Jessem Table Saw Guides - Concern

[Joe Beaulieu]

Hey Folks,

i am am considering a set of these for my TS, but something is nagging me about them. They seem to block the use of a tight to the fence push stick. Am I worrying without cause here? Even the guy on their video has to carefully align his push stick between the devices and the blade. I didn't like it in the video. Anyone have these? Are they causing any issue with push sticks?

Thanks

Joe

[glenn bradley]

Like any guard or safety device, they have their place. You will not use them for every operation just as you don't use an over arm dust collection hood, board buddies, push blocks, feather boards, etc. for every operation. They all have their place. I have looked at items like this several times but, I am a bit tablesaw-centric in my approach and in my thinking. This means I do many different operations on the tablesaw.

My choice of safety devices will differ with the operation at hand so all of them need to be quick and easy to change over. By all reports these are very well made and function as designed. Go through several tablesaw operations in your mind and see how many of them would allow these to come into play. Then choose what is best for you and your approach.

P.s. These can also come into play on the router table and that may increase their value to you.

[Robert Chapman]

I have the TS Guides and really like them. However, if you have them set tight against the fence then you cannot use a push stick except in front of the guide. As stated by Glenn you won't use them for every operation. On balance I think that they are a valuable addition to a table saw.

[Floyd Mah]

I've had a set of Board Buddies that I modified to do the same function as the TS Guides. Since the guides press down on the board and also direct the motion of the board at a 5 degree direction towards the fence, the only degree of freedom for movement is forward. The board is prevented from moving backwards because of the action of the wheels (clutch bearings which only allow unidirectional rotation of the wheels). When the device is adjusted properly, you can start a cut, take your push stick off the board, and the board is held stationary. Since it doesn't drift, it will not be caught by the saw blade to have a kickback. Because of these restrictions on movement, you only need to follow the rear of the board with a push stick. This has the additional value of keeping your hands away from the blade and not needing a downward force to hold the board down.

The bottom line is that you don't need a push block and you don't need to have a push device in the space occupied by the TS Guides. Just a push stick to advance the board past the saw blade. You can use a board that is sacrificial to push the target if your spacing is too tight for a push stick. I use a feather board as extra insurance against unwanted movement.

[Rick Potter]

Floyd,

I am assuming you just push the work through with a same thickness (or less) push stick, since all the side and rear movement is already blocked. That is what I do with the Jessem guides on my router table. Is this correct?

I am about to order mine.

[Ben Rivel]

Floyd,

I am assuming you just push the work through with a same thickness (or less) push stick, since all the side and rear movement is already blocked. That is what I do with the Jessem guides on my router table. Is this correct?

I am about to order mine.

Thats what I was planning to do. I just got done installing them on a Sawstop PCS. Combined with a featherboard on the table applying side pressure I was thinking all one would need was a flat push stick the same or close to the thickness of the piece being cut.

That being said if its a very slim piece Id probably just use my GRR-Rippers to cut it.

[John Hollaway]

Floyd, can you be a little more specific about the mods you made to your Board Buddies? Thanks.

John

[Rick Potter]

Last night I ordered the Jessems saw guides from Infinity. On sale for $259.

After reading a recent sawblade thread, I also ordered a purple Infinity Super General TK blade. It is a general purpose blade, and should be a full 10" for my SS PCS. I hope to be able to leave it on the saw most of the time. I will give it a try and let everybody know how well I like it. I will be building a sled, and some other jigs, and don't want to mess them up with various oddball sawblades which I have.

I have several Freud full kerf 24 tooth rip blades, and I think I will keep one on my old Unisaw when I do not have a dado on it. Love those blades. The Uni has a Beis splitter on it, and I have a few hundred feet of various thickness red oak to process before putting it away in the rack.

[Floyd Mah]

Nothing fancy. Just moved the wheels onto my own contraption. If you own a unifence, you know that it's not easy to attach devices to it. The spindles are just rods that are the same size as the original. The function of the Board Buddies is contained in the wheel: clutch bearing.


Edit: I just noticed that Amazon has a sale on the Board Buddies. Under $60 for a pair (I had to read the Q&A but seemed to verify two per package). So, if you want to save $200, make your own. I've had these for many years.

[julian abram]

I've had and used these Jessem TS guides now for a year plus. You have hit on my only gripe, they do interfere with the normal use of a push stick. I generally just slide them on top of the fence when ripping narrow stock requiring a push stick. The guides are well made and I like them but some times you just have to move them out of the way.