Galvanized or stainless cable for my hoist?

[Wade Lippman]

The 3/16" cable on my 600 pound hoist broke (fresh water). It was long enough that I could just reattach the broken end, but it probably should be replaced. I only need 15'. Cable at Lowes was surprisingly cheap; $0.56/ft for stainless and $0.48/ft for galvanized. SS is 760 pounds and galvanized is 840 pounds.

I expected the SS would be twice the price, but since it isn't...
Do I go with SS for the longer life, or galvanized for the extra strength?
Or is there another consideration?

[Brian Ashton]

Some factors to consider:

At that price difference it's chinese stainless which pretty much means it rusts, but less than non-stainless.

Stainless also work hardens so the more you crank the cable in and out the more it will get hard = brittle and fraying of the cable. If you only crank the cable in every couple months there's no issue...

What are humidity levels like in NY throughout the year - that will effect the rusting rate of all metals.

Your hoist is rated for 600lb so what's the indecision about.

The only other consideration is buying quality as opposed to what you've been looking at. Considering you only need 15' the price difference isn't a real factor to most.

YMMV

[Ole Anderson]

3/16" stainless has a breaking strength of about 3900 pounds, the numbers you are calling out include a safety factor of five, presuming you are not looking at vinyl coated cable. Go with stainless. My first hoist had galvanized cable and needed replacing at 10 years. My stainless cable is now over 20 years and has many years of life left and gets cranked in and out over 50 times a year. I have a 2400 pound hoist in fresh water and it uses 1/4" cable. When I made ski booms 20 years ago I bought 3/16" stainless coated to 1/4" by the 1000 foot spool. It was American made and cost me about the same in bulk then as you are seeing now from an offshore supplier.

[Rich Enders]

Galvanizing is a coating process. Galvanized nails when struck with a hammer easily lose their coating and begin to rust early. Wouldn't you expect the same with the flexing of the cable?

[Larry Edgerton]

Galvanizing is a coating process. Galvanized nails when struck with a hammer easily lose their coating and begin to rust early. Wouldn't you expect the same with the flexing of the cable?

Most galvanized nails are hot dipped, and yes prone to failure. Maze nails are electrostatic coated and the coating stays on. I am sure that the cable I have seen is not hot dipped.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Most salty dogs prefer galvanized chain for their anchor rode because stainless has very little stretch- it just snaps. Galvanized can take shock loads better without breaking, with the understanding that after a few hard loads (like riding out a storm on your anchor) it's probably best to replace the chain. The same would likely be true for your cable, i.e. galvanized my be the better choice, as it has more give than stainless.

Please also note that stainless is not really stainless. It forms a protective oxide coat which only works when exposed to oxygen. Where the braids of the strand overlap and air cannot get to it, it still will rust. That's why you will see rust streaks coming from under the heads of stainless fasteners.

On a final note, I would not trust ANY cable from the big box stores. It's all Chinese and not built with the same tolerances. I would buy US, German, Swedish... really anything but Chinese.

[Phil Mueller]

Back when I purchased a new winch, the supplier (Prososki All Care - who deals in hoists and such) said to always use stainless steel cable, specifically 7x19 cable which they said is more flexible. Don't know, didn't need it at the time, but will probably go with that recommendation when I do.

[Myk Rian]

I bought some of that Lowes cable for some weight training machines I was repairing.
The core rusted within 2 years. In a 68º, low humidity room.

[Wade Lippman]

I bought some of that Lowes cable for some weight training machines I was repairing.
The core rusted within 2 years. In a 68º, low humidity room.

The stainless or the galvanized?

[Wade Lippman]

I bought some domestic 316 7x19. More than twice Lowe's price, but hey, it is only 15'...

[Myk Rian]

The stainless or the galvanized?

I believe it was galvanized. It has since been replaced.
The vinyl covering lasted less than 2 years before it started cracking. What junk that was.

[Andy Booth]

Unless you are in a saltwater marine application galvanized wire rope would be a better buy. The zinc coating acts as a lubricant which reduces internal friction when bending. It also offers good corrosion resistance.
Make sure you get a rope suitable for use in a winch that has a bending radius less than the drum on the winch or block.

Do not get vinyl coated rope as the vinyl traps moisture and not as flexible. The vinyl covering deforms as it is bent around a sheeve. Vinyl covered write rope also is harder to terminate safely.
I have seen a number of serious failures due to vinyl covering.

Inspect it for kinks, flat spots and torn strands. Clean off dirt to avoid working it into the strands. Lightly lubricate it to keep rust out.
I always buy wire rope from a reputable source that has purchased rope from a known company. I know it is generally more costly but McMaster is one source I trust.

Saving money by buying cheap wire rope is not a good idea.

Here is one handbook: http://www.simplycircus.com/sites/de...evised0509.pdf
My preference is for The Wire Rope Users Manual, Fourth Edition, It is published by the Wire Rope Technical Board. Unfortunately it is not free.

Andy

[Wade Lippman]

Lightly lubricate it to keep rust out.

Lubricate it?! With what, how often. (freshwater)