Plane comparisons by brand

[Aaron Conway]

Hi all,

I'm getting back into woodworking after some time away. I want to pick up a low angle block plane and have searched online for any comparisons of the quality or differences of say a Stanley, Wood River or Lie-Nielsen and can't find anything. Of everything I've read, I don't seem to see too much bad about any of them. Does it just boil down to preference i.e. Ford vs Chevy?

Thanks,

Aaron

[Jim Koepke]

Was Lee Valley left of the list as an oversight?

My low angle block planes include four old Stanley models and one Lie-Nielsen. The L-N is quite a bit heavier, with a better blade and more precise adjustment.

jtk

[Mike Henderson]

Hi all,

I'm getting back into woodworking after some time away. I want to pick up a low angle block plane and have searched online for any comparisons of the quality or differences of say a Stanley, Wood River or Lie-Nielsen and can't find anything. Of everything I've read, I don't seem to see too much bad about any of them. Does it just boil down to preference i.e. Ford vs Chevy?

Thanks,

Aaron

The biggest difference between most low angle block planes is the iron. I have a number of older Stanley low angle block planes and a LN low angle. My preference is the Stanley 65 knuckle cap plane with a LV PM-V11 iron.

But planes are personal, meaning that what you like may not be my first choice. And that's okay.

Mike

[Jim Koepke]

But planes are personal, meaning that what you like may not be my first choice. And that's okay.

+1 on that.

If possible try to get each plane into your hands before buying.

jtk

[Tom Blank]

Fine Woodworking did a review of a dozen or so block planes a couple of years ago.

TB

[paul cottingham]

Buy a good one. I'm a hardcore LV fan, but if I were to buy a blockplane again, it would be the LN.

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi all,

I'm getting back into woodworking after some time away. I want to pick up a low angle block plane and have searched online for any comparisons of the quality or differences of say a Stanley, Wood River or Lie-Nielsen and can't find anything. Of everything I've read, I don't seem to see too much bad about any of them. Does it just boil down to preference i.e. Ford vs Chevy?

Thanks,

Aaron

Well, it might be Ford, Chevy and Fiat if you include a new Stanley. It took some tuning to make my Stanley block work as well as it does, but after that it's been just fine. I havent used the WR block, but I've tried and like their bench planes. So I think Mr. Koepke's got it right - take them to hand and see what suits.

I LOVE my LN 102 for its small size.
Fred

[Derek Cohen]

I want to pick up a low angle block plane and have searched online for any comparisons of the quality or differences of say a Stanley, Wood River or Lie-Nielsen and can't find anything. Of everything I've read, I don't seem to see too much bad about any of them. Does it just boil down to preference i.e. Ford vs Chevy?

Hi Aaron

This is a review of the LV block planes, but includes a comparison of these ..



Veritas and Lie-Nielsen

Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...lockPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Aaron Conway]

Thanks all for the info. Tom, thanks for that tip on the Fine WW review. I found it and reading now...I skipped to the end for a quick peak and they have it down to the Veritas and LN.

I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.

Thanks,

Aaron

[Prashun Patel]

If you can afford them, then IMHO then the best choices are LN or Veritas (which is actually Lee Valley's brand of premium planes. Beware, because not ALL the planes/tools they sell are Veritas. The quality on some of those are hit or miss). There are even more premium, boutique planes available, but for everyday use, it's hard to beat Veritas or Lie-Nielsen for value.

In LA Blocks, you'll have a few to choose from:

Veritas Apron (fixed mouth)
Veritas Low angle Block (adj mouth)
LN 102 (fixed mouth)
LN 60 1/2 (adj mouth)
LN 60 1/2R (adj mouth + rabbeting block)

In the end, I believe a block plane is best TRIED. It's a highly personal choice. I've used all of the above and for my work and hands I like the LN102 currently for its small size. Some people swear by the larger, adjustables. Still others love a rabbeting block for its versatility.

