Tenon length for rails on raised panel cabinet doors, drawers.

[Stuart Welsh]

I'm somewhat confused as to what depth my rail tenon and corresponding stile slot should be on raised panel cabinet doors and drawers. There seem to be a number of choices based on what I've read and seen on actual cabinetry.

I anticipate some may want to know design details so here they are:

The door and drawer style will be Shaker with a simple raised panel, absent of any profile details such as ogee or bevel.
Stock for rails and stiles will be a finished 3/4" thick.
Tenon and slot will be 1/4" thick.
Rails and stiles will be solid maple.
Raised panels will be either solid maple or MDF.
Rails and stiles will be approximately 2" wide, give or take a 1/4".

Thanks in advance for your input,

Stuart

[Lee Schierer]

Typical rail and stile bit sets make a tenon that is 1/4-3/8" long and the full width of the rail. Your tenons don't need to be any more than that.

[Jerry Miner]

The "stub-tenons" typically used for cabinet doors are usually around 3/8" long. I consider this to be about minimum. If you're gluing in your panels (which is OK with MDF but not with solid wood) you'll probably be OK, but if your panels float and your doors are very large or heavy (you didn't give us the overall size) you might consider either:

1. a deeper groove/longer tenon, or
2. an extended-length tenon (either integral/traditional or "floating"---the Domino is great for this)

Tenon [1] 12-2-15.jpgTenon [2] 12-2-15.jpgTenon [3] 12-2-15.jpg

[Robert Engel]

I would research how Shaker style is and try to duplicate it.

Adv of longer tenons = reduce twisting when clamping up door.

Unsolicited advice: I assume these are painted cabinets. Just my opinion, but you may want to reconsider the MDF panels. I think they look just a little to perfect. Even if painted, I think its better to see the wood grain. Since you're doing flat panes, you could use maple plywood.

Caution: if you use 1/4 ply you will have to get a different spacer for the router bit the groove will be too loose.

[Stuart Welsh]

The "stub-tenons" typically used for cabinet doors are usually around 3/8" long. I consider this to be about minimum. If you're gluing in your panels (which is OK with MDF but not with solid wood) you'll probably be OK, but if your panels float and your doors are very large or heavy (you didn't give us the overall size) you might consider either:

1. a deeper groove/longer tenon, or
2. an extended-length tenon (either integral/traditional or "floating"---the Domino is great for this)

The largest door will be 40H x 12W, and those are for the only upper. There will be a couple lower doors, (majority of lowers will feature drawers), which will be about 27H x 15 wide.

I like the idea of incorporating the domino!

[Stuart Welsh]

I would research how Shaker style is and try to duplicate it.

Adv of longer tenons = reduce twisting when clamping up door.

Unsolicited advice: I assume these are painted cabinets. Just my opinion, but you may want to reconsider the MDF panels. I think they look just a little to perfect. Even if painted, I think its better to see the wood grain. Since you're doing flat panes, you could use maple plywood.

Caution: if you use 1/4 ply you will have to get a different spacer for the router bit the groove will be too loose.

I'll be using a table saw to make the rails and stiles as well as the panels so panels will fit properly. The style is a modified Shaker for lack of a better term, Shaker in the simplicity and absence of decorative profiles but still incorporating a raised panel. Yes they will be painted.

Screen Shot 2015-11-22 at 12.23.45 PM.jpg