#2 or #3

[ken hatch]

Another idea is the wooden coffin smoother. The standard one is 8" long, like the Stanley #3 but with a wider iron. That size is about ideal. You also have the 6" size which I think is a bit too light.

Finding one is another matter though. The old ones often have all kinds of kinks and wrinckles, like splits and huge wide mouths. You could commision Steve Voigt to make you one, he is as far as I know the only one making that type of plane today.

+1 on what Kees said if you are looking for a small nimble smoother. I have several small wood stock planes, ranging from a PhillyPlane coffin smoother to a ECE coffin smoother plus Krenov style shop made ones, that I use on small projects. All are much more nimble and lighter than my #3s (I do not have a #2). BTW, one of 'em is a like new older ECE coffin smoother that has a double iron as do the shop made ones. The shop made planes and the coffin smoothers, because they have no tote, become an extension of your hand in use. For larger panels, where you might want the use of a tote, a ECE "horned" smoother is really nice and in size fits between the Philly coffin and the ECE double iron coffin plane. As an example of size, the PhillyPlane coffin smoother is 156mm(6 1/4")X55mm(2 1/4") with a 40mm(1 5/8") iron. The largest of the bunch is the ECE double iron coffin smoother at 189mm(7 1/2")X68mm(2 3/4") with a 50mm(2") iron.

ken

[Frederick Skelly]

Odd. I must have small hands or use an odd grip. I never have trouble holding my #2. My WR #1, takes a bit of finesse to hold but not the #2.

As usual, Kees and Ken both raise good thoughts - a coffin smoother or small Krenov. LV sells a HW kit for a Krenov and I built one in a #3 size. It's a nice tool and cost me a total of maybe $70, including the maple.

Fred

[Rob Luter]

I'd like a #2, but just to have one. I really don't need a smoother smaller than a #3 for the work I do. In addition, I have big mitts and the #3 is about as small as I can comfortable grip. If the need arises, I have a couple nice old high angle block planes with adjustable mouths that work just fine for that sort of thing.

[James Phillips]

I see a lot of people that have #2's that do not use them. If anyone wants to part with one, let me know. I have small hands so I think it would work for me

James

[David farmer]

Close cap iron settings have really changed how I work for the better. A one handed plane like a 102 or block is the size that would most benefit from less cutting resistance. I wish there were more options from plane makers for a double iron, one handed plane.

[Jim Koepke]

I wish there were more options from plane makers for a double iron, one handed plane.

It seems there are a few makers making a #1 bench plane. It has a double iron and is a good size for one handed use.

Lie-Nielsen makes one as does Wood River.

It may be just right for your needs.

jtk

[David farmer]

I guess I never took a #1 seriously. I would like to have one in my hand to try. It's hard to imagine it would be a comfortable one hand grip. I was envisioning a squirrel tail type w/ a double iron.

[Jim Koepke]

I guess I never took a #1 seriously. I would like to have one in my hand to try. It's hard to imagine it would be a comfortable one hand grip. I was envisioning a squirrel tail type w/ a double iron.

David,

If you are in the Pacific Northwest you would be welcome to come by and give mine a test drive.

Here is one way to hold it one handed:

Holding the #1.jpg

Yes, it does look a bit strange, but it actually is comfortable and offers good control.

There may be someone near to you who has a different maker's #1.

I think WoodCraft carries them. There may also be a Lie-Nielsen tool event near you in the future where you could test drive one.

jtk

[Niels Cosman]

I guess I never took a #1 seriously. I would like to have one in my hand to try. It's hard to imagine it would be a comfortable one hand grip. I was envisioning a squirrel tail type w/ a double iron.

OOooooh!
I'm thinking this could be a great opportunity for a little design pet project. Without too much imagination I could see designing a couple of different retro-fits for no.1's and no.2's.
The most straightforward would simply be an extension bracket that could be bolted to the existing tote mounting points upon which you could reattach the existing tote.
On other end of the spectrum, if you wanted one hand use, I could see a fitting a no.1 with a large loop-handle (i.e. a clothes iron or push block).

[John Kananis]

OOooooh!
I'm thinking this could be a great opportunity for a little design pet project. Without too much imagination I could see designing a couple of different retro-fits for no.1's and no.2's.
The most straightforward would simply be an extension bracket that could be bolted to the existing tote mounting points upon which you could reattach the existing tote.
On other end of the spectrum, if you wanted one hand use, I could see a fitting a no.1 with a large loop-handle (i.e. a clothes iron or push block).

Sort of what you're saying (I think) -

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...82,41189,41715

[David farmer]

Thanks Jim, that's a generous offer. I'm in Durango Colorado so a bit of an outpost. I repair stringed instruments and there is a lot of trimming and shaping of small flexible pieces.Work holding is frequently done w/ the left hand.
I have to thought of modifying existing planes or even making some to fit my desires but have never seen a source for very small cap and iron sets. Making those is a bit deeper than I want to go(fall?).
I'm just surprised that there are not options for double irons that fit tucked under the right hand in a block plane type grip. If you google "violin palm plane" you'll see the numerous small planes involved.
I think the issue w/a #1 is the length of the cutter/advancing mechanism. It puts your hand so far away from where the cutting is going on. I'd still like to try one some time. Anyone have a source (other than custom made) for cap and iron sets less than say 1 1/4"?

Sorry for the hijack James. Probably should be a separate thread.
I see your on the front range and looking at you first big snow dump. Enjoy!

[Niels Cosman]

Sort of what you're saying (I think) -

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...82,41189,41715

Sort of like exactly!

[Steve Voigt]

Close cap iron settings have really changed how I work for the better. A one handed plane like a 102 or block is the size that would most benefit from less cutting resistance. I wish there were more options from plane makers for a double iron, one handed plane.

I'm just surprised that there are not options for double irons that fit tucked under the right hand in a block plane type grip. If you google "violin palm plane" you'll see the numerous small planes involved.

Like these?

coffin 1.jpg

coffin 2.jpg

coffin 3.jpg
coffin 4.jpg

coffin 5.jpg

coffin 6.jpg

[David farmer]

Gorgeous Steve.
How big are they?
Did you make the caps and irons?

[Steve Voigt]

Thanks David,

They are 5 1/2" long with 1 1/4" irons. I think I might make them 5" if I make more. They are somewhat similar in shape to Conrad Sauer's K4, which is only 4 1/2".

The irons are Hock. I used the stock chipbreaker but if I did it again, I'd make my own, as I do for other planes.