I can say this: If you buy any of the above 5 planes and do not like them, you may be able to return them if you have not sullied them at all, or at least you'll be able to sell them close to what you paid for them.

All 5 are of superb quality.

If your next question is 'what's the difference between Lie Nielsen and Lee Valley?', I'll say this: Both are fantastic companies with firm commitments to high quality tools and making customers happy. LN tends to stick to traditional designs but makes them with the highest quality materials and machining. LV tends to tweak traditional designs to make them even better in terms of ergonomics or convenience. Often, the choice between the two comes down to aesthetic preferences.

[Mike Holbrook]

The two large plane manufacturers mentioned both make quality products as other posters have mentioned and some of the other manufacturers are making better products too. The used plane market has gotten harder to find bargains in unless you can find a good local flea market to shop at. Still there are good values out there that can be put into service in a hurry.

Block planes are great, I was just using mine to relieve the corners on a saw bench. Block planes are at the edge of a steep cliff though and may or may not be the place to start. It might help if you informed other posters what work you plan to do with planes in the near future. The actual work will effect what will work best for you.

David Weaver has a a YouTube video in which he takes a #4 Stanley fresh off that auction site and gets it making fine shavings in I think under 15 minuets. I mention this because sometimes we more compulsive posters can add steps and make the process longer than it has to be for a basic tool. As Mike Henderson mentions above you can tune up a Stanley, add a LV made blade and have a very nice plane. Sometimes a well used auction plane will not have much blade left. There are those who are perfectly happy with standard Stanley blades though, which are also available at auction. Much depends on whether you prefer to sharpen more for shorter amounts of time or less often but for longer. Harder/tougher blades dull slower but typically take longer to sharpen. Your decision may depend on what type sharpening system you use. Modern A2, PMV-11 blades can be a challenge to sharpen if you do not have the abrasive system to work it relatively quickly. I think you will find sharpening to be a key element in how well any type plane will work for you.

It is good to try different types of planes out. You may want to pay attention to which blade adjustment/removal system you find easiest to use. It took me a while to get use to the somewhat more touchy adjustments on old Stanley planes, before I discovered SMC and videos like David Weaver's, but once I got use to them I can adjust one just about as fast as a new LV. Handles are important but some planes offer options. There are even guys making handles for old Stanley planes. The older LV/Veritas block planes offer an add on wood handle. Of course wood handles can be changed too. The other factor I will mention is weight distribution. INMHO (in my humble opinion) LV/Veritas LA planes tend to have lower centers of gravity, particularly compared to whole number Stanley planes. If you like the center of gravity more toward the middle you can try a 4 1/2 or 5 1/2 Stanley. You might even find a #3 Stanley out there which is even closer to a block plane. The good news is most people can adapt to any of the major plane types. Good luck navigating this slippery slope.

[Daniel Rode]

I got some here advice early on that has saved me a ton of work. Don't make any changes unless you have to. David's video is good example of that. Many a plane sole has been ruined by unneeded attempts to flatten.

Some things will need work to get them back in service, but many need no more than a sharpening.

David Weaver has a a YouTube video in which he takes a #4 Stanley fresh off that auction site and gets it making fine shavings in I think under 15 minuets. I mention this because sometimes we more compulsive posters can add steps and make the process longer than it has to be for a basic tool.

[Reinis Kanders]

For me the key was to start using hammer for fine lateral adjustments in both block and bench planes.
Actually hammers or taps are the best adjusters for everything

[Aaron Conway]

My projects tend to vary quite a bit. I recently made three different birdhouses for my wife to paint and I'm just finishing up two 48"L window boxes. Hope to have them painted and hung by the end of the weekend. Next is a sofa/hall table made using an antique sewing machine base. Before I start that though I'm going to practice making hand cut dovetails. While at Woodcraft last week, I bought a Veritas dovetail saw, dovetail saddle, dual marking gauge and marking knife. Having said that, I think I've decided on the LN #102 plane.

Thanks again for all the info.

Aaron