15" Walnut Platter with spiral edge

[Pat Scott]

This is a 15" Black Walnut platter that I tried out a couple of new tools and techniques on.

The first new technique is what catches your eye right away - the scalloped edge. A few years ago I saw a video that Mick Hanbury from the UK did. In that video he used the Robert Sorby spiraling tool to create a spiral edge on a platter. I liked the looks and finally bought a spiraling tool. This was the 3rd piece I tried it out on. I used the largest spiraling wheel, and I think next time I'll try the medium as it might be easier to cut the spirals. There was tearout in the end grain as expected, so some tedious sanding was required.

The 2nd thing is nothing fancy. I got a couple of different sized beading tools from D-Way Tools so wanted to play with them too. I used a 3/16" beading tool to create the bead that separates the rim from the center. I like the tool!

Next was a couple things on the back. I usually make a small recess on my platters, but Mick used a dovetail sized for his jaws, and he disguised the dovetail as a bead. What appealed to me about this technique is you can completely finish the bottom before turning it around to do the front. I mean you can finish sand, do any details, and even apply a finish if desired. Usually when I make a recess, after completing the front I have to turn it around again and put it on my vacuum chuck to finish the foot. This is when I remove the dovetail, finish sand, etc. Doing it Micks way saves a step. I made a bead sized to fit my 7" Vicmarc jaws, and it's small enough that you can't see that part of the bead is actually a dovetail unless you look real close.

I had a shallow cove to the outside of the dovetail so there wouldn't be any wood that interfered with the jaws. I was spending way too much time sanding the cove and trying to get rid of all the sanding scratches as Walnut is notorious for. That's when it dawned on me that I should texture it to hide any sanding scratches. I whipped out my Henry Taylor Elf decorating tool and gave it a go. Boy do I like the look! It's an extra detail that you aren't expecting when you look at the bottom.

All in all, I think I just found my new "signature" foot for platters. I liked using a dovetail bead so I could completely finish the bottom before doing the front. It was a nice feeling to finish the front and be done! I also like what the Elf adds to the bottom. It really only takes a minute or two more, but I think it adds a nice extra touch.

The finish is several coats of Danish Oil. C & C welcome.

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[gary arnold]

Very nice.

I hope some day to be worty of creative bowl designs.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Beautiful work Pat! First time I have seen a scalloped edge on a platter and it works nicely! You paid attention to the little details and this platter is one to be proud of! Thanks for sharing!

[John Grace]

That is a wonderfully done piece...great details and well photographed. I too have the Sorby texturing tool but have not had the same results as you have...perhaps it's time I revisit and give it another try. That scalloped like edge is fantastic.

[daryl moses]

Very unique, I like it a lot!!

[Bob Bergstrom]

You have a real winner there. The scallop edge makes it special. The extra sanding was worth the results. The spiral on the bottom just makes a very pleasant surprise!

[Dennis Peacock]

Nicely done and very tasteful I might add.

[Pat Scott]

Thanks everyone for the comments. I'm real happy with how it turned out, much better than thought it would. The question now is to see if I can get the same results when I try another one!

[Thom Sturgill]

I like this piece, but mostly for the bottom. That is a really nice surprise. I liked the rim of you other posting where the spiral were on top better than I do on the edge of the rim.

[Doug Herzberg]

Pat, I like it a lot. I don't remember the other piece Thom mentioned, but I like the scalloped edge. It invoked memories of production pieces from the 19th and early 20th century. The only thing that bothers me is the transition from the flat rim to the scallop. I don't like the sharp edge, even though it looks like it was hard to achieve. Finishing the back the first time around is genius and I appreciate you sharing these ideas. Did the chuck leave any marks on the tenon?

I'm a little troubled to see leaves on the grass. Has Fall come to your neighborhood? I don't like that.

[Pat Scott]

Doug here's the other thread that Thom is referring to: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...piralling-tool

So you think I should round the edge of the rim a little? I can try that, I think I was afraid if I rounded it that it would change the look of the scallop. But maybe if it was softened just a bit...

Man we've had leaves on the ground for weeks! Seems real early this year too. I really need to rake them up today.

[Doug Herzberg]

Doug here's the other thread that Thom is referring to: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...piralling-tool

So you think I should round the edge of the rim a little? I can try that, I think I was afraid if I rounded it that it would change the look of the scallop. But maybe if it was softened just a bit...

Man we've had leaves on the ground for weeks! Seems real early this year too. I really need to rake them up today.

My dad always said if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I think it looks great and I was just wondering if softening the edge would improve it. It is very clean now and rounding it over might muck it up.

The first photo, which is closest to straight down, reminded me of those scallops we used to cut back in the 60's with a sabre saw on a trim board for a cabinet over a kitchen sink, or range if there was no range hood. I'm pretty tired of that look in cabinet work, so it was just an uncomfortable flashback.

We mostly have conifers here in the Black Forest and they seem to drop needles all the time. My Colorado Springs trees haven't changed, but they may me one or two climate zones behind Denver. If we get as much snow as we've had rain, it's going to be a tough winter.