Paring chisel bevel angle

[Jeffrey Cole]

Good morning, I looking at buying some paring chisels. I am confused by the different angles I see. Narex Comes with a 20 ° bevel and Blue Spruce Toolworks comes with a 25° primary bevel and a 5° MB for a total of a 30°bevel.
What bevels do you guys recommend and do you use MB on paring chisels?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME!!
Jeffrey

[Nicholas Lingg]

I just ground a chisel to 15 degs. and don't like it. So the next time it needs sharping it will go back to 20.

[Tom M King]

I use 20 to 25 on my Marples paring chisels. Unless I'm using an oilstone, I don't use micro-bevels any more. Micro bevels are for slow stones.

[glenn bradley]

20*for paring with no MB here. This is highly subjective depending on use. My paring is all very delicate and minor in quantity. A big job supplying more abuse to the tool would make me want a higher angle. A bit more effort to push but, a potentially longer lasting edge. For the way I use them (trimming plugs, fitting hinges, touching up the fit on something), a low angle is fine.

[Jim Koepke]

I am confused by the different angles I see. Narex Comes with a 20 ° bevel and Blue Spruce Toolworks comes with a 25° primary bevel and a 5° MB for a total of a 30°bevel.

Different steels work best at different angles. Many report A2 steels chipping at low angles. Some have reported blades folding or rolling over at low angles on some steels.

This is one of my reasons for having a few chisels in each size.

My preferred angle on my paring chisels is in the 15-20º range.

My preference is also for a single bevel.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

My preference is also for a single bevel.

jtk

Do you not put a micro-bevel. I essentially hone a single bevel, but I do 2 or 3 strokes lifting the but of the chisel a tiny bit for a micro-bevel.

And them I hone the edge on a hone 25-30 strokes. The hone is particle board charged with green honing wax.

[Jim Koepke]

Do you not put a micro-bevel. I essentially hone a single bevel, but I do 2 or 3 strokes lifting the but of the chisel a tiny bit for a micro-bevel.

And them I hone the edge on a hone 25-30 strokes. The hone is particle board charged with green honing wax.

I do not intentionally put a micro bevel on most of my blades. One or two thick blades may get a micro bevel when I am in a hurry.

Usually my last strokes on a stone are done with added care to keep the bevel flat.

Most of the time my sharpening is done freehand. For me it is easier to keep the bevels flat.

There are more ways for people to sharpen a blade than there are angels that can dance on the head of a pin.

Many folks find a micro bevel to their liking. It has worked for me at times, but it isn't my standard operating procedure.

jtk

[Jeffrey Cole]

Thanks for the help guys!! Looks like 15° - 20° and no MB
Jeffrey

[lowell holmes]

I started adding micro-bevels when I acquired a LV apron plane. I was having issues with it and Robim Lee posted that a micro-bevel would solve the issues. I tried it and it did, but I'm not suggesting it is appropriate in all cases. I just want the edge to be sharp, but not thin and weak. I don't know if it does or not, but I get consistent results. I think it does.

I'm not suggesting everyone should do the micro-bevel.

[Tom M King]

I did micro-bevels for years, but used oil stones for 20 to 30 years, and continued after I started using water stones. As I have gotten faster cutting stones, the mb's are not necessary, and just slow you up the next time. I don't put them on anything any more. It just makes more metal to take off next time. Unless an edge needs to hit the grinder, a flat bevel leaves a quick fix to hone it back to super sharp again. Back when I was using mb's, I did a lot more grinding. My last six strokes are on .5 and .1 angstrom Diamond Lapping film-three each-after the 13k. I have a double stainless sink where I'm working now. A 9x12 granite surface plate fits tightly in the bowl to the left with a 200x200 Atoma 400 sheet on it, and the stones in the bowl to the right. Sitting on a block of wood to tilt another 9x12 surface plate into the bowl to the left on the counter are the two diamond lapping films. The faucet runs water in either bowl on what I'm using, and I just throw some water on the film to finish.

I have the MKII, and a couple of original Eclipses, but the only guide I've used in a long time is an old Record with about a 1/2" ball under it. I only use the Record for plane irons with a big camber on them. Everything else is done the flat bevel method without a guide. I've gotten pretty quick about it.

[lowell holmes]

I started adding micro-bevels when I acquired a LV apron plane. I was having issues with it and Robin Lee posted that a micro-bevel would solve the issues. I tried it and it did, but I'm not suggesting it is appropriate in all cases. I just want the edge to be sharp, but not thin and weak. I don't know if it does or not, but I get consistent results. I think it does.

I'm not suggesting everyone should do the micro-bevel.

I miss spoke, Robin said to put a back bevel on the apron plane. I did and still do as well as a micro-bevel. It makes a HUGE difference.