Dust Collection design?

[Marc Burt]

Is there another company out there that offers duct design other than Oneida?

I'm seriously thinking about just going whole hog in the new shop but

A) I don't feel like doing all the leg work
B) I really don't feel like doing all the leg work and spending all that money and forgetting something

I like the idea of somebody just putting together a package of what all I need and me just assembling it. Between all the wiring and framing and lighting I'm kinda tired of working ON the shop and I'm ready to start working IN it. But I also feel like I've got it about where I want it why mickey-mouse it with my DC Either by rolling it around or shoddy ducting myself. In my previous shops I've always clustered my tools pretty effectively so swapping hoses wasn't that big of a deal. Here I've got more space and I'm spread out more. Plus with a toddler running around I can't afford to waste much time.

Anyway, not necessarily looking for a cheaper option but just more options. Has anybody here used Oneida's services or equipment?

Thanks!

Marc

[Bill Adamsen]

In my area, there are local engineering outfits that perform this service. The caution is that they seem to be geared towards the larger shop with everything running simultaneously. That may be your situation , but it certainly wasn't mine. I found that the amount of up-front work the firms were expecting of me - machine location, pipe constraints - had me basically designing the system anyway. I leveraged some spreadsheets available online for calculating pipe air velocity and static resistance based on the variables of collector CFM, diameter and friction. It took a bit of effort to figure out initially, but I have found myself happy with the results.

[Albert Lee]

Nederman can surely solve your issues... but how much they charge? dont know

[David Kumm]

I've been down the road on building systems a few times and the more marginal the system, the better the design needs to be. If you buy a 5 hp cyclone with a 16" curved blade impeller and run one or two gates at a time, 8" mains reducing to 7" with 6" drops are pretty much bulletproof. Many 5 hp systems have 15" impellers but the extra inch gives you some extra cfm when restricted and most of time you are restricting the flow at the port anyway. My shop is 2000 sq ft with 30 drops and long runs so a straight blade 16" works better with my 8" mains but needs about 6 hp due to the inefficiency associated with a radial blower that operates under higher pressure. If your shop is in the 1000-1500 sq ft size with < 30 ft runs I'd spend the extra on a 5 hp 16" system and spiral pipe with sweep 2.5 radius ells. Dave

[Robert Engel]

Penn State Industries.

[edit] and be prepared a system like the one described above will be $1K's of dollars.
You don't need expensive spiral pipe pvc will work fine for a fraction of the cost.

[David Kumm]

Spiral pipe is cheap, the fittings are expensive. 6" mains, whether spiral or pvc, will max out your cfm at 1000-1200 with a 15" impeller, maybe 1200-1400 with a 16" if the stars all align correctly. Dirty filters, blast gates, machine ports, and flex all reduce that down to where you may be happy when using certain machines but a 20" planer, large jointer, or any type of sander might generate more dust than you will like. As the machines get larger or older, the collection needs more cfm. you can redo your system several times as I have but it is much cheaper to build in a little capacity up front as there is no cheap way to add any later. Dave

[Marc Burt]

Thanks for the input so far. My shop is a basement shop with 9' ceilings. I haven't measured but I'm somewhere around 1000' maybe more. My ceiling is unfinished but with a sprinkler system to work around. Something that has annoyed me to no end so far.

Edit: I presume all your mains are suspended from the ceiling? Anybody have any pictures, I'm having trouble imagining how such a large pipe looks hanging from the ceiling.

[Bill Adamsen]

Likely not exactly the configuration you sought.

[Terry Hatfield]

Marc,

It's really not that tough to go it alone as far as design goes. It's fairly simple to design a system even though some of us totally overcomplicate it.

Ducts on the ceiling photos...

Shop 2012 (84) by TerryHatfield, on Flickr

Shop 2012 (85) by TerryHatfield, on Flickr

Shop 2012 (50) by TerryHatfield, on Flickr

[Terry Hatfield]

Likely not exactly the configuration you sought.

Wow Bill!!! Gorgeous shop!!

[Marc Burt]

Wow those are both great looking shops!

[John Ziebron]

Terry, nice looking shop. I have to ask - are those all 6 inch drops? And it looks like you've changed the 4 inch outlets on the various machines to 6 inch as well. Sounds like a good idea. I bet it works well for you.

[John Densmore]

Do you have any other pictures of your shop?

That is almost my dream shop.

[Terry Hatfield]

Terry, nice looking shop. I have to ask - are those all 6 inch drops? And it looks like you've changed the 4 inch outlets on the various machines to 6 inch as well. Sounds like a good idea. I bet it works well for you.

Thanks John. I do have all 6" drops and I have changed most of the machine hoods to 6". It makes a huge difference. My local HVAC supply turned out to be a great place to source materials. I used various HVAC register boots and flanges. Here's a few pics.

I have 6" into the cabinet saw using a 6" flange..

Shop 2012 (69) by TerryHatfield, on Flickr

Shop 2012 (61) by TerryHatfield, on Flickr

Another 6" flange for the jointer..

Shop 2012 (58) by TerryHatfield, on Flickr

This is a register boot adapted to my Rigid planer. Bit of a warning on this one. 6" to the jointer is LOUD!!!

Shop 2012 (57) by TerryHatfield, on Flickr

Compromised with the edge sander. Ran 6" right to the port with a 6 to 4 HVAC adapter. It works well.

shop (9) by TerryHatfield, on Flickr

Bottom line is that with a little ingenuity and a few bucks at the HVAC store you can significantly improve the machine hoods for very little money.

[Chris Padilla]

Good stuff, Terry! Nice to hear from you as well!