New Sander

[Edward Weingarden]

My angle sander just died so I'm looking for a new one. The decisions include air powered ROS vs electric, and non-ROS vs ROS. Question #2 is...if I use air powered, what size compressor is appropriate? Thanks.

[Justin Stephen]

The answers in this thread will get you going while you wait for new replies:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-power-sanding

I would be interested to try it but my little Makita MAC2400 (which I otherwise adore since it is so quiet) doesn't have the CFM to support it. I have been using the same $40 Neiko electric angle drill for about two years now and I haven't killed it yet.

[Prashun Patel]

I'm on my second Neiko. Hard to beat the price. However, I am thinking seriously about getting a 3" Mirka Ceros. Dust collection's really good on their larger sander (I have one). It also is super light and non fatiguing. I also find ROS better than straight orbital for removing sanding marks.

The problem is, to avail yrself of the dc, you'll need abranet or a source of 3" H&L with holes. All the stuff I find is solid.

[Reed Gray]

I have an old Sioux pneumatic angle drill that I used for a bit. It keeps the compressor running non stop. The random orbit sanders seem to work much better for the higher grits, 220 and above, the seemed to me to be really slow for the coarser grits.

Prashun, you might talk to Vince about abrasives with holes. Not sure if he could do that or not. If it is the standard 6 holes instead of the bunches of little holes, that might be more difficult.

robo hippy

[Bob Bergstrom]

I have two of the new Milwaukee close quarter drills I have dropped an older one and now one of the newer ones and both have blown the variable switches. It sure seems that the new ones don't like too much abuse. On the older one I also was using some 40 grit paper to get some bad tool marks out of the side wall and spun the back bearing which sits in a plastic housing. This caused the armature to start arcing. The cheaper close quarter have plastic gears in them so they won't take heavy use either.

[Edward Weingarden]

Justin:
Good link; thanks.

[George Overpeck]

Couldn't be happier with my metabo sxe 400, although it isn't a stand alone sander since it won't handle tight interior curves and edges very well. But it is exceptional for everything else.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I've been using the cheapest close quarter drill that Harbor Freight sells. I don't buy many things there, usually more than willing to spend what a well made tool demands, but these things are great. Besides, with the amount of dust that they produce, nothing's going to last forever without constant cleaning. At $29, I spring for the replacement guarantee. I usually get about 2 years out of them until the bearings get noisy, then take it in and get a new one...so I get 4 years from a $39 investment.

[John Keeton]

I never understood using a pneumatic sander. The cost of electricity to run the compressor will far exceed the cost of operating the electric angle drill. Plus, you have the wear and tear on the compressor and the noise unless your compressor is isolated, not to mention the weight and aggravation of the air hose. I much prefer the Neiko. Mine has actually lasted for six years, but in fairness I rarely power sand. I do blow the dust out of it frequently when in use.

[Edward Weingarden]

Thanks to all for the feedback.

[Reed Gray]

I spent maybe half an hour on the phone with Milwaukee talking about the angle drill. Mostly, they are drills, and not grinders, and truth being told, we use them as grinders. The bearings and housing are not made for the abuse we heap on them. The speed range is perfect for bowl sanding. The motor is perfect for up to 3 inch discs, though I can easily see the need for 5 inch discs on larger bowls, which may exceed the motor's capacity. Of course, this would really exceed the already stressed bearings. They need to put the chuck and bearing set up from the screw guns onto the angle/close quarter drills. They didn't seem interested though... Sigh, have to keep searching. Mini hole hog on an articulated arm? Screw gun with plug in from battery to gun so you don't have to hold up the heavy battery, and slightly higher rpm settings? Oh well, I do hope to find a solution eventually...

[Justin Stephen]

I never understood using a pneumatic sander.

I always assumed it was the comfort of using a "power" sander with such a small form factor and weight. Admittedly, it is very comfortable compared to electric drills. But, as you said, it doesn't make a whole lot of financial sense, most especially if you don't already own the compressor needed to power it.

[Edward Weingarden]

Based upon the feedback concerning a pneumatic sander, I've eliminated that option. I picked up an inexpensive close quarter drill at Harbor Freight today. When I tried it, it made so much noise I thought it was going to grind to a halt. Back it goes tomorrow.

[Doug Ladendorf]

On another forum I saw a recommendation for a flexible shaft sander. I have been looking into it and like the idea of a separate motor (1/3 HP or so) and fairly light flexible shaft, chuck and mount. I can't remember the company that makes a version of the shaft (paging John Jordan...). A Fordom set up may not be powerful enough. Still looking for the right solution myself.

Doug

[Reed Gray]

Fordom does make a 1/3 hp motor which they say will drive a 3 inch disc no problem. Only problem I can see with them is the flex shaft, which will need some maintenance, but I have no idea how often. You need a mandrill of some sort to hold the sanding mandrills, and unless it is in a handle of some sort, it might want to run away and be difficult to control.

I am going to head to my local big box store and check this out:

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-...rdless/2410-22

From what I can tell, it has rpm up to about 1500, and since it is a screw gun, it should be able to handle the loads better. Might need to figure out a transformer and cord so I don't have to use the batteries....

robo hippy