Kitchen farm table

[Dave Aronson]

I have finally moved beyond milling the wood for my kitchen table. I have the outside frame now dry fitted but I know I need to put in one or two support crossbars. I’m a bit stumped about the best way to add them. Maybe face glue supports on the inside of the frame and support cross beams. like a 3×1x4 piece with a notch cut out to support the cross bar. And face glue that to the inner frame. That make sense? any suggestions for a better plan?


The frame is about 3’ x 6’

IMAG1918.jpg

[Dave Richards]

I think mortises and tenons would be used typically for that. You could also use loose tenons or dowels. Or you could use sliding dovetails which would give strength to prevent the aprons from spreading apart.

Your ledge idea would work to keep the cross rails up but there'd be no strength to speak of because you wouldn't have a good connection between cross rail and apron.

[Dave Aronson]

I think mortises and tenons would be used typically for that. You could also use loose tenons or dowels. Or you could use sliding dovetails which would give strength to prevent the aprons from spreading apart.

Your ledge idea would work to keep the cross rails up but there'd be no strength to speak of because you wouldn't have a good connection between cross rail and apron.

I like the dovetail idea. Would the loose tenon or dowel provide strength since it would still be face grain to end grain? Obvious this is easier :-) I've never cut a dovetail slot in the middle of a board. To be honest, it has been a long time since I have cut any dovetail.

[Dave Richards]

The sliding dovetail would be strongest, of course, but mortise and tenon joints have good strength, too. If you don't mind the ends of the tenons showing on the outside of the aprons, you could wedge the tenons to lock them in place. You could fox-wedge them if you don't want them to show but there's not a lot of depth available in the mortise and everything has to fit perfectly because you only get one chance for assembly.

If you do the sliding dovetails, cut the sockets in from the top edge of the apron and stop them a half inch or so shy of the bottom edge. Then cut the ends of the cross rails to match.

[Dave Aronson]

The sliding dovetail would be strongest, of course, but mortise and tenon joints have good strength, too. If you don't mind the ends of the tenons showing on the outside of the aprons, you could wedge the tenons to lock them in place. You could fox-wedge them if you don't want them to show but there's not a lot of depth available in the mortise and everything has to fit perfectly because you only get one chance for assembly.

If you do the sliding dovetails, cut the sockets in from the top edge of the apron and stop them a half inch or so shy of the bottom edge. Then cut the ends of the cross rails to match.

Thanks, I think I will try the sliding dovetails. after I practice on scrap a few times :-)

I appreciate the suggestion.

[Dave Richards]

Good luck.

Remember, pictures or it didn't happen.

[Gene Davis]

Take a look at these videos. The hayrake table is built with through tenons where rails join.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/...-hayrake-table

[Lee Schierer]

Rather than weaken your stretchers add another piece inside that is attached to the stretchers. Put your dovetails in the added pieces.

[Jamie Buxton]

I'd just use glue blocks. A block might be 1.5x1.5, as tall as the apron. The grain of the block would be vertical, so there's face grain glue surface on both the apron and the stretcher. You can glue the blocks on, or use screws, or both. Much much easier than sliding dovetails, and likely stronger too.

[Prashun Patel]

A sliding dovetail will be clean.

However, you have a chance to make life easier by making something that matches the aesthetic of your table mounting scheme. If you use turn buttons, then glue blocks for the middle stretcher will fit right in. If you are screwing the aprons to the top, then pocketscrews may even be acceptable. (Yes, I said it.)

[Dave Aronson]

A sliding dovetail will be clean.

However, you have a chance to make life easier by making something that matches the aesthetic of your table mounting scheme. If you use turn buttons, then glue blocks for the middle stretcher will fit right in. If you are screwing the aprons to the top, then pocketscrews may even be acceptable. (Yes, I said it.)

I am planning on using figure 8 fasteners to attach the top.

How much would the dovetail weaken the apron? It is 1" thick, I was thinking to go 3/8" deep.

Do you think I should put in an angle piece at each corner connecting the adjacent aprons?

[Gene Davis]

Some plain cuts on stock at the chopsaw, a little glue and some wood screws, and you're done. Those short blocks are first thru-screwed into the ends of the crossmembers. Use two or three #10 x 2-1/2 flatheads. You want to be able to tapdance on this table.

You want to get this thing built, right? Get on with it. Use your joinery skills where you can see the work. Structural support doesn't need to be pretty.