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Thread: How to finish this tripod table base?

  1. #1

    How to finish this tripod table base?

    I'm refinishing a small tripod table. It's not an expensive heirloom piece by any means, but this is a project I'm doing with my Dad, who turns 100 years old next week, (he can still sorta' sand & brush laquer) so this is rather important to me.

    Stupidly, I forgot to take a pic of it before I stripped it, but it had a fairly non-descript mahogany finish. The top is a lovely framed octagonal piece with a niece piece of mahogany veneer. It will be finished dark brown & brush-laquered. (medium gloss) - I'll post a pic of the top soon.

    OK, so the base is some kinda' wood, I know that much! It vaguely resembles actual mahogany, but I think that's only because there's still some residual stain in it. the surface that connects to the top, and was unfinished looks like Poplar, or some such light-brown wood. Luckily, and has a nice tight grain, not unlike actual mahogany:






    It is fairly even in color, but with a few lighter blotches.

    My initial thought is to first do the typical "fake mahogany" schedule: A shellac wash, then a water-based merlot stain, then a brown gel stain so I can even out the blotches.

    - But maybe I should use all dyes instead, to maintain a little of the grain? Or use LESS of something, since there's already some stain in the wood?

    Also, if I use this method, should I end with some kind of clear coat, to semi-match the top, or leave it matte?
    ----------------------------

    OR, would you do something completely different? - FWIW, I do have a spay system, but that's a giant PITA for such a small item, so I'd prefer some kind of hand-applied schedule.

    I'd appreciate any ideas.

    Thanks
    Last edited by Allan Speers; 08-31-2015 at 4:57 AM.

  2. #2
    Here's the top: (obviously not back together yet)

    note: All the blotching is from Dad's first pass with the brushing laquer. I have a lot of sanding to do, but man he really enjoyed "helping" me today! Anyway, this will be getting maybe 4-5 coats, so it should be reasonably glossy.




    I'm not even sure how to finish the framing: Dark and glossy like the table surface, or more like the tripod base? (Or just make EVERYTHING drak & glossy?)

    - And would you glue it back together first, or finish the frame separately and THEN assemble it?
    Last edited by Allan Speers; 08-31-2015 at 4:56 AM.

  3. #3
    Bump.


    I really need some ideas here, folks !

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
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    Finish putting it together, then finish. How you color it is really a personal choice.

    Shellac wash coat then a water stain will not do much since the wood will be sealed. It looks as if the wood may still has old finish in and on it so the stains and dyes are going to be risky. Did you use a chemical stripper to remove the old finish on the frame and legs?
    IF not a gel stain may be the easiest "fix" for the base. I would leave the frame lighter than the tray for contrast.

    Picture looks as though there may be some orange peel to the finish. Is your dad using a brushing lacquer? Make sure he flows it on and doesn't go back over it, lacquer dries quickly and that can cause orange peel and other issues.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  5. #5
    Thanks, Scott.

    Yes, I stripped it TWICE, with methel whatchamacallit. (the nasty stuff) but it still seems to have some stain deep in the pores.

    Yes, tons of orange peel. Like I wrote above, he's turning 100 next week and didn't brush fast enough. It's more important for me to have him "help" with this project than to get a perfect result. (But I can probably sand it out and build up new layers.)

    Leaving the tray (frame) lighter- would you then just apply a clear finish, no oil?

  6. #6
    A fairly typical factory finishing protocol for lighter secondary woods would be a red dye, an oil stain in some sort of brown, then glazes and or toners after seal coats to creep up on a stained mahogany look. The dye on the table base would have to be bleached with chlorine bleach or sanded away, mo stripper including Methylene Chloride will much of it. Laundry beach applied full strength then neutralized with 1 part white vinegar to 1 part distilled water will work. Color blending and matching is never acheived with just slapping on one dye color or one oil stain color.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by ALAN HOLLAR View Post
    A fairly typical factory finishing protocol for lighter secondary woods would be a red dye, an oil stain in some sort of brown, then glazes and or toners after seal coats to creep up on a stained mahogany look. The dye on the table base would have to be bleached with chlorine bleach or sanded away, mo stripper including Methylene Chloride will much of it. Laundry beach applied full strength then neutralized with 1 part white vinegar to 1 part distilled water will work. Color blending and matching is never acheived with just slapping on one dye color or one oil stain color.
    Thanks, Alan.

    Two followups:

    1: As I wrote, the red dye / brown stain was my original thought, and have those items on hand, so I'm good to go there. - But what would you use for a seal coat? The same brushing laquer as I'm using on the top, (assuming I can fix Dad's handiwork) or something less shiny?


    2: If you were me, would you really bleach this first, or could I just apply more red dye, getting more of it in the lighter areas by applying extra layers just in those spots?

  8. #8
    Le bumpe de jour.


    I'm starting the refinish in a few days, hoping for some more opinions & answers to my last post. I REALLY don't want to bleach this first, unless it's truly the only way to get a good result.

    - thanks.
    Last edited by Allan Speers; 09-04-2015 at 2:20 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    I use de-waxed shellac as a sealer. You may want to try the dye on the bottom of the leg to see if it works. If it were in my shop I would probably seal it then use a lacquer based toner (sprayed) to blend the color, top coat and be done.

    The table top and edging will get all the attention.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

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