staining red oak to match old polyurethane

[Robert Rifkin]

Hi,
I'd like to refinish a kitchen countertop that was originally finished in oil-based polyurethane varnish. I'm hoping to use a water-based acrylic polyurethane this time, which I believe will not take on an orange hue over the years as did the original polyurethane. The countertop is red oak, and I'm wondering if someone knows of a stain that might match the orange hue that the older styles polyurethanes acquired. (The remaining kitchen cabinets all have this orange hue, and I don't want to refinish all of them to match. Hence, I'd like to stain the countertop).

So this is kind of a weird question - whether one can stain red oak so as to match the orange hue that older style polyurethanes typically take on? The fact that it is red oak may not be important - maybe I just need a stain that matches the hue of aged polyurethane??

thanks.

bob

[John TenEyck]

Rather than stain it, I would add Transtint dye to the WB topcoat to match the color. I've done this a lot and you can get any color you want and, unlike stain, it will look just like your yellowed polyurethane finish assuming you are good at color matching. I build two or three layers to sneak up on the final hue, and have even adjusted the color mix from one coat to the next in order to get a better match. Then I finish with one or two clear coats.

Practice on scraps or the bottom of the countertop until you are satisfied.

John

[Chris Padilla]

What John suggested is known as toning. You add the color to a clear topcoat and the more layers you lay down, the more the color intensifies so, as John put it, you can sneak up on a reasonable match. This can take some patience and practice to get right so don't start on the final piece.

[Allan Speers]

I'm starting to prepare for much the same job as Robert. Fixing nicks and dings in all the red oak trim in my house.

After a bit of discussion here, it seemed like the best approach was to use a water-based dye, since the dye will sink into the raw wood, but not so much the surrounding (old) poly. This makes sense, though I'm worried about the dye mving into the wood sideways, under the old finish. Also, it can't possibly look exactly the same as the original tinted poly.

John's idea here to use tinted WB clear may be better, but how do you deal with the new finish that overlaps the old finish? Just lots of light, judicial sanding afterwards?



Also: Which tints would be best to start with? My trim also has a bit or orange in it.

[David Pascoe]

Dyes are rather tricky in my view. I make my own stains using a set of natural earth pigments I got from Lee Valley, using whatever medium is appropriate, oil, solvent or water. Much less chance of making an irreversible mistake.

[Chris Padilla]

Also: Which tints would be best to start with? My trim also has a bit or orange in it.

Google up Transtint colors and plan to order at least 3 that look close to your eye because I can almost guarantee that if you pick one, it will be off. A little goes an extremely long way with these dyes but once you have the magic formula, be sure to write it down!