Which smoothing plane

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

I know this must be a topic which has been discussed to death over and over again. Nevertheless I need some piece of advise on which smoothing plane to buy.

I have Stanley no 7, a LN no 5, and Stanley no. 4½. Im not really using the Stanley 4½. I find it a bit bulky.

I think I need an alround smoothing plane and wonder which one to buy ?

[Kees Heiden]

The #4 is the alltime most universally adopted smooting plane from Stanley. They were sold by the bucketload and old ones can be find everywhere nowadays.

[Prashun Patel]

If you have the funds, the people who own the Lie Nielsen #4 swear by it. You cannot go wrong with that. And if you do, you'll sell it pronto (to me; i want one too...)

I own an ECE primus smoother that is wonderful.

I have a Veritas small bevel up smoother and have used the larger BU smoother, and while blade changes are easier, I prefer the bevel down configuration for a smoother.

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

would a high angle frog be better ?

[Jim Koepke]

would a high angle frog be better ?

People have been doing fine with a #4 plane as a smoother for well over 150 years. It must have something going for it. My only other recommendation for a smoother would be a #3. It is a bit smaller than the #4, making it easier to push but it takes more strokes for the same size work.

With a smoother one is usually taking fine shavings for the optimum surface. A higher angle doesn't produce as nice a surface and is usually reserved for difficult woods.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I have #3, 604, #5 1/2, 605, and 607 planes. The #3 Bailey is my go to smoother.

I might very well use my LV bevel up smoother if it's a serious project.

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

I just saw the Veritas #4 custom smoother with the PM-V11 blade. That is very interesting

[Patrick Chase]

I just saw the Veritas #4 custom smoother with the PM-V11 blade. That is very interesting

I have that plane and it's great, but...

The 4 and 4-1/2 (which you already have) are very similar in size, except that the 4-1/2 is 3/8" wider (2-3/8" blade vs 2" blade). If you find that the 4-1/2 is "bulky" because of its length then the 4 won't help - you'd want to step down to a 3 or even a 2 in that case.

Also, I wouldn't advise messing with high-angle frogs until you've spent some serious time smoothing with a common pitch plane, figuring out cap iron and mouth adjustments. If you get the LN or LV custom you can always buy the high angle frog separately and retrofit.

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

I have that plane and it's great, but...

The 4 and 4-1/2 (which you already have) are very similar in size, except that the 4-1/2 is 3/8" wider (2-3/8" blade vs 2" blade). If you find that the 4-1/2 is "bulky" because of its length then the 4 won't help - you'd want to step down to a 3 or even a 2 in that case.

Also, I wouldn't advise messing with high-angle frogs until you've spent some serious time smoothing with a common pitch plane, figuring out cap iron and mouth adjustments. If you get the LN or LV custom you can always buy the high angle frog separately and retrofit.

Its a 5 and 4½ I have. The 4½ I find bulky because of the extra with...I think

That Veritas custom #4 is now on the wish list

[David Bassett]

I just saw the Veritas #4 custom smoother with the PM-V11 blade. That is very interesting

Except for price, it's hard to imagine how that could be a poor choice.

There have been several, often contentious, threads recently. You should be able to find more details than you need with a search. My take for all that is that a normal angle bevel-down plane is the best choice once you have mastered setting the chip-breaker. A higher bedding angle can help some with tear out for really difficult woods, but with poorer surfaces over all. And a low-angle bevel-up plane is the easiest to setup to get good results, but reaches it's limits sooner too. Since I don't aspire to own a gazillion planes, one like the Veritas you mention seems the best choice to me.

[Patrick Chase]

Its a 5 and 4½ I have. The 4½ I find bulky because of the extra with...I think

That Veritas custom #4 is now on the wish list

What do you think of the 5? That's the same width (and blade, and mechanics) as a 4 but longer. Some people even use 5s (and 5-1/2s for that matter) as smoothers. If you're comfortable pushing that then your concern likely does boil down to width as you say.

Another way to test your preference would be to camber the blade on your 4-1/2 such that only part of it is extended at typical smoothing cut depths. That won't make the plane physically smaller, but it will reduce planing effort to the level of the 4.

[Chris Hachet]

If you have the funds, the people who own the Lie Nielsen #4 swear by it. You cannot go wrong with that. And if you do, you'll sell it pronto (to me; i want one too...)

I own an ECE Emerich smoother that is wonderful.

I have a Veritas small bevel up smoother and have used the larger BU smoother, and while blade changes are easier, I prefer the bevel down configuration for a smoother.

I concur, I use the ECE and am saving for a Lie Nielson #4 Bronze....

[Nicholas Lawrence]

The 4 1/2 is a little longer and a little heavier as well as a little bit wider. But I have one, and it makes a very nice smoother. If you have not done so already, try a little wax on the sole, that makes mine feel a lot less bulky.

My primary planes are a 7, 5, 4 1/2 (plus a No. 40). Rather than another plane to do what the 4 1/2 ought to be able to do, maybe look at filling in any other holes you might have. Maybe a router plane if you don't have one, or a rabbet plane. Lots of useful tools out there for way less than $300. I think the new Lie Nielsen shoulder planes are less than that.

[steven c newman]

#4 smooth plane at work..
smooth plane.jpg
Cost me a whopping fifty cents.
IMAG0056.jpg
Made by Millers Falls. Sold as a Mohawk-Shelburne. Same size as the Stanley #4, T-13 I have.
I also have a few #3 sized planes. I have one #5 sized one set up as a smoother, as well.

Setting off to one side, I have a German made Dunlap #3.....it has a York Pitch frog. They got that by angling the base for the frog to sit on. Bottom on the frog is flat. Needs to be refurbbed, again. Iron is actually a metric width..

[Chris Hachet]

#4 smooth plane at work..
smooth plane.jpg
Cost me a whopping fifty cents.
IMAG0056.jpg
Made by Millers Falls. Sold as a Mohawk-Shelburne. Same size as the Stanley #4, T-13 I have.
I also have a few #3 sized planes. I have one #5 sized one set up as a smoother, as well.

Setting off to one side, I have a German made Dunlap #3.....it has a York Pitch frog. They got that by angling the base for the frog to sit on. Bottom on the frog is flat. Needs to be refurbbed, again. Iron is actually a metric width..

My vintage planes work better with repalcement Irons. I am going to tune one of my vintage Stanley #4 planes within an inch of it's life as a smoother...