This is another episode in the saga of "Fred Makes Mortise And Tenon Joints". I was going to write this in my personal notebook anyway, so I thought I'd just go ahead and post it to help other hand tool neophytes like me. (Old, skilled hands won't get anything out of this but a chuckle.)
I made 8 machine-cut mortises for a chair. As I mentioned in another post, I didn't get them aligned correctly and had to tune them by hand. As a result, not every mortise was exactly 1/2" wide and centered perfectly. Some were as much as 1/32" wider or slightly offset to one side or the other. (But they were darn sure SQUARE!) Tonight I cut/fit 4 of the tenons. Here are some lessons learned.
1. A sharp marking knife and a good marking gauge make your work fit together better. William Ng was right - a marking knife made a big difference for my accuracy.
2. Mark your tenon to match the individual mortise for which it is intended. Don't just set your marking gauge and lay all the tenons to exactly the same width; i.e., what it's' "supposed to be". Really skilled guys can make perfectly positioned mortises. This newbie can't (yet), not even with a machine (yet). How do you do this? Easy - mark the mortise with a letter to identify it. The first mortise is "A". So is the first tenon. Next, set your marking gauge to match the right side of the mortise A. That's the line for the right side of tenon A, too. Scribe the right line on tenon A. Next set the gauge for the left side of tenon A. If you're good (or lucky), the left side of the mortise is the same offset from the edge as the right side. But if it isn''t, just adjust the marking gauge to match the left side and transfer that to the left side of tenon A.
3. Graham Blackburn recommended cutting the tenon shoulders first. To get a really nice, straight, clean cut, he suggested using a wide chisel to cut a v-groove along the line of that cut, making sure the wall is vertical along the line. I think Chris Schwartz calls this a Class 1 cut - it's gonna show and it has to look good, so you gotta take extra care. Hence chiselling the v-groove. Using this method, and cutting right on the line, I got straight, square shoulders that required very little touchup with the shoulder plane.
4. Next cut the cheeks. I found an LV rip tenon saw does a good job for this -aggressive and controllable. Much better than my smaller LV rip backsaw. Again, cut to the line.
5. Check the fit. Mine were always close but needed some paring with a wide butt chisel. Then they fit well. If you have a rabbett block, that would be a great choice to tune the cheeks. I don't, so I improvised using a combination of my #1 hand plane and a wide chisel (to get right up to the shoulder).
None of this is earth shattering. But it worked for me and the joints fit so well that I feel like I've made a no-kidding breakthrough in my personal skills. So it might work for other newbies. Hope so.
Fred