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Thread: Miter Box: Any Good?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Fargo North Dakota
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    353

    Miter Box: Any Good?

    I saw this miter box on a very popular classified ad site. Would this be any good with a high quality replacement saw from Lie-Nielson or Bad Axe? I know it isn't pre WW2, but would it be a good user?
    My woodworking theory: Measure with a micrometer, Mark with chalk, Cut with an ax.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Sebastopol, California
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    2,319
    No easy way to tell from a picture. I'd look at:

    1. Can the saw carriage be adjusted to grip the saw plate enough to keep it aligned but loosely enough to let it slide (this will be hard to tell with the existing rusty saw, but see what you think)?
    2. How's the verticality of the saw against the bed? Take it over to full right and full left and measure for vertical with a try or combination square (this isn't as accurate as test cuts, but it beats guessing).
    3. How well does the angle adjustment lock, and is there provision for fine tuning? A 45 degree angle often has to be 44 degrees, and some saws won't accommodate anything but certain fixed angles.

    It looks like a cast bed. That's good, but take the saw out and sight the length of the bed to make sure it's not twisted. Some twist can be removed by fastening the saw to a thick, flat base; lots is not a good sign.

    If the price is right (I pay about $15 around here, but not everywhere enjoys such good rates), go for it. Sight the existing saw along its length, top and bottom. If it's bent, use that to argue the price down. And, if it is straight, don't discount the existing saw. The handle's dreadful, but it might well clean and sharpen up to be a pretty decent saw.

  3. #3
    Hi Bryan,

    It is a Sears Craftsman miter box. I bought one about 30 years ago before I knew any better. It works (sort of). The saw is awful and really should have been sent out to be sharpened right after I opened the box. The saw rattles loosely in the guides causing a wobbly kerf, and the height locks are frightful. With a lot of tuning it can be made to work OK, but not really well. Mine resides in storage somewhere in the attic of my barn since I haven't quite been able to bring myself to chuck it.
    Dave Anderson

    Chester, NH

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Putney, Vermont
    Posts
    1,044
    I have a similar miter saw made by Master Mechanic, that I bought at the hardware store about 1988. I have used it to cut 4X4's and put 45* angles on end od 4x4's.
    It is more of a good carpentry tool then a cabinet tool.

  5. #5
    I am still a beginner... But I do have a great miter box that I found locally... 3 of them in fact. I use this same one:
    https://logancabinetshoppe.wordpress...uldnt-pass-up/


    The problem with that one, upgraded with a premium saw is what Bill was saying... Without adjustability in how the carriage grips the saw back, you won't ensure that it will cut clean... in which case, you are most likely better off just using a bench hook...

    Again, I preface all of my advise by saying I am new to all of this, but I have experienced this specific thing.
    Last edited by Nick Stokes; 09-04-2015 at 10:44 AM. Reason: add a link

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Edwardsville, IL.
    Posts
    1,673
    If nothing else, clean it up, tune it up, and if it is still not worth a darn, sell it or throw it out. Live and learn. The next time you will know what to look for. Best wishes.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    south jersey
    Posts
    355
    ive had one for years. it doesn't pretend to be a fine woodworking tool. it is what it is...carpenters tool.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Edwardsville, IL.
    Posts
    1,673
    Well put, indeed.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Fargo North Dakota
    Posts
    353
    Thanks for the responses. The seller was asking $10 for it. I knew the saws weren't the greatest, but I was wondering if the miter box itself wasn't very good. I will pass on this one because it will cost more to go get it than it's worth too. Hopefully an older one shows up for that price.
    My woodworking theory: Measure with a micrometer, Mark with chalk, Cut with an ax.

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