Triton Router Collet Sticks

[Greg Hines, MD]

I ordered one of the Peachtree Woodworking Triton 2 1/2 HP routers this week, and it arrived yesterday, so today, I unpacked it and got familiar with it. It seems like a sturdy router, and I like the automatic collet lock and rack-and-pinion movement. But, I cannot disengage the bit from the collet. Unscrewing it all the way only succeeds in removing the nut, while the collet and bit stay lodged in the motor housing. Suggestions?

Doc

[Dan Friedrichs]

Just to confirm, you're aware of the "bit ejection" mechanism, and it's not working? To remove a tight bit, you give it an initial loosening, then continue to unscrew until you hit a second tight spot, wrench it through that tight spot, then try to remove the bit?

[Greg Hines, MD]

Just to confirm, you're aware of the "bit ejection" mechanism, and it's not working? To remove a tight bit, you give it an initial loosening, then continue to unscrew until you hit a second tight spot, wrench it through that tight spot, then try to remove the bit?

I guess not. When I unscrew it, I get the nut loose and free, and the collet and bit stay in the motor arbor.

Greg

[Robert Chapman]

After the nut is loosened the first time keep loosening until it frees up again. Then bit should be free.

[Greg Hines, MD]

After the nut is loosened the first time keep loosening until it frees up again. Then bit should be free.

All it does is come off the router, leaving the collet and bit behind. It looks like it should have a clip or o-ring but there is not one.

Doc

[Dan Friedrichs]

I went and looked at mine - there is definitely a slot on the collet (which is, I assume, where you are suggesting a clip or o-ring should go), but on mine, that slot holds the collet captive in the nut. I can't get my collet to separate from the nut. If your collet fits tightly on a bit, then I guess the only explanation is that the nut was machined undersized, and you need a new one.

[ken masoumi]

All it does is come off the router, leaving the collet and bit behind. It looks like it should have a clip or o-ring but there is not one.

Doc

Greg, the same thing happened to my Triton router a few years ago, if I remember correctly, I over tightened the collet without a router bit in it and as a result the bushing popped out of the collet.
I suggest you remove both the bit & the bushing from the router (by securing the router and tapping the bit from the back with a brass punch or brass rod and a hammer), then remove the bit from the bushing the same way, only then you can insert the bushing back in the collet with narrow end into mouth of the collet (the top end where the wrench normally fits ), I would lubricate the bushing a bit before inserting it back in the collet.

I don't know if I explained it clearly but basically you will be squeezing the bushing into its "closed" position which makes it narrower/smaller in diameter so it could fit in the collet..

[Greg Hines, MD]

Greg, the same thing happened to my Triton router a few years ago, if I remember correctly, I over tightened the collet without a router bit in it and as a result the bushing popped out of the collet.
I suggest you remove both the bit & the bushing from the router (by securing the router and tapping the bit from the back with a brass punch or brass rod and a hammer), then remove the bit from the bushing the same way, only then you can insert the bushing back in the collet with narrow end into mouth of the collet (the top end where the wrench normally fits ), I would lubricate the bushing a bit before inserting it back in the collet.

I don't know if I explained it clearly but basically you will be squeezing the bushing into its "closed" position which makes it narrower/smaller in diameter so it could fit in the collet..

How do you remove the bit with it be seized in the motor arbor? All I can think of is to grip the bit with vise grips or something to pull it out.
Greg

[ken masoumi]

All I can think of is to grip the bit with vise grips or something to pull it out.
Greg

I would clamp the router in such a way so it doesn't move , then use a rod or a screw driver(preferably brass rod so it doesn't damage the bit) and place the tip of the rod right on the base of the bit, hit the other end of the rod very lightly with a hammer to push the bit out ,if you don't care about saving the router bit your idea of using a vise grip will work also.

[glenn bradley]

I agree that the self-ejection ring is probably gone but, the problem is how to get the bit out now. The collet loosens by being drawn out of the tapered throat. I don't know that there is any elegant way to make this happen with the mechanism not in play. A piece of hardwood with a slot milled in it to straddle the bit's shaft behind the cutter (I hope it has a cutter that is bigger in diameter than the shaft) and then some tapping, prying wiggling effort. A drop or two of penetrating oil to make things slippery couldn't hurt. This pic shows the ring pretty well but, I don't know that it can be gotten into position with a bit in the collet.

[Mark Wooden]

Try tapping all around on the side of the bit shank with the nut removed. I've used a bit wrench that's heavy enough to deliver a decent tap with out swinging at it.Yes, it may ding up the shank, but it's stuck, right?
When you get it out, polish the inside and outside of the collet, the inside of the router shaft and the bit shank with a piece of red scotchbrite. Then, wax the outside of the collet only.
You should be able to get your bits out easily after the clean up. Keeping the collet component clean is paramount to keeping them working.
I've been cleaning my collets this way for years on all my routers and haven't had a stuck bit (that I can remember) since I started doing it.

[Tom M King]

This is the way router collets used to all work. I remember thinking when they came out with self-releasing router collets that it was the best woodworking invention in my time. It used to be the reason for owning dedicated routers because bits got broken not that infrequently.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I agree that the self-ejection ring is probably gone but, the problem is how to get the bit out now. The collet loosens by being drawn out of the tapered throat. I don't know that there is any elegant way to make this happen with the mechanism not in play. A piece of hardwood with a slot milled in it to straddle the bit's shaft behind the cutter (I hope it has a cutter that is bigger in diameter than the shaft) and then some tapping, prying wiggling effort. A drop or two of penetrating oil to make things slippery couldn't hurt. This pic shows the ring pretty well but, I don't know that it can be gotten into position with a bit in the collet.

Unfortunately, its the 1/2" bit that came with it, a simple two fluted straight bit. I will try some WD-40 or some of the slick stuff I have for lubing up things, but I am unsure as to how I will get it out without damaging it. I am going to call Peachtree on Monday and see what they say if I am unable to get it out of the motor arbor.

Greg

[Mark Wooden]

Unfortunately, its the 1/2" bit that came with it, a simple two fluted straight bit. I will try some WD-40 or some of the slick stuff I have for lubing up things, but I am unsure as to how I will get it out without damaging it. I am going to call Peachtree on Monday and see what they say if I am unable to get it out of the motor arbor.

Greg

Have you tried tapping on it sideways yet? You'll ding the shank, but it won't ruin the bit, just don't hit the flutes. A 1"x 8"-10" piece of hardwood works too. On the penetrants- you'll really need to get the residue from such sprays off; if you don't, bits can slip and cause damage or injury.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Update: so I tapped it as hard as I felt comfortable, and it won't move. I tried gripping the core of the bit with needle nose vise grips, and it still won't move. Calling PeachTree this afternoon.

Doc