Shop Walls

[Bob Marino]

Ok, moving right along with the shop. For the shop walls - drywall, slatboard, T 1-11? Whatever the material, I am going to paint it an off white/ Festool light gray - nice, bright and clean. My initial thoughts are drywall will get banged up in a hurry. I may use French cleats for some wall cabinets, so slatboards, T1-11, something else?

Bob

[Keith Burns]

I used 3/4" plywood on mine. That way I can hang anything anywhere without having to worry about hitting a stud. If I need to move something just take the screw/hanger out and move it.

[Mike Weaver]

Bob,
I used 3/4" T&G OSB Subfloor on mine...

This thread may be useful:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=22587

Cheers,
-Mike

[Charles Bruno]

Bob,
When moved in to my house I used dry wall. I wish I had used t1-11 our something more solid. go with the T1-11. I think Norm did a shop wall on one of the NYW. It worked great, you can hang thing with no worry.

[Jim Hager]

I used 1/2" osb for my shop walls and screwed it all to the studs with drywall screws so I can get it off there in case of repairs and redos.



I bought 20 gallons of flat white mixing base for $2 gallon at an auction and painted it all before moving in. Still got a couple of gallons for touch ups. I like the osb because I can put anything I want to on the walls without worrying about it holding. Of course the heavy shelving is mounted to the studs. OSB will take quite a whoopin before it is damaged.

Sure wish I could get some more organization time in my shop. Work flow is good but the mess, oh, the mess.

[lou sansone]

here is how I have done the walls.

lou

[John Renzetti]

Hi Bob, For the walls you may have to put up firerated 5/8" drywall initially over the studs. I writing this on the fly and can't remember if your shop/garage was attached to your house or not. If it is attached in anyway then the firerated drywall will be required. Might still be required even if completely detached.
After that you could leave areas with just drywall and then put cabinets on the walls. Slatwall looks good. Wall paneling is also nice but can get expensive.
take care,
John

[Larry Norton]

Bob, I wasn't worried about "Pretty" on my one inside wall. I used OSB. The rest of the walls are white pegboard.

[Bob Marino]

Thanks guys - wow, there are a lot of nice shops there.

John, the garage is unattached, but I will check into the codes regarding drywall over the studs as a fire protectant.

Bob

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I vote on Lou's solution. I'll be doing the same thing someday with my little red barn shop...I love the look.

[John Gregory]

Bob,
I used 3/4" T&G OSB Subfloor on mine...

This thread may be useful:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=22587

Cheers,
-Mike

I did the same thing Mike did and I am very please with it. I can put a nail or screw anywhere I want to. Of course hanging heavy cabinets, I use french cleats and screw the cleat into studs. But most tools will hang anywhere with a nail or screw. One note. If you are going to paint it like I did. use a oil base primer, water base primers raise the "grain" (various shaped wood chips really)and makes the walls very rough.
John

[Jim Becker]

The "original portion" of my shop is T1-11, although I made the mistake of using the thinner stuff. If you do this material, get the thicker version ~ 3/4". The newer portion of the shop has 7/16" OSB as it was cheap and available at the time. It does require "a lot" of paint to cover as it soaks in big-time. One option is to use OSB or any other inexpensive 1/2" nominal material and overlay that with the least cost unfinsihed bead-board paneling you can find. I only mention this because you are not just building a shop for personal use, but also a space that you will have customers in from time to time. Regardless, french cleats are the way to go for hangin cabinetry and other things on the wall...the WOOD Magazine Idea Shop #5 has a lot of great ideas toward that end.

[larry merlau]

Bob i too have 1/2" osb. but if i had to do over again and had the availbilty of lumber i would go with lou's idea it just looks better.. but the construction would dictate what would work better for you. pole construction or timber construction works well with vertical siding, but horizontial works better for stud construction or ply siding. i wouldnt go with t1 -11 its not worth the cost in my book.

[Jamie Buxton]

In my shop, you mostly can't see the walls. They are obscured by cabinets, storage racks, lumber, sheet goods, and the like. That is, sheetrock would be fine. Heck, no interior covering would be fine, except that you'd need to run power in conduit.

[Bob Wingard]

I used "Hardi-Panel" .. .. .. same size, look, and feel of T-111 but super fire resistant, won't rot & bugs won't touch it !! !! !!