Track saw vs. track saw systems

[Jim Dwight]

As ive read this stuff ive thought what am I missing how do people break down a 4 x 8? are they measuring is there a guide system for square, how accurate is it, is there a guide system for Parrallel, how accurate is it, cut a 4 x 8 into six pieces how long does it take and how accurate.

My Mcgiver stick has worked just fine and if it takes a few minutes longer to put two clamps on the odd job I need it for on a 100 hour job so what. I watched the fancy video and saw a bunch of guys talk about how great it is onsite, no dust cut doors better than their table saw. No one showed a 4 x 8 cut down for say kitchen lowers and uppers to see how fast it is, or with tolerances or the whole story So Mark thanks for mentioning there is more to it but would be nice if one of them shows the whole story. I do see the value and its better than my Mcgiver stick and can do more however. Jointing with a track saw? It cant do a spring joint. Ripping thick lumber, my 3 hp saw is underpowered at times for that. Whats the cost of the whole rig? its all new to me and have to digest it, if someone knows of a video that gives the whole story please put it up. I looked up the saw and track and there was nothing for jig guides for square or parallel on the site that I looked at

I don't think you can get everything in one place but here is a good video of Ron Paulk using a Festool with parallel guide (Festool, there are 3 others available) to cut up multiple sheets of plywood for some garage cabinets:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqA9edtoSCs

It doesn't have a real elapsed time but it gives you a good view of the process. Ron's bench is easily adapted to other brands of saws. Parallel guides do not, to my knowledge, exist for other brands but I made one for my DeWalt based upon a thread on this website. Ron's workbench design has a crosscut jig setup that should be extremely accurate - it can be trued as necessary. Parallel guide accuracy is quite good but I prefer to clamp the rail so it can't shift during cutting. For sheet goods that doesn't seem necessary but I like to use mine on solid wood too and it isn't as dependably flat so the track can move easier. There are a couple parallel jigs that do not prevent clamping. That would be an advantage.

The things you have to look out for are different with a track saw but used correctly, I don't see any reason for it to be less accurate than a table saw. The saw cuts EXACTLY on the edge of the guide. Not even 1/128 off. You just have to put the track where you want the cut to be. Speed will be a function of the setup for both.

[Kent A Bathurst]

...My old workflow was to cut down sheet goods to approximate size, then finalize the size on a table saw. With a good tracksaw you can simply skip the 2-cut approach and go right to finished size......

OK, Mark - I get that.

I'm still not sure I could not eliminate the TS from the shop.......too much work is solid wood from rough stock. So - for me - a shop-made version to break down ply first seems to fit best. I am taking a couple more steps that I would with a real system, but it is not a big % of what I do, so there is a balance in there somewhere...

Thanks for your comments - well thought out.

Kent

[Chris Padilla]

I didn't read the whole thread but if anyone cuts at anything other than the blade at 0 degrees (or 90 degrees depending on how you like to call it), can the r'glar old circular saws and EZ handle that with no problem? It is no problem with the Festool because of the pivot point. You you use the same trace and the same zero-clearance little rubber piece at the track's edge to keep those cuts splinter/tear-out free.

[Allan Speers]

I didn't read the whole thread but if anyone cuts at anything other than the blade at 0 degrees (or 90 degrees depending on how you like to call it), can the r'glar old circular saws and EZ handle that with no problem? It is no problem with the Festool because of the pivot point. You you use the same trace and the same zero-clearance little rubber piece at the track's edge to keep those cuts splinter/tear-out free.

You raise a good point. With the EZ system, only normal cuts and 90º cuts put the blade right against the anti-chip edge. All other bevelled cuts leave a gap.

Of course, such cuts then still leave an edge as good as a table saw, (which has NO anti-chip edge at all) so it's not the biggest problem in the world. (And how often do you cut 33 degrees?

I have an idea to solve this, however, with my EZ-ONE table, and improve dust collection at the same time: My idea is to angle the TRACK instead of the blade, always leaving the saw in its "stock" blade position. I have to figure out how to angle the bridge, so only the front plastic edge of the track is touching the stock. I think this is a viable plan,the EZ track, because the EZ track is extremely stiff and should support the saw without bending. - But we shall see. The 10" Makita is a bit heavy, so there might be a problem with the plastic edge itself bending.

[Michael Cole]

Michael,
Please check your Purchase Agreement for the Domino, I believe you will find, in the very fine print on the reverse side, that you are now required/obligated to purchase only Festool products or have the existing warranty voided and your personal well being put at risk.

My personal experience is that once you "buy" into the Festool system you will continue to build upon it. This is expensive but rewarding in the long run. I have designed, built, used many saw guidance elements over the years and IMHO the Festool track and saws are the best I've experienced.

To be honest, my first choice would be the Festool (probably the cordless one), but it is quite a bit more expensive. However, I have learned over my 62 years that sometimes when you spend more, you get more and after a short time you will forget about the extra money.

[mark mcfarlane]

OK, Mark - I get that.

I'm still not sure I could not eliminate the TS from the shop.......too much work is solid wood from rough stock. So - for me - a shop-made version to break down ply first seems to fit best. I am taking a couple more steps that I would with a real system, but it is not a big % of what I do, so there is a balance in there somewhere...

Thanks for your comments - well thought out.

Kent

Two last thoughts. Although I haven't tried it, I suspect a tracksaw wouldn't be very good at cutting off the live edge on a warped/cupped board. A slider with clamps seems ideal for this.

My limited experience with my track saw indicates they aren't very good at working with narrow wood. Although you can use another board to help support the track, there is no obvious way to clamp and rip a 1" wide board and the risk of board movement is pretty high. Still, I was able to do tapers on 8/4 legs with the tracksaw, but was a tad nervous.

[Kent A Bathurst]

A slider with clamps seems ideal for this.

True - but I have a nice sled w/clamps that does the same thing on my TS.........put it in play when I have that task at hand.

Lately, though, I have been getting good enough free-handing through the BS that I can do that, and then go to the jointer - a couple extra passes, but I don't have to drag out the sled.

[Allan Speers]

Two last thoughts. Although I haven't tried it, I suspect a tracksaw wouldn't be very good at cutting off the live edge on a warped/cupped board. A slider with clamps seems ideal for this.

That's one example of how the stiffness of the EZ track can be beneficial, over the flexibility of all other tracks. The same is true of cutting 1/8 & 1/4" ply, especially if it's a little warped. In the first case, the track's stiffness helps maintain a level (hence 90 degree) cut over the wonky stock. In the second case, when you clamp the thin ply to the stiff track, it straightens the ply out to some degree.

[Bryan Cramer]

No I don't think so. It is very close; within an 1/8". Maybe I can find a 7 1/2" blade to do that. There is room in the guard.