Honey Locust Rust

[Brad Adams]

I turned some green Honey Locust tonight, and the sawdust was rusting the lathe ways almost instantly. I turn a lot of green wood, but have never had any other green wood rust the ways this fast. This picture is after fifteen minutes of hollowing. The Johnson's paste wax didn't stand a chance.

IMG_0772.JPG

[Brian Ashton]

Are you sure it's not just staining. I can't see how a metal ways can rust that quickly but I can certainly see how the tannins and such can leach or spray out of wet wood and stain the metal that quickly.

[Mike haines]

I turned some red oak and the same thing happened it is just stained.

[Reed Gray]

Oak and walnut will do the job quicker. My old PM 3520A had a nice even black patina when I sold it. If you try to sand it out, you can leave small waves in the ways. WD 40, Top Coat, or paste wax keep it from pitting.

robo hippy

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Not your imagination and it is rust, just not pitted rust. I always treated my 3520 with a a dose of WD40 rubbed in with synthetic steel wool then coated with paste wax. It is a never ending process, especially, as Robo said, when turning oak, walnut and honey locust. I used to turn with my back to the table saw. I had to cover it to protect it from flying wet chips that would react with the metal table. Don't try to rub out the black, just the brown. The black is "atmosphere".
faust

[Richard Wolgemuth]

Brad, I also turn a lot of wet wood. I have turned quite a bit of black walnut and sure had a little rust but not too bad. Like most guys I just went with WD40 (or the like) and occasionally waxed the bed. I got a new (to me) 3520 and turned a bit of hackberry on it and man alive, it started to rust in minutes. I would spray the bed down and that would help for a while but not very long. I had a can of Bostik Glidecote that I used on my bandsaw/tablesaw beds with great success. I cleaned the lathe bed with steel wool and alcohol to get any rust/wax/oil off. Then spayed a liberal coat, let it set up a little longer than the instructions and buffed the film off the surface (If you use it you will understand). I have had zero problems since. Will I have to reapply? Sure. But it has lasted quite a while and all I ever do now (wet or dry turning) is blow it off with compressed air. Not a bit of rust or staining no matter what I throw at it. Now here is the catch: the stuff is about $20 a can. It lasts a looooooong time and the can goes pretty far and in my mind, the clean up time I save is worth it. You might check it out, it has worked wonders for me. Good luck.

[robert baccus]

After using wd40 in the saltmarshes(duckhunting) I am convinced it is useless as a rust preventive but a good cleaning fluid. I'm still looking for a replacement for Navy brand oils--folded up years ago.

[Steve Huffman]

I believe it to be light surface rust and Blackjack Oak does it too. I use automotive rubbing compound on a rag that cleans it right off, then re-wax the ways.

[Brad Adams]

It was light surface rust, not just stained. I cleaned it off with WD-40 and a scotch brite pad. This time I waxed the ways with some collinite 476 auto wax. We'll see how it holds up. It is an awesome auto wax. I think I'll order a can of the Bostik glide coat.

[Dan Forman]

I use some stuff called "Fluid Film" when turning green wood. It is somewhere in between vaseline and mineral oil in consistency, and comes in a can with a glue brush style of applicator. I dab some on the ways with the brush then smear it around with a paper towel, leaving a thin layer. It serves to protect the surface, as well as allowing the tool rest to slide smoothly. When done, simply wipe off with a rag. It is made from lanolin, contains no solvents. It works better than anything else I have found, though I haven't tried the Glidecoat that Richard mentioned. Traditional waxes have been useless to me on the lathe for rust protection. Here is where I got mine, the 8 oz can. I think it was recommended over the spray by someone here on the creek, but I can't remember why, as it was some time ago. Fluid Film .

Dan

[robert baccus]

Thanks Dan.

[allen thunem]

brad i would suggest using something other than wd 40 on your bed ways
wd 40 attracts moisture

[robert baccus]

Fluid film (good hint) also sells an industrial line of rust/lube products. Think I'll try one.

[David Delo]

I use some stuff called "Fluid Film" when turning green wood. It is somewhere in between vaseline and mineral oil in consistency, and comes in a can with a glue brush style of applicator. I dab some on the ways with the brush then smear it around with a paper towel, leaving a thin layer. It serves to protect the surface, as well as allowing the tool rest to slide smoothly. When done, simply wipe off with a rag. It is made from lanolin, contains no solvents. It works better than anything else I have found, though I haven't tried the Glidecoat that Richard mentioned. Traditional waxes have been useless to me on the lathe for rust protection. Here is where I got mine, the 8 oz can. I think it was recommended over the spray by someone here on the creek, but I can't remember why, as it was some time ago. Fluid Film .


Dan

Tried this Fluid Film stuff today with some wet cherry and it did pass the test. No rust or browning of the bed ways. Boeshield and paste wax haven't been successful for me that much so have to say I'm a happy camper so far. Looking forward to seeing what happens with other species.

[robert baccus]

Fluid Film also carries a commercial line called Cortex. Several products and not cheap but probably worth the costs.