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Thread: Shellac - Yellow, Black, Kusmi, Dark Jethwa…. ?

  1. #1

    Shellac - Yellow, Black, Kusmi, Dark Jethwa…. ?

    In the last year, I’ve become quite a believer in shellac. (“Shellac - the duct tape of finishes.”) So far I’ve mostly brushed it on, as HVLP systems such as I have can create too much heat. Plus, brushing is easier for small & quick projects.

    While googling for tech tips, I discovered the retailer “Shellac.net.
    Here’s the url, if the mods will allow it:
    http://www.shellac.net/Shellac_ordering_list.html

    Holy moley, I’m more than a little overwhelmed at all the choices!
    Lemon Yellow, Black, Beige, Ruby, Dark Seed, Kusmi Seed, Dark Jethwa, Button, machine-made Gossamer…… My head is exploding.


    Does anyone have experience with this company, and all (or some) of these unusual shellacs?
    ————————

    Also, is their “190 proof” DNA really more pure than the stuff sold by Home Despot? - If so, does this actually make a difference?

    - And how does Bekhol differ from good DNA? Does it have retardents added?

    ————————

    Last: What the heck is Qualasole? I actually have a jar of this stuff, from about 10 years ago, but I forget why I bought it. Reading the product description, I still have no idea.
    Last edited by Allan Speers; 09-30-2015 at 3:08 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Hi Allen, I haven't bought from shellac.net but thanks for the heads up.I still have a good supply from Malcome at the shellac shack.
    Im not a expert on the denatured alcohol but my take is DNA has some pretty nasty stuff in it.So breathing it is not very good for us.Plus I heard it has or attracts water more so than lets say ever clear 190.
    Myself I use DNA I keep it off my skin and use fans when I brush large areas.Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    Hey, Andrew.

    Re the DNA, I wasn't even thinking about a possible lesser health-hazard, but that's a good point.
    So now I want to know more, if this is really so. The Borg stuff is much less expensive, but those fumes are indeed very dangerous.

    Say - Couldn't one use pure alcohol instead? Or at least medical isopropol?
    Last edited by Allan Speers; 09-30-2015 at 1:44 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    New Hampshire, USA
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    Hi Alan
    I sometimes use button and seed lac. The seed lac still has wax in it, so you need to take an extra step to de-wax it, which is not a problem. Its darker than more refined shellacs like "blonde", but I also think its a bit more durable. I mostly use Everclear for the health reasons you point out. It is expensive compared to DNA, but a bottle lasts me a fairly long time.

  5. #5
    Thanks, Scott.

    I assume you mean the 190 proof everclear, yes? That still has some water in it. This is not a problem?
    Also, where do you buy the stuff? It's really hard to find.

    BTW - Everclear is also a pretty good rock band! (If you're into that teenage pop stuff.)

    -----------------------------

    So has anyone tried those "Black" shellac flakes? I may have to buy a pound just to find out what it's like. From their description:

    "• On Light toned woods, the First coat yields a rich medium Cordovan (Bluish-Red) Mahogany.
    • A second Coat is Deeper & Dark Cordovan toned Black.
    • The third coat yields the BLACK with a shadowed hint of a DEEP Blackish-Purple tone."

    That's pretty intriguing. Among other things, I'm wondering if it obscures the grain very much. I'm very interested in trying this on Maple, instead of some kind of ebonizing process.
    Last edited by Allan Speers; 09-30-2015 at 6:51 PM.

  6. #6
    You can keep it simple by using dewaxed flakes. I used to get blonde and garnet and use them In Various combinations. Now I just use blonde as I find all other colors too orangey and unnatural. Ymmv.

    Also hvlp does not generate too much heat. In fact it is an easy way to a flawless shellac finish as it is easy to apply ultra thin coats.

    Imho Dna is fine for shellac flakes

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Also hvlp does not generate too much heat. In fact it is an easy way to a flawless shellac finish as it is easy to apply ultra thin coats.
    Good to know it works for your system. However, several threads both here & elsewhere have reports of shellac blushing or bubbling when applied with HVLP, due to the heat. I guess it depends on the specific system, length of hose, etc. Maybe I'll experiment with mine.

    Prashun, what spray system are you using, and what length hose?
    Last edited by Allan Speers; 09-30-2015 at 8:38 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    New Hampshire, USA
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    240
    Hi Allan
    Yes, its the 190 proof stuff. I have to get the liquor store to order it for me. I have never had any problems with the water thats in there. I know ethyl alcohol picks up water from the atmosphere naturally, but I am not sure what the equilibrium water percentage is at typical humidity levels. I am guessing a couple percent, but others might know the real number.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    WNY
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    I keep it super simple. I use Sealcoat shellac and add Transtint dye to it to make any color I want. I don't have to fool around dissolving and filtering or thinking about this or that solvent. When I want to cut it I use DNA. If you are really worried about what's in it, wear a respirator with organics cartridges when using it. I use an HVLP conversion gun and it lays down a beautiful film with shellac.

    John

  10. #10
    I spray it with a cheap woodcraft hvlp and with a Fuji semipro. My hose is 25 feet.

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