadhaka! Welcome to the Creek! You didn't say what the purpose of the bowls are - meaning are they utilitarian or display? If utilitarian, I highly recommend Mike Mahoney's walnut oil. I live in a very humid area and have never had a problem with this oil. If for display, then I suggest the wipe-on-poly of your choice.

As far as a wax - I suggest trying Renaissance wax or Conservator's wax from the different woodturning retail outlets. Renaissance wax is easy to apply and is not affected by moisture; does not show fingerprints or cause finish problems normally caused by rain! Be sure to do some online shopping to find the best deals!

[Dennis Cloutier]

+1 for walnut oil. That is all I use on my functional bowls. It is lower gloss, and it needs periodic reapplication, but I like the gloss level and the feel. I sell bowls at a local craft coop gallery and my bowls sell at least as well as some of the other turners that use shiny finishes. Our own bowls have held up very well to regular use and washing in the sink.

For decorative bowls I use polymerized tung oil.

[Thomas Canfield]

There are several turning clubs in Hawaii, and there should be your best source of information. I have enjoyed visiting the Big Island several times in addition to a couple of trips to Kawaii. With the exceptional woods there, there are also some interesting problems with the humidity. Google turning clubs and get hooked up - at least on web.

[Sadhaka Nilakantha]

Thank you everyone for your help. I can see there are many different schools on what to use.

[Wes Ramsey]

I don't have anything to add, but wanted to give a shout out to Kauai. I camped for a long weekend on Annini Beach some years ago beach bum style. One of the prettiest places I've been on the planet. I sure miss the islands!

[Sadhaka Nilakantha]

Wes,
Annini is one of my favorite places! Come back and visit the island some day. Happy turning.

[Wade Lippman]

I would first put on BLO and then varnish. Perfectly food safe and durable. I've never understood walnut oil.

[Sean Hughto]

Well, BLO is "boiled" by adding heavy metal drying agents like lead acetate and cobalt-manganese. I don't want these near my food or to ingest any when the finish is scraped or flakes as will happen to a salad bowl or cutting board over time when coated with varnish.

Walnut oil would be safe to drink and bees wax safe to eat. They also create an easily renewable finish that will not flake or chip as film finishes will tend to do over time with use like salad bowls get.