Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 23 of 23

Thread: Biesemeyer Fence Out of Square Vertically

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    Now you can finally blame all those less than perfect cuts on something!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Villa Park. CA
    Posts
    13,074
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Now you can finally blame all those less than perfect cuts on something!
    You're right! But what do I do once I fix it? I'll have to find some other excuse

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  3. #18
    you got a good one, mine isnt square to the table or even straight over its length, I had to file it years back to make it reasonably straight. will be gone when I have more time or if i keep that saw ill just make my own

  4. #19
    Biese fences were made with ordinary 2 X 3 tubing. It wasn't ground flat. So some were out of square to table, some bent over their length, and for the lucky ones, both. Removing faces and shimming solves both problems.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Villa Park. CA
    Posts
    13,074
    Well, the winner is Lee Schierer and the UHMW tape. I received the tape today and applied 8 layers on the right side - and it brought the left side up to square. The right side of the fence is still out but I never use that side.

    Now, I just have to see if the tape survives usage over time. I think it will.

    Thank you to everyone who posted suggestions.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    2,286
    I had this problem on my Biesemeyer. Use a heat gun and gently remove the plastic laminate from one or both faces. Remove the sheet metal screws, remove the plywood faces, then shim the plywood with masking tape along its length until square with the table. Reattach the plywood faces with the sheet metal screws and then reattach the laminate with contact cement. Worked great for me.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    I used a caliper to measure the thickness of the plastic pad and the metal "T". I couldn't measure the plastic by itself. Here's one side (the right side).
    Attachment 321356

    It's a bit more than 1/64" less than 3/8". Now, the other side.
    Attachment 321355

    Exactly the same. If they wore, they wore the same.

    So to fix the problem, I made a piece that I attached to the side of the fence with some clamps that LV had for sale. I cut the plywood at a slight angle, to offset the angle of the side of the Biesemeyer fence.
    Attachment 321357

    You can see that it's now square.
    Attachment 321358

    I imagine it was like that from new and I never noticed it until now. No sense in contacting Biesemeyer because Delta bought them some time back.

    Mike
    Last edited by Jason White; 09-17-2015 at 10:12 AM.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Villa Park. CA
    Posts
    13,074
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason White View Post
    I had this problem on my Biesemeyer. Use a heat gun and remove the plastic laminate from one or both faces. Loosen the nuts, remove the plywood, then shim the plywood with masking tape along its length until square with the table. Then get some contact cement and reattach the laminate faces. Worked great for me.
    Thanks for your suggestion, Jason. The UHMW tape was a lot easier. If it doesn't hold up over time, I'll try doing what you suggest.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,647
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    Thanks for your suggestion, Jason. The UHMW tape was a lot easier. If it doesn't hold up over time, I'll try doing what you suggest.

    Mike
    The miter slots on my TS are about .005" wider than my miter gauge bars. I was able to put some .003 thick UHMW tape along the side of my miter bars to remove the slop. It lasts for years and is easy to replace if it does get messed up. The bonus is the miter gauge slides like it was just waxed with no side to side movement.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •