Where to begin with oilstones?

[Kenneth Fisher]

After the holidays I want to upgrade my sharpening set-up. I'm currently using sand paper on glass, and while it works it is a PITA. I've been doing a lot of reading about different set-ups and think that oilstones might be my best bet. But I do have some questions.

Any suggestions on which stones to get first?
Is a grinder necessary?
Any recommendations on where to buy them?

Thanks for the help in advance,
Ken

[Steve Voigt]

Any suggestions on which stones to get first?

You really only need two stones to get started…a medium or fine India, and a hard black or translucent Arkansas. I recommend you also have something to flatten your stones with. I use 60-80 loose silicon carbide grit on a glass plate, which is a very cheap method. More expensive but also more convenient is a coarse diamond plate.

Is a grinder necessary?

I think this question is independent of what kind of stones you use…any medium (oil, water, diamond, etc) can work with or without a grinder. If you don't use a grinder, you will need a coarser stone, which could be a carborundum stone, or a coarse diamond plate, or even a coarse water stone.

Any recommendations on where to buy them?

I recommend Tools for Working Wood.

[Jim Koepke]

Ken,

Bring some planes and chisels over after the holidays and give my small collection of oilstones a test drive.

I just recently purchased a very nice hard Arkansas stone.

Any suggestions on which stones to get first?
Is a grinder necessary?
Any recommendations on where to buy them?

The first two depends on whether you are maintaining blades or if you are buying a lot of used tools that need rehabilitation. For day to day maintenance you could get by with a couple of stones to start. A hard Arkansas, a translucent Arkansas followed by a strop is often all one of my blades needs to get back to service.

jtk

[Robert Engel]

I use a translucent and surgical Arkansas. I got them from Best Sharpening stones.

I got a combination stone I wouldn't do it again. Each time you flip the stone over you lose your honing oil.

You'll have to do some studying on soft, hard, black, translucent, surgical the nomenclature can get a little confusing.
There is no grit comparison I know of to compare diamond, water or arkansas stones.

[lowell holmes]

I like oil stones and have them. I seldom use them because I keep my sharpening gear out next to the bench.

I have two diamond hones and mdf charged with honing compound. I freehand sharpen with a lateral motion, rocking back and forth a bit with my elbows locked.

A mist of water from a spray bottle is my lubricant.

OBTW, I have a set of water stones that I don't use.

If you ask a dozen woodworkers about their sharpening techniques, you probably will get a dozen different answers, like it's a personal thing.

My edges are all extremely sharp, producing translucent shavings. My edges will pare end grain .

[Tony Zaffuto]

I would start with the "Tools for Working Wood" DVD, by Walt Frasier. Excellent demo of how to do it. Grinder for hollow grind, medium india and then black transluscent Arkansas will do the trick. Used this method for many, many years and have dozens of stones (I accumulate washitas and stones in fancy boxes).

But with that said, over the past several years, I moved to Spyderco's-medium, fine and then ultra-fine. Trick here is to thoroughly flatten the stones before use (then the flatness lasts and lasts) and use George Wilson's suggestion of just a little spritz of water (just started this a couple of months ago) and they work exceptionally well (at least for the type of wood I work-cherry, walnut, white oak, etc.).

Edited to add that I also use a grinder before the Spyderco's and I free hand sharpen-no jigs.

[don wilwol]

I go from an medium grit 8" wheel hollow grinding to a Arkansas stone. The only thing I use anything else for is flattening the back.

[william sympson]

To start with a simple inexpensive oilstone get a Norton IB8 (coarse fine India combo stone) for about $20-$25. I used one exclusively for years. There was a recent thread on this subject.

R/
William

[John Crawford]

I'm an amateur who has gone down this path just a bit. So, listen to others with more wisdom, but I would say that when you are getting your stones, also figure into your budget:

* something to flatten the stones initially, and to re-flatten them when they (occasionally) go out of flat
* flattening (in my experience) tends to glaze the stones so they cut less aggressively, so then you need something to de-glaze them or to rough them up a bit (depending on the coarseness of the stone of course)

[Kenneth Fisher]

You really only need two stones to get started…a medium or fine India, and a hard black or translucent Arkansas. I recommend you also have something to flatten your stones with. I use 60-80 loose silicon carbide grit on a glass plate, which is a very cheap method. More expensive but also more convenient is a coarse diamond plate.
Wood.

Thank you, this is sounds like the set up I'm looking for.

Ken,

Bring some planes and chisels over after the holidays and give my small collection of oilstones a test drive.

I just recently purchased a very nice hard Arkansas stone.



The first two depends on whether you are maintaining blades or if you are buying a lot of used tools that need rehabilitation. For day to day maintenance you could get by with a couple of stones to start. A hard Arkansas, a translucent Arkansas followed by a strop is often all one of my blades needs to get back to service.

jtk

I'll be taking you up on that offer here pretty soon. I'm mostly looking for something just maintain edges right now.

I use a translucent and surgical Arkansas. I got them from Best Sharpening stones.

I got a combination stone I wouldn't do it again. Each time you flip the stone over you lose your honing oil.

You'll have to do some studying on soft, hard, black, translucent, surgical the nomenclature can get a little confusing.
There is no grit comparison I know of to compare diamond, water or arkansas stones.

I found a this at sharpeningsupplies.com http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Sh...t-W21C125.aspx not sure how accurate it is though.

I like oil stones and have them. I seldom use them because I keep my sharpening gear out next to the bench.

I have two diamond hones and mdf charged with honing compound. I freehand sharpen with a lateral motion, rocking back and forth a bit with my elbows locked.

A mist of water from a spray bottle is my lubricant.

OBTW, I have a set of water stones that I don't use.

If you ask a dozen woodworkers about their sharpening techniques, you probably will get a dozen different answers, like it's a personal thing.

My edges are all extremely sharp, producing translucent shavings. My edges will pare end grain .

I've tried the diamond stones, didn't like them to much. They did the job, just didn't feel right.

I would start with the "Tools for Working Wood" DVD, by Walt Frasier. Excellent demo of how to do it. Grinder for hollow grind, medium india and then black transluscent Arkansas will do the trick. Used this method for many, many years and have dozens of stones (I accumulate washitas and stones in fancy boxes).

But with that said, over the past several years, I moved to Spyderco's-medium, fine and then ultra-fine. Trick here is to thoroughly flatten the stones before use (then the flatness lasts and lasts) and use George Wilson's suggestion of just a little spritz of water (just started this a couple of months ago) and they work exceptionally well (at least for the type of wood I work-cherry, walnut, white oak, etc.).

Edited to add that I also use a grinder before the Spyderco's and I free hand sharpen-no jigs.

Thanks for the recommendation for the DVD. I'll be looking into that for sure.

Looks like I'll be looking at a black Arkansas and a medium/fine India or a soft Arkansas.

Does anyone have any experience with naturalwhetstone.com or woodcraft's pinnacle stones?

[Reinis Kanders]

My natural whetstone10x3 black hard arkansas was not flat at all. Took some effort to flatten. Dan's translucent on the other hand was flat.

[Jim Koepke]

I found a this at sharpeningsupplies.com http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Sh...t-W21C125.aspx not sure how accurate it is though.

It is pretty much in line with other, similar charts.

One thing that seems to be missing in all of them is razor hone stones and jasper stones. I haven't used my razor hone much. I have a couple of jasper stones and they actually polish beyond a translucent Arkansas stone.

Also translucent Arkansas can vary.

My favorite oilstones come from danswhetstone.com I haven't had much experience with other purveyors of oilstones.

jtk

[Reinis Kanders]

Where does one get jasper stone. I searched ebay a bit, but didn't see anything.

[Jim Koepke]

Where does one get jasper stone. I searched ebay a bit, but didn't see anything.

My wife is in to rocks, lapidary and gemology.

I bought a piece of what is called "Ohio jasper" in a rock shop in Portland. I have a slice of a different jasper my wife bought at a gem & mineral show/swap meet. They seem more like a traveling road show at times. I did get some very nice pieces of translucent Arkansas at one. They are a bit different than the cut you would get from a sharpening stone supplier, but often gem & mineral show prices are a few bucks for a useable piece.

There are different grades of jasper. Some of the picture jasper looks to be a coarser, softer stone than the harder jasper.

I do not know much about the different grades or types of stone. I usually ask my wife.

I have noticed a few folks interested in knife making or knives in general at gem & mineral shows.

jtk

[Graham Haydon]

Grab an 8 x 2 India combo stone, have a go with it. If you need something beyond keep an eye out for a vintage Washita or Arkansas or get a new Arkansas.

If you'd like a grinder the water cooled versions are ultra safe regarding heat build up and are a doddle to use. An 8" slow speed grinder needs a steadier hand but will get you there faster.