#7 chipbreaker question

[Kees Heiden]

This is a problem that gave me my fair share of troubles too. I quit using waterstones for this purpose, they just go out of flat too easilly. The same problem with sandpaper on glass. It might be the type of sandpaper overhere but I never get a flat surface with them. Diamond stones are nice, but expensive when you don't happen to have them allready. An oilstone is a good alternative.

And you absolutely need that clearance angle described above. The CB bends under the pressure of the wedge or the levercap. If there isn't any clearance, this will create a gap.

[Brian Holcombe]

Kees brings up an excellent point, if you are using waterstones, surface them flat frequently. I prefer other method now as well for that same reason, the water stones will go out of flat in a hurry.

[Terry Beadle]

Be sure to check the angle of the front top of the C/B. Some recommend a 45 degree or slightly higher angle. I also use my buffer on the leading edge surface to make sure the shavings have no reason to not want to turn up. If you don't get good results with the 45 degree bevel, then drop down to 40 and see if you get better results. Every plane can be different.

All the advice above re getting no light between the C/B and the flat of the blade is good. I prefer a fine grit diamond stone to make the mating surface.

Good Luck and happy shavings!

[lowell holmes]

I have the answer to your problem. Get the Lee Valley breaker. I have the Lee Valley iron and breaker on my 607. There are no issues.

Actually I also have the same combo on 604 and 605 planes as well.

You forget about setting your planes after putting these on.

[steven c newman]

I have the "stock" iron and breaker in this No.7c..
.IMAG0307.jpg
used it earlier today, edge jointing two planks to get ready for a glue up
IMAG0308.jpg
yep, two of them. nothing got stuck under the chipbreaker, either. Panel is sitting in the clamps at the moment
IMAG0309.jpg

[Stewie Simpson]

I have used Dykem blue in the past. Paint the back of the blade then rub the chip breaker over it. Where the blue transfers to the chip breaker indicates the high spots that need to be worked.

Not sure if a sharpie would transfer as well as the dye.

jtk

Ink side up to check the fit of the cb. Tighten the cb; areas making good contact with the blade surface will show as an ink mark; remove these high areas; repeat the process until a full impression of ink mark is seen across the full width of cb. Typewriter carbon paper is a cheaper option than the product listed. Dykem tends to dry too out quickly.

http://www.amazon.com/H88-Transfer-T.../dp/B00WMDPRFQ

[Daniel Rode]

Great suggestion Jim!

I like to try the simplest approach first. I tried looking through the sides as you describe and I could see where the light was coming through. I worked the edge until I couldn't see any light. I needed to flatten a 18 x 32 inch, so I was able to put it to the test right away. Worked like a champ and I didn't get any shavings between the iron and chip breaker. The moral of the story is that I *thought* I had it flat, but it was not.

For me it is easiest to look between the blade and the assembled chip breaker from the side. They are held up toward a light source to see if any light can be seen anywhere along the mating surface. Then the front of the mating edge is inspected to make sure there isn't any burr or fissure that may trap a shaving. If this doesn't revel any flaw, the next step is to make shavings until some jam. Then inspect the area where the shavings jam.