Which type of chisel is appropriate for this task?

[Patrick Chase]

In regard to the Schwarz article, at the time it was written, pigsticker chisels were not as prevalent as they are now. It was common to use square sided mortise chisels, even firmer chisels for chopping mortises. For a long time, I thought firmer chisels were mortise chisels. The Lie Nielsen mortise chisels were (and are) square sided. I have Lie Nielsen mortise chisels. I still use them occasionally, but I prefer the pig stickers. We used bevel edge chisels (and still do on occasion) to chop mortises.

So Schwarz was speaking the truth at the time he wrote about the sides of the mortise chisels.

2007. I can buy that - the Narex chisels didn't hit the market until 2012 as far as I can tell.

Thanks for the clear and logically argued correction.

This is one of those things that seems to come and go over time. I remember seeing a pair of FWW articles from the late 70s by Ian Kirby and Frank Klausz. Kirby asserted that mortise chisels must always be registered (straight sided) while Klausz argued for taper.

[Pat Barry]

Pat, it's very clear that you've developed some sort of obsessive dislike of me (though a quick look through the archives reveals that I'm in very good company in that regard), but I'd encourage you to stick to what you know or at least avoid cases where your argument isn't so trivially disproven.

The Narex and Hirsch mortise chisels at a minimum have similar base-to-top taper to the Ray Iles ones that Schwartz was claiming were unique.

EDIT: OK, I was wrong here as Lowell pointed out. That's what happens when you let trolls get under your skin. My apologies to everybody else who saw this.

Cool it bud. Just pointing out that the source here was solid. Keep up with your comments though. Some of them are interesting.

[lowell holmes]

I use square sided mortise chisels, fairly happy with them. All things considered I like them better than comparable tapered side mortise chisels I had previously.

Yamahiro is the maker.

I'm not in your league of woodworking Brian. However, I must admit I use the square sided or tapered side chisels by whim. What ever suits me at the moment is what I use.

Did you see the Becksvoort article in Fine Woodworking demonstrating how to cut mortises. He drilled them on a drill press and then placed the square side chisel in the mortise at one end of the drilled mortise. He then levered the sides smooth with the chisel. It left remarkably smooth mortises.

[Brian Holcombe]

I haven't seen it, does he drill a single hole or drill out the waste entirely?

[lowell holmes]

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-t...n-minutes.aspx

He drills the waste out entirely. Check the article.

[lowell holmes]

lyyneschair11.jpg

The through mortises on my Craftsman Style rocking chairs are chopped with a 1"bevel edge chisel. You don't just whack away at it.

[Brian Holcombe]

Nice work Lowell!

most of the time on big through mortises I just drill a hole and saw out the waste. Then pare to the line. I don't know if it's the fastest method, but it's certainly easy on me.

[lowell holmes]

I would like to see the saw you use. I've experimented with jab saws, but not with any luck. I suppose a coping saw would work, but I am the worlds worst with coping saws.

[Brian Holcombe]

I just feed a bow saw through the hole, thin blade (1/4") but aggressive teeth.

[lowell holmes]

I built the Gramercy bow saw, but teeth of the blades give me a fit. They are really grabby. I've tried stoning some of the set out, but not much success.

I made the saw out of curly maple, but one of the arms broke. I think I will make another from either hard maple or QS white oak.

I have the same issues with coping saws. Fret saw teeth are too fine.

I seem to be coping/turning saw challenged.

[Tom M King]

Today, I remembered where I was when the Ulmia mortise chisels came. I bought them in 1976. Getting used to the long tool, and tapered sides, I've never liked using anything else. They've been keep in a thick leather roll from the first day, and are still in great shape. I tried to find some on the internet, but evidently there are none except for a couple of 5/8's. If they had cost this much in 1976, I'm sure I wouldn't have them. http://www.amazon.com/Ulmia-343-16-M.../dp/B006WSEKLO

If I have a lot of mortises to cut, I'll set up a machine. If there are just a couple of dozen, I'll just chop them out by hand. I've never drilled holes, but just start in the middle to keep from bruising the ends. It probably takes less than a minute per, and maybe even a couple in a minute depending on how deep they are.