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Thread: Pairing Oak and Cherry

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Colorado Springs
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    I had not thought to ebonize the wood. On oak, is that likely to hide the grain pattern? I could also use some transtint or just a mocca stain. I guess I would need to experiment with it to get it right.

    I looked up how to ebonize wood. I think it is something I could do, but I should figure that out before I build the shelves I suppose.
    I'm learning here. To ebonize oak, I dissolve a steel wool pad in a quart of white vinegar (it takes a day or so). Wipe it on and the oak turns black. This also raises the grain, and sanding makes the black uneven, so it becomes a lather, rinse repeat kind of operation.

    I haven't tried the methods that others have mentioned. I would certainly do a practice run before committing to the ebony / cherry combo. As others have said, the grains are different.
    "Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert Heinlein

    "[H]e had at home a lathe, and amused himself by turning napkin rings, with which he filled up his house, with the jealousy of an artist and the egotism of a bourgeois."
    Gustave Flaubert, Madame Bovary

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
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    3,441
    I think that I will put my nice curly cherry away and make oak fronts for this. Glad I took the time to ask.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Mountain Home, AR
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    547
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Herzberg View Post
    I'm learning here. To ebonize oak, I dissolve a steel wool pad in a quart of white vinegar (it takes a day or so). Wipe it on and the oak turns black. This also raises the grain, and sanding makes the black uneven, so it becomes a lather, rinse repeat kind of operation.

    I haven't tried the methods that others have mentioned. I would certainly do a practice run before committing to the ebony / cherry combo. As others have said, the grains are different.
    Doug,

    The steel wool won't actually dissolve. The vinegar doesn't really even change color much, but if you leave the pad in the solution for more than a few days it will start to rust. After a few months there will be a rusty solution on the bottom with clear on top. The clear stuff still works, but you have to be careful not to mix it up...at least I wouldn't think the results would be pleasant. Never messed with putting the rusty stuff on wood

    I tried this ebonizing method out a couple of years ago when I started turning just to see what it would do. It really does work on just about any wood. Never tried walnut, but oak, box elder, hickory, mulberry, maple and cherry all turn black. The cherry turned almost immediately. The mulberry took a couple of minutes.

    My curiosity got the better of me...I just walked out to my shop to try it on a piece of walnut and learned that the solution has a shelf life. It is maybe 2 years old and isn't turning anything black - not even cherry. Guess I need to make a new batch!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
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    I was lead to believe that for oak you wanted to do something more like this:


    1. Put the steel wool in the vinegar for a week or two
    2. Create some strong tea (say lipton or similar)
    3. Brush the tea onto the wood (this adds tannins)
    4. Let the tea dry, but when it is still a bit damp, brush on the vinegar mixture


    One thing I read said it was still a bit muddy or something, so, after everything dried overnight, he brushed on another coat of vinegar mixture, let that dry, then add a coat of tea.

    So, some tea might help in the process. I did not try it myself.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Mountain Home, AR
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    547
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    I was lead to believe that for oak you wanted to do something more like this:


    1. Put the steel wool in the vinegar for a week or two
    2. Create some strong tea (say lipton or similar)
    3. Brush the tea onto the wood (this adds tannins)
    4. Let the tea dry, but when it is still a bit damp, brush on the vinegar mixture


    One thing I read said it was still a bit muddy or something, so, after everything dried overnight, he brushed on another coat of vinegar mixture, let that dry, then add a coat of tea.

    So, some tea might help in the process. I did not try it myself.
    I've heard that, but I didn't use any tea with the oak I tested this on. I soaked the SW pad for a couple of days before trying it and it started turning within a few seconds. Was black as coal within a minute.

    I went back to look at my test piece of walnut last night and it had a mildly-dark spot on both the sap and wood. So it does blacken walnut as well, but my solution is past due to be refreshed.

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