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Thread: Benchcraft Miter Jack

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    What stops the faces of the mitre jack from being planed away?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Come on Derek, we know you're just itching to build one of these and find a way to improve it so that it doesn't wear at all. That kind of project has your tool-making skills written all over it. And by the time you're done, it will be a work of art, all hardwood and brass. You can't resist this challenge, Sir!

    Fred

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,494


    You never know ....

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Temecula,CA
    Posts
    442
    What if you placed a hardwood strip 1/8" away from the jaw. You could use the to register the side of your plane and it would wear like a shooting board

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Clinton Township, MI, United States
    Posts
    1,554
    You are overthinking this. The plane blade ONLY comes across the workpiece, the front and rear of the plane ride on the miter jack. Yes, the area immediately adjacent to the workpiece get a bit chewed up, but less than you might think.
    I learned on one with thin cardboard on the faces, but after looking at antique miter jacks, I came to the conclusion that cardboard or veneer was unnecessary.
    Mike
    From the workshop under the staircase, Clinton Township, MI
    Semper Audere!

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    2,152
    Very nice Keith. I have thought about building a mitre Jack and almost pulled the trigger on the Benchcrafted parts kit but could not quite justify it. I just couldn't figure out how and when I would use it. Keith, where in your work are you planning to use the mitre jack?
    Jim

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,494
    Jim, I cannot speak for Keith, but one of the attractions of this accessory is to pare coplanar tenon shoulders.

    This is how I dealt with it when squaring shoulders on curved rails ..



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #22
    Yes the mitrejack is also usefull when paring with a large chisel. Another option is sawing with one of these French veneersaws, when they are set on one side only. Don't the Japanese have something similar too?

    prod1_5532.jpg

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Kees Heiden View Post
    Yes the mitrejack is also usefull when paring with a large chisel. Another option is sawing with one of these French veneersaws, when they are set on one side only. Don't the Japanese have something similar too?

    prod1_5532.jpg
    I would lean toward a big paring chisel--no problems with planing the jig that way--but the veneer saw is also a great idea. Never thought of that!

  9. #24
    I heard this from th eguy who sold me his mitre jack. He is an avid collecter of old Dutch tools. He showed me several of these saws, and I still call myself an idiot because I didn't offer to buy one from him.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Seattle Wa
    Posts
    162
    James,
    The reason I built it was for the reasons others have described. Some time ago a bought a vintage one but it was too light duty to use and the glue joints had failed.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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