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Thread: Got a run in my nitro. Best fix?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    I never have had an HVLP spray setup. I wish I did. I recall when I was young,those old Kirby vacuums had a cheap looking spray gun attachment that was an HVLP! Never used one.

    Julie,I'm sure the Behlen is fine as long as you aren't spraying over any dyed wood inlay like you find in the rosettes of classical guitars,or in strips down the back. I'd be sure to stop those off with wax free shellac before applying Behlen lacquer. That includes highly colored woods like rosewoods such as you might use for edge bindings. They can bleed too.

    It is true that(at least in the 60's),Martin used 20% solids Sherwin Williams lacquer. I met their salesman and he told me about it. I was using the same thing at the time. But,it is SO LESS PRETTY than the water white Star lacquer I use now. I introduced Star to a really good maker in my area years ago. He was astonished at how nice it looked.
    Last edited by george wilson; 11-04-2015 at 10:10 AM.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    I never have had an HVLP spray setup.
    I've used compressor type sprayers and airless sprayers in the past. Both convinced me I hate sprayers. When I bought my HVLP system I was about to take on a cabinet job for our kitchen. I knew there was no way I could achieve the quality of cabinet shops by brushing. For what they would have charged me, I justified buying the HVLP system. Once I got to know the sprayer, I was hooked. I don't even mind the cleanup.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Danville, PA
    Posts
    2
    For touchup oversprays I've had great results using Mohawk lacquers. The best for touchup is a product called Perfect Blend. It's a higher solvents/low solid lacquer so it bonds and flows nice. The can also has a special tip that gives good atomization. Konig also makes a touchup lacquer that works really well. With either product expect a little sticker shock. I think a can of Perfect Blend runs about $11, but for it's specialized use I've found it to be worth the price.

    As for the run, I would scrape with a razor blade, then sand with 400 on a block and continue spraying. For what it's worth I like to take the corners off of my razor blade before scraping. The last thing you want to do is catch a corner and have a big scratch to fill.

    I wouldn't worry about your sheen difference until the very end unless you are going to switch to a different product. Any good repair lacquer will come in a variety of degrees from dead flat to high gloss. I think Mohawk sells 20,40,60, and 80 degree. I usually spray gloss and then adjust the sheen mechanically. Sand and buff to a high gloss like normal, then take the sheen down. My favorite method is to use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser (used dry). I know that sounds a little strange, but they are just abrasive enough to knock off the gloss and leave an ultra fine scratch pattern.

    Hope this all helps.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    If I want a gloss finish,I use only gloss for the entire job(after filling the grain with diluted epoxy. Low gloss lacquers are not as transparent as gloss. They have minute fibers in them to cut down the gloss,but they also cut down on transparency.

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