Cherry Table Top Durability

[Anthony Brown]

I am looking to make a kitchen/dining table out of 8/4 Cherry (the finished thickness will actually be 8/4, not 7/4 or 6/4). We were originally looking at Hickory or Walnut, but Hickory is not available in 8/4 without gluing up, which I really don't want, and the Walnut is ridiculously expensive. I realize that the Janka hardness difference between Cherry and Walnut is basically nonexistent, but I would have asked this question about the Walnut as well had we gone that route. The Hickory is a non-issue, as I know it's plenty durable enough.

I just want to know if the experts on here feel that an 8/4 Cherry table top will be durable enough for day-to-day dining? I do have 3 kids, but my youngest is 7, and all of my kids are past that stage where they will be stabbing the table with forks, banging stuff on it, etc... I am sure the table will get a little "abuse" and some spills, but I kind of feel that tables take a bit less of a beating than most people think they do.

Another limiting factor for me is that it's really tough to find a good hardwood in a true 8/4 where I live (Metro Detroit, MI). Most places want to glue up 2 4/4's, but that's more expensive and then I have the task of having to veneer to hide the glue lines that I don't want to see.

What is the opinion of everyone on here? Any help given is much appreciated.

Thanks!

[Jamie Buxton]

Cherry will be plenty strong. One good thing about making the piece from solid lumber is that if it does get beat up, you can always sand it down and re-varnish it.

[Randy Red Bemont]

Cherry will be fine for the top. As for the nicks and dings, that is character. It gives the table a little history. 8/4 will give your table a chunky look if that's what your going for. Don't forget the cherry will darken so don't leave place mats and so forth on it especially when it is new. Good luck. Sounds like a fun build.

Red

[ALAN HOLLAR]

My father built a cherry drop leaf table for my wife and me for our 1st anniversary. I finished it with a urethane lacquer from Chemical Coatings, and we used it every day for 25 years, then passed it on to our son who is using it today. The only issue is some slight rust on the hinges.

[David Hawxhurst]

i can get 8/4 rough hickory around me. my sister has a cherry dining table, she got it about 5 yrs ago and seems to be doing just fine. they finished it with pure tung oil, still not convinced this was the best finish choice but seems to be working for them. so our finish thickness will be 2" which is pretty thick, you're probably looking to buy 10/4 to start with.

[John TenEyck]

2" thick. Wow, that will be one heavy beast and a waste of wood IMO. Why not make it from 5/4 stock, double it along the sides to get your 2", and then attach 2" breadboard ends. It would use a lot less wood and be a far easier to move around in the shop.

John

[Prashun Patel]

Your kids are not past the worst of their damaging phase: the biggest damage my kids do to my cherry kitchen table is with pencils and pens. "Engraved grafitti" doesn't have the same quaint charm that fork and knife dings have. So, be prepared for that.

Think hard about your choice of 8/4. It'll be trickier to flatten and work with than thinner stock. Also, take a good look at pictures with 8/4 tables and be sure you are after that massive look.

[Anthony Brown]

WOW! Thanks for all of the replies guys. Yeah, I have done a ton of research and we definitely like the thicker look of 7/4 or 8/4 tables. I realize it will be heavy, but that is the look that we both like. As far as homework, we already have that covered, the kids will have desks that they can use when it comes time to get homework done so the table doesn't get unnecessarily marked up.

So from what I gather is that the Cherry durability seems to be mostly a non-issue, it's more the thickness that people are concerned about?

We really have our hearts set on at least 7/4 or 8/4 lumber, as we do like that thick look. Our only other option for solid lumber is 4/4 which I feel is just too thin for the look we want to achieve.

[Mike Ontko]

"Engraved grafitti" doesn't have the same quaint charm that fork and knife dings have.

That's priceless, Prashun

I currently have a commercially-built dining table (Scan Design) with a cherry veneer top that's holding up pretty well, though it doesn't get nearly the same kind of wear and tear that you're going to be experiencing for the next few years (we're empty nesters with "kids" that are at or past college age).

Part of the durabilty you're looking for will come from the finish that's applied. For example, a combination of a shellac sealer and poly top coat will hold up much better then an oil and wax combination for the kind of use and abuse you can expect.

Back to the issue of wood hardness...during the kid's formative years, we had a simple rectangular white oak dining table with a center leaf insert. It was finished with a very light amber stain or shellac, top coated with semi-gloss poly of some sort. It was super durable and resisted almost everything but water rings and burns. Never a mark from color crayons, finger paints, water based markers, and Play Doh!

p.s. the thickness you're looking for doesn't have to come from solid 8/4 construction. If you look at the picture I'd linked to, what appears to be a 1-1/2" top is really a 1/4" veneer strip that's glued at a mitered angle (and supported with a backing strip) to a 3/4" veneer/ply top. So, if you're creative with edge banding or moldings, you don't necessarily have to build your top from full-thickness lumber.

[Daniel Hartmann]

It sounds like you are planning to buy 8/4 lumber and make the top, rough lumber, and especially cherry, will not necessarily be flat and strait. Just keep that in mind. Cherry especially in longer lengths will have some twist or bow due to the way most cherry trees grow. My kitchen table is cherry and 8' long. I started with 8/4 rough and ended up with 1.25" thick top.

[David Zaret]

anthony, we have a good woodworker's group here in southeast michigan - consider coming to one of the meetings. we can help with sourcing lumber, and general tips and tricks. guys even share shops and such as the need arises. semiww.org is the site.

-- dz

[Mike Schuch]

If it were me I would use 4/4 stock and glue a 2" wide 4/4 thick apron all around the edge. It will give you the look of thickness you want without the weight. I have done several glue ups like this and to me the glue line disappears after your route the edge.

If you did want a full 8/4 thickness for the whole table I would still laminate 2 pieces together. The resulting top will be much more stable and resistant to bowing.

I have considered making a kitchen table out of Ipe... it would be pretty much indestructible not to mention beautiful!

[Jerry Olexa]

Solid cherry top would be excellent and durable..It will mellow with age and darken slightly..great choice!!!!

[Brian Tymchak]

... we definitely like the thicker look of 7/4 or 8/4 tables. I realize it will be heavy, but that is the look that we both like. ...

We really have our hearts set on at least 7/4 or 8/4 lumber, as we do like that thick look.

Anthony, it seems that the look is what you are most interested in. So just to echo what John and Prashun have said.. that thicker look can be attained without the extra cost, extra weight, and extra work of actually using 8/4 lumber. But, having said that, if your heart is set on having a 1 3/4" thick top, go for it.

[Anthony Brown]

It seems like most are more a proponent of gluing up pieces rather than going the solid route. If that's the case, my wife really wanted Hickory and I can go to a local place here and get a bunch of straight pre-planed S4S pieces that are .75" and glue them up to get to 6/4. Would that be the better route to go? I already calculated the cost and it's not going to be too bad.

My biggest issue is not wanting to see the glue line. No matter how faint it is, I am pretty picky and I'd want to veneer it. With the table look we are going for, I don't want a thick band all the way around the table covering the glue line, only a thin veneer if I have to go that route.

An example of what we are kind of trying to achieve is below. Throw the thickness of the table below out the window, just focus on the style and construction. That is similar to what we want.

http://images.custommade.com/QwmfIcp...805.151537.jpg

BTW, the overwhelming amount of replies and help so far is greatly appreciated. You guys are great and are helping me a lot!