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Thread: Source for high-angle toothing plane?

  1. #106
    Today I used my abutment saw in earnest. I now totally understand the desire to make it a little easier! It works, I get nice cuts, but it is a pain to fight the binding saw all the time, in the mean time rasping the skin of my fingers on the other side of the mortise.

    Make it taper ground Stewie.

  2. #107
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    Stewie,since your saw shown in your picture is a pull saw,you might want to consider that you'll have to grip that VERY thin,tapered handle very tightly when pulling the saw. It would tire out my hand quickly in use.

    Basically tool design must first depend upon the function of the tool( as must ANY type of design for any object that has a functional use). That is what I first consider when designing any new tool.

    I hope you do give this bit of truth in design some thought.
    Last edited by george wilson; 02-05-2016 at 10:23 AM.

  3. #108
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    By the way,there is a toothing plane on the February tool list of Patrick Leach. As is the usual case with these planes,it shows minimal wear.

  4. #109
    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post

    Basically tool design must first depend upon the function of the tool( as must ANY type of design for any object that has a functional use).
    That's worth taping to the wall of the shop, in big, bold letters.
    "For me, chairs and chairmaking are a means to an end. My real goal is to spend my days in a quiet, dustless shop doing hand work on an object that is beautiful, useful and fun to make." --Peter Galbert

  5. #110
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    Hi George. Since this kerfing saw has been designed to work on a pull stroke I will give your suggestion some further thought.

    Stewie;

  6. #111
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    Stewie,perhaps you could use the same design,but just curve the end of the handle into a hook shape. Though your handle is graceful,it would not hurt to make the grip thicker. Even with these mods,you would still be using he same basic concept.

  7. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    Stewie,perhaps you could use the same design,but just curve the end of the handle into a hook shape. Though your handle is graceful,it would not hurt to make the grip thicker. Even with these mods,you would still be using he same basic concept.
    George. I will stay with a max. handle thickness of 23mm to match the saw bolts I use.

    Stewie;
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 02-05-2016 at 6:56 PM.

  8. #113
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    I meant width,not the required saw bolt thickness,which has to be a certain thickness.

  9. #114
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    George. Attached is the updated design for the new kerfing saw. The new shaping of the handle should be more appropriate for a pull tooth saw. I have increased the handle stock width from 32mm to 42mm to allow more of a downward curve to the handles shape. The stock thickness has been reduced down to 20mm to make it feel slightly less bulky within the hand. The handle wood shown is Bubinga.

    Stewie;

    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 02-07-2016 at 7:34 AM.

  10. #115
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    Stewie

    That is not going to work either. The handle needs to taper down towards the blade. In other words, the end of the handle nearest to you needs to be wider than that closer the nuts. Otherwise you will be forced to grip more tightly to prevent your hand slipping, which is fatiguing. Turn the handle the other way around. Alternately, broaden the cross section at the end.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #116
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    Derek. I appreciate your input. I wont be making any further changes to the handle design.

    If the design of this saw blade works out fine; I will most likely make a spare retrofit saw blade with a longer toothed length for use on woodies with deeper depth of wedge abutments.

    Stewie;
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 02-07-2016 at 5:27 AM.

  12. #117
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    Stewie,if you at least increased the size of the "flip out"or maybe the "fish tail" would be more more descriptive. at the end of your handle,it would give the hand something more to butt up against when pulling the blade. I think your new handle is a good improvement of the first,and is still quite graceful. Perhaps even more graceful.

    I must say you make better drawings than I do. I usually just draw the design directly on the wood or the metal. If it is a complex design,like the marquetry guitar,I will make formal drawings on paper in order to get the elements of the design properly spaced so that they fill their areas properly.

    Well,I did spend a few weeks making drawings for my new shop here,and additions to the house. There was considerable money involved! Didn't do a lot of good anyway,as the contractors had to be constantly made to re do things in accordance with what the drawings said. They had to properly relocate the windows,garage door,remake the stair case to the upstairs,re do the dormers 3 times to match the house,etc,etc.. I HATE dealing with contractors!!! Finally,the building was done,but it was uphill all the way.
    Last edited by george wilson; 02-07-2016 at 9:38 AM.

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