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Thread: MM FS41 Elite S J/P with hand crank?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Southeastern PA
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    MM FS41 Elite S J/P with hand crank?

    To all Minimax J/P owners out there, I need your opinion. I'm in the last stages of buying an FS 41 Elite S. The height adjustment for the planer table is a hand crank instead of electric. For those of you who use the Minimax and have experience with this, how much of a pain do you think the hand crank is? I know that the MM design means you don't have to lower the table as much as you would for other brands, but is it really a pain or no big deal from your experience?

    Any thoughts are welcomed. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    It's sort of a pain but not horrible on my FS 41 Elite.

    If you've got the extra money, the power height adjustment is a pretty nice thing to have.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Lexington, KY
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    It is what it is, not much to add. I have an FS-30, and it has to be lowered to 6 inches in order for the dust shroud to clear. So you normally have to crank about 4.5 inches or so to get to your target area. Takes about 20 seconds. I wish it went a bit faster, but that would come at the cost of less ability to fine-tune your depth of cut I suppose. It's not physically hard to crank, just takes time.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    I dunno what the cost adder is but as a hobbyist, the hand crank is fine albeit a tad slow but I'm not in a hurry.

    There are times when it is annoying but I get over it.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Edmonton, Canada
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    You have to bring it down almost completely for the DC hood of the planer to clear for the tables to go back on.
    It's about 30 seconds or so, not a big deal. I uppose I could remove the handwheel and use a drill/driver with a proper tip to do it faster but I don't do it very often to justify.
    To have the power lift is nice but I compare it to power windows in cars vs. hand crank...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    Southwestern CT
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    I have a similar machine with a crank. It takes very little time (perhaps 15 seconds?) to lift up the jointer table, flip dust collection hood into position, swap dust collection hose, and crank up (or down) to the necessary height. Mine has the shown analog height indicator (accurate to hundredths ... interpolated to perhaps 1/200th of an inch) which I've found is very accurate and holds its setting well. It allows quickly "dialing in" a repeat setting, and without which it would be very difficult to use the planer.

    I think the FS41 has a fixed hood for both Jointer and Planer so that should speed things up. I watched a video of the powered lift, and came away thinking my manual crank is considerably faster.
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    Last edited by Bill Adamsen; 09-30-2015 at 4:25 PM.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  7. #7
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    Dec 2003
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    Bill, the FS41 has two hoods...one for each operation so one must switch over the dust hose as well. That adds a bit of time to the process.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  8. #8
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    I was told it's just one hood on the FS41 Elite S. It's just a cover to flip over when going from jointer to planer. The dust port stays in place. That's what Erik told me when advising me on it.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    I don't find it to be a pain at all...and many folks who want to make the big adjustment for conversion between functions have found a way to rig up an electric drill to do the deed. (I have an FS350, but it works the same way for this as the FS41) Having a built-in electric height adjustment would likely raise the price of the machine in an unattractive way.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    i put a small cheap stepper motor and a controller on my fs-41 for > $150 the cheap board i used has up down and speed programmed onto the board it so you just run a regular switch with a few jumpers and a pot for speed control shits extremely accurate with a dr0.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Koons View Post
    I was told it's just one hood on the FS41 Elite S. It's just a cover to flip over when going from jointer to planer. The dust port stays in place. That's what Erik told me when advising me on it.
    I think it is the same as my FS350. The DC port for the jointer mode is attached to the infeed bed, there is a flip-over port for the planer mode that you have to bring over the top of cutter head in the planer mode. For that to be flipped back down (to go to jointer mode) you need to lower the table or it will hit the table.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Right. But you either need to move the air duct from planer mode to jointer mode or have two ducts hooked up. I just move a single duct between the two. Now the connection point for either hood is on the same side of the J/P so that is nice.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    283
    Quote Originally Posted by David T gray View Post
    i put a small cheap stepper motor and a controller on my fs-41 for > $150 the cheap board i used has up down and speed programmed onto the board it so you just run a regular switch with a few jumpers and a pot for speed control shits extremely accurate with a dr0.
    That's awesome! How fast does the table move? Do you have any pics, and would you mind sharing some more specific details? Sounds like fun to build something like that, unfortunately I don't have an intuitive knack for electrical design. I can follow instructions but can't design a circuit on my own.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Helensburgh, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T gray View Post
    i put a small cheap stepper motor and a controller on my fs-41 for > $150 the cheap board i used has up down and speed programmed onto the board it so you just run a regular switch with a few jumpers and a pot for speed control shits extremely accurate with a dr0.
    Details would be much appreciated as I wanted to do the same thing to my Hammer A3-31 and and I am a total electronic dunce.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  15. #15
    i am away right now but i can take pics when i get back in a few weeks


    you could use like

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Single-A...-/281681756844

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NEMA-23-...item1a02cab294 idk if this is powerful enough or not i had a >1000oz motor i wasn't using for it

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/200W-36V-5-5...item3cf74f7556

    https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electr...ut#prettyPhoto

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pc-TEMCo-...item4181fc2507

    then u just need a coupler and some momentary on switches i used brushed alu ones and made it look pretty. im sure i forgot something but that seems like all the big stuff the wiring is super easy u should be able to find a guide for it and be wired up in under a hour .

    thats >200 and nothing is from china so no long waits u could save 40 0r so and use a breakout board from ebay but i didn't add one b/c i haven't used one

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