I got it. Thanks. I'll consider adding some more of those a bit lower and closer to the ground.
I've been referring to those boards as simply the long and short aprons. Originally, looking at the pictures, I thought those boards were simply cosmetic and intended solely to wrap around the table and hide the joints, while the true "aprons" were placed behind them and joined directly into the legs probably through M&T joints. Dave helped me see that the only "aprons" are the visible boards wrapping around the table. There are apparently no "inside" aprons.
I modeled the frame as having 5.5" aprons and 3.5" legs. Looks about like the photos.
Legs are 3/4" boards and the core is 2" x 2". Make the core of something stable, maybe riftsawn tightgrain cedar. I don't show any fasteners but you might want to go both ways with three screws each, through the core piece and into the aprons.
The picture you showed has the top inset into the frame, a nice design touch, but it makes the top non-regulation. If you care.
This is good stuff and very helpful, but unfortunately, you lost me about the legs, so let me start there. When you say the legs are 3/4" boards having a 2X2 core, what does that mean exactly. Does that mean I essentially wrap a 2X2 leg with 3/4" boards around it? I suppose the purpose would be to avoid the glue seam that would show if I merely glued several pieces together to form one 3.5" x 3.5" leg, correct? Am on the right track? Is this similar to what I've heard people refer to as linear dimensioning (or some similar terminology)?
As for fastening the aprons to the notches on the top of the legs, I was just going to use glue and some dominos. I actually don't have a domino yet, but I'm really close to buying one. Are you suggesting that I simply glue and screw the aprons to the leg. I'm open to that idea. Screws would certainly make it easier to move the house. I'm also going to use one of those braces under the table that are screwed into the aprons and the legs to pull them tight.
Sorry for all the questions. And I really appreciate you taking the time to consider this design. Much appreciated.
Pic shows 2x2 leg core, and mitered aprons face-screwing to leg. Plug the screws with grain-matched plugs. I pulled out the leg wraps 2 inches so you can see.
Consider wood movement here. You might make the core 1-7/8 square and not 2, glue and biscuit the outer miter for the two short leg wrap parts, glue them to the core only along a 1/2" line of glue along the outboard corner, then glue the other wraps to the outer wraps along the edge-face lines, and pocketscrew the inside wraps to the inside of the aprons. Your wrap can have a little seasonal movement and not go crack crack crack.
With your new Domino you can use 4mm loose tenons to get all those edge-glued parts in alignment, plus your miters.
I show it this way, the leg an assembly of core and 4/4 boards, because where I shop for lumber, all this is readily available and in stock. 4/4 alder is there in various grades and widths, and the core stock parts come as 8/4 billets.
I've not done the workout for whatever is needed, support wise, for the table top. That is all routine, and dependent on whatever you want in detailing it. I would get the top first and work from there.
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