Crosscut thick slab

[Russell Stanton]

Thanks for all the quick replies. We will first try to rent a larger circular saw if that cannot be done then we will cut as deep as possible with our saw (I have an E-Z guide so I can get a straight square cut). The use a hand saw to show the kerf on the opposite side, then clamp up the E-Z Guide and cut from that side. It will be awhile before we do this since we are flattening with hand planes.

[lowell holmes]

I agree with Joe and Roy, a handsaw is the way to go. If you don't have a sharp one, several guys that post on the Neanderthal site can help you get one. I might even loan you one of mine.

[Erik Christensen]

use one of these

[Prashun Patel]

I had to do this on a live edge dining table I made this winter. I used a circular saw set to max depth and then finished with a hand saw. I used a block plane to clean up the end grain and blend the cut line flat. It was simple. If you do not own a block plane, I am certain your random orbital sander will make super quick work of it.

I would caution against using a jig saw unless you have an awesome one. Every time I've tried to cut slabs with a jig saw, it's resulted in a tilted cut. IMHO, the blade really needs good support or a lot of power to ride true and vertical. My jigsaw fails on both counts.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Sounds like you have hand planes... so I'll cast a vote for cutting as deep as possible with your circular saw, finishing the cut with a hand saw, and then trueing it up with a hand plane (or a router with a pattern bit as suggested).

But I guess renting a big circular saw would be easiest if you are okay with spending a few bucks.

[Matt Day]

Obviously do as you'd like, but personally I cant see why you wouldn't use the tools you have to get it done rather than rent. Part of what I like about ww'ing is problem solving.

[Brian Holcombe]

I cut these until I run out of depth with a festool 55, then finish the cut by hand. Further finish the end grain with a hand plane (usually a #7 plane and a suuuuuuuper sharp blade).

[Allan Speers]

Thanks for all the quick replies. We will first try to rent a larger circular saw if that cannot be done then we will cut as deep as possible with our saw (I have an E-Z guide so I can get a straight square cut). The use a hand saw to show the kerf on the opposite side, then clamp up the E-Z Guide and cut from that side. It will be awhile before we do this since we are flattening with hand planes.

The only problem with cutting from both sides, if you are trying to get as close to a finished edge as possible, it that you first have to have both faces DEAD-parallel to each other. Otherwise, the two cuts won't end up as one continuous cut, even with the EZ rail. (been there, done that.... ) If you can first run that stock through a planer, then no problem, but I'm assuming you don't own a 40" wide planer.

I also think using a hand saw to finish is the way to go, though the kerf will likely be different and so you'll still probably have to do a little hand-planing afterwards. - If you don't own a good low angle block plane, now's the time to get one!

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If you're dead-set on renting a bigger saw, I recommend the Makita 5104. Freehand, it will cut 3 3/4". Compared to all the other 10" saws under $1,000, it is incredibly precise. Saws made for cutting timbers typically don't have tight arbors or stiff frames. The 5104 also has relatively low noise and high torque, due to it's lower speed.

You might consider actually buying one, as it will fit on the medium sized Moduni base with no hassles, and still cut 2 7/8". It will even "almost" cut 2" stock at 45 degrees. (leaving a 1/8" strip for your handsaw.) I use one now on my EZ-ONE bench, and keep my old 7" Hilti for breaking down plywood.