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Thread: faceplates, are grizzley faceplates decent? or look into another brand?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Midland MI
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    faceplates, are grizzley faceplates decent? or look into another brand?

    My new lathe didn't come with a faceplate, I would like to buy one, I am looking at grizzleys offerings seem decent and a good price, do they work well? is there anything better for not much more money, I would like a 6 inch, and probably a 4in, maybe a 3 inch depending on cost. a plus with grizzley is I need a spacer (1" id 1/2 thick, od not important maybe 1 1/2) and I grizzley has one, but shipping is crazy, buy it with faceplates save money, if you have a better faceplate idea let me know.

    spacer -if you have a better source let me know
    http://www.grizzly.com/products/Spac...-x-1-2-H/W1171

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/Cast...-x-8-TPI/H7821

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/Aluminum-Faceplate-4-x-1-x-8-TPI/H6436

    this faceplate looks nice, but it's 30 vs 20$ is it worth the difference?

    https://www.pennstateind.com/store/CF6.html

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Valparaiso In
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    156
    If a 5/8" thick spacer will work, you can use a 1" shaft collar. Amazon has them for less than 2 dollars.

    I would suggest that you buy a spindle adaptor and use the faceplates you have now. Someone mentioned problems with increased runout, but that is nonsense. As soon as you turn your piece round, there won't be any runout.

    I don't know what you plan to turn, but more than likely you will eventually get a chuck, and then won't use the faceplates much anyway.

    I have adaptors to use my chucks and faceplates on any of my lathes. Never had any problems.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Midland MI
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    I have a chuck and use it most of the time, sometimes I like the faceplate to rough time out the bowl, and make the spot for the chuck to go.


    I can do up to a 16 in bowl, what size chuck jaws work for what bowls?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Pueblo West, CO
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    495
    try wbnoble.com Pretty inexpensive but work for me

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Wasser View Post
    try wbnoble.com Pretty inexpensive but work for me
    Those are about twice the price of grizzly, are they superior?

  6. #6
    best faceplates, IMHO, hands down - are Oneway.

    yes the cost more - but they are worth it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Fredericksburg, TX
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    2,576
    Quote Originally Posted by cody michael View Post
    I have a chuck and use it most of the time, sometimes I like the faceplate to rough time out the bowl, and make the spot for the chuck to go.


    I can do up to a 16 in bowl, what size chuck jaws work for what bowls?
    I use a 3" faceplate for roughing outside of bowls up to 20" D, but use the live center for support up to final point of removing stem from tenon that is usually about 4-5" D on that large a bowl. I do have a 6" Oneway faceplate that I use holding endgrain large pieces, but even those are often rough turned using the 3" faceplate for attachment. The 3" faceplate will fit inside the 3 1/8" D Forstner bit flat spot that I use to get past bark or rough surfaces.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Fort Pierce, Florida
    Posts
    3,498
    Quote Originally Posted by cody michael View Post
    I have a chuck and use it most of the time, sometimes I like the faceplate to rough time out the bowl, and make the spot for the chuck to go.


    I can do up to a 16 in bowl, what size chuck jaws work for what bowls?
    Once you attach a faceplate, you have lost any ability to adjust the piece for balance or looks. Lyle Jameison has some excellent you tube videos on basic woodturning. His video on mounting wood explains my point very well.

    Lyle on Mounting Wood

    BTW, I am NOT saying not to use a faceplate. That is the MOST secure way to mount wood, you just have to allow for the screw holes. I would not use one to prepare for a chuck though.
    Last edited by Thom Sturgill; 10-03-2015 at 8:20 AM.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  9. #9
    My way is likely not the best way, and it certainly isn't the only way. I used to use a woodworm screw in my chuck, but that got to be a pain. Now, on bowls, I drill a hole large enough (and deep enough) to house my spur center. With the spur center recessed in the hole, and the tail stock in place (with a live center), the bowl can not come off of the lathe. If you have a catch, it just breaks the grip of the spur center, not screws or your blank.

    Again, this is just how I do it, and I thought I'd offer that up before you buy faceplates to make bowls.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Southern Ontario Canada
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    430
    If you want to use a faceplate as Peter commented in this post getting a tap and making your own works also.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...or-face-plates
    Rick
    I support the Pens for Canadian Peacekeepers project

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    274
    A few years ago I purchased a couple of the grizzly lightweight aluminum faceplates. They were sand cast aluminum and IMO truly lightweight. I did not feel comfortable using them for anything serious. The threaded boss was too short and a spacer was required to keep the spindle from protruding through the face.

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