First, keep in mind that while titebond's recommendations for pressure are a helpful suggestion for some clamp ups, on a 2X4 sheet of plywood, 150PSI clamping pressure would be almost 180,000PSI of pressure...thats a lot of bags of salt! Logic and experience tell me somehow the suggestions for clamping joints in hard and soft wood don't apply to these types of laminations. I worked in a place that had a 50 ton hot press, thats only 100,000 pounds, does anybody doubt that a 50 ton press makes plywood stick together? I've also seen a guy at work put a handful of cast iron weight plates on an 18X24 inch lamination...and seen it fail miserably. The glue has water, the plywood moves when you wet one side, the glue won't stick if the plywood doesn't touch.
The idea of the cauls/clamps/platten approach is that you use a flat platten above/below the work, curved cauls on one side of the glue up, flat cauls on the other, the curves in the cauls apply the pressure in the middle of the assembly, the platens spread the pressure over a larger area evenly. It works surprisingly well, though it gets more difficult to achieve as the assemblies get larger. My favorite method is a vacuum bag. We have been making lots of 1" shelves lately the require 1" plywood due to span. Much of the 1" plywood available has only one show veneer, the back side can be a 3 or 4 and suitable only for paint grade. We've also done a bunch of 1 1/2" shelves in rift oak by laminating 3/4" sheets. I'm pleased to let you know we have had no failures to date in the vacuum bag, and it only applies 13psi at best! I've used it to do some pretty sharp curves in bent lamentations, works great. My point is not that you need to buy a vacuum press (you should of course because they are very useful and great fun, but not required), you do not need a 50 ton hydraulic press, and you do not need to buy 40,000 bags of salt. Just make sure your method applies enough pressure to keep the two surface close together with no gaps. A few cauls and platens is usually the cheapest readily available approach.
For rolling the glue I like the cheap black foam rollers, for big stuff I use 9" roller and put the glue in a paint roller pan, I also have 4" and 6" foam rollers for smaller stuff. I just cut the 9" ones to fit my roller. I also have some skinny white foam rollers that don't hold as much glue but work well for small assemblies. Regular nap paint rollers work fine too but ten to shed a bit of fuzz at first which I find annoying, though it doesn't seem to cause any problems. Plywood glues quite easily, try applying a thin layer of glue to two pieces and rubbing them together until they feel stuck then just leaving them to dry. no clamps, you will still have a pretty hard time if even possible to separate them.