MDF drawer front and door construction

[Stuart Welsh]

I'm planning on featuring simple raised panel drawer fronts and doors (as seen below) in my new kitchen cabinets. Given the design I feel I can save a lot of time and future movement by using MDF rather than gluing up boards for the panels. I'll make the rails and stiles out of Maple but the panels out of MDF. My question is how to best build the panels which I plan on being 3/4 thick.



Screen Shot 2015-11-22 at 1.00.57 PM.jpg

Option A: Use full thickness 3/4" MDF and then rabbet the front and back to achieve the edge that sits in the stiles and rails as well as the raised portion.

Screen Shot 2015-11-22 at 1.05.04 PM.png

Option B: Use 1/2" MDF, rabbet the backside to form the tenon edge and the glue a rectangle of 1/4" MDF onto the 1/2" panel to form the raised portion of the panel. My thoughts on this are that the profile of the raised panel will be sharper when cut on the table saw rather than with a router. Yes I could use the table saw to make the raised panel but then I have two cut surfaces to get paint to cover smoothly.

Screen Shot 2015-11-22 at 1.05.51 PM.png


Thanks in advance for your comments,

Stuart

[Jay Jolliffe]

The only way that I've done it is option A. Why do an extra step as gluing two panels together. You also have to seal the cut edge for painting...You have to remember MDF will be softer than wood & will absorb moisture if not painted right. They also make a moisture resistant mdf. http://www.thruwayhardwood.com/docs/...MDF%20MSDS.pdf

[Jerry Miner]

Option A would be my choice. Extra work in Option B, plus the risk of misalignment of the second piece and glue squeeze-out to clean up.

You can use 5/8" MDF for the panel, to ensure that the panel surface stays below the frame surface after sanding.

[Lee Schierer]

I would go with option C. Unless there is a really good reason why you need a heavy door panel, make a 1/2" panel and sand the cut edges before the first coat of paint. A 1/2" panel will be considerably lighter than a 3/4" panel and no one will see the detail on the inside of your doors unless the doors are opened.

[Stuart Welsh]

Ok I understand the obvious choice of the first option now.

A certain old curmudgeon at Woodcraft gave me grief about spending time online reading info on this hobby/craft. I don't agree with him at all. I'm new to this craft in many ways and the insight I gain from experienced woodworkers is invaluable. Thanks guys.

Now… Lee. You have a concern about weight. (Don't we all! ) Seriously I want some heft, something that feels solid. Maybe I compromise by using Jerry's suggested 5/8". You are likely most concerned about doors evidenced by "...no one will see the detail on the inside of your doors unless the doors are opened". Valid concern. Of the 9 boxes I have built for lowers only one will feature doors, the sink cabinet. There will only be one upper which will be completely different in style and have glass doors. So I have a lot of drawers. Using 1/2" will create a 1/4" void between the back of the drawer front and the front of the drawer box, another reason I'm thinking 3/4" (or 5/8") material.

Decisions, decisions.

[Tim Bell]

I would just do two 1/4" panels. Just make the door like a regular shaker door with 1/4" panel, then glue another on top.
Here's a pic of one I did a while ago (there is also a routed detail that you could omit).
fake-raised-panel2.jpg

[Yonak Hawkins]

If you go with 1/4", use plywood. Don't use MDF as it will, likely, bow over time.