[OP]
Member
I'm trying to make some butterfly patches to prevent the checking on the end of a board of maple from going any further. I was able to cut out the shape with my router (not pretty but will work). I'm having some trouble making the insert. I was wondering...instead of trying to cut out an insert to match the hole perfectly can I use some type of epoxy or even wood glue? Would this prevent the split from going any further? This is all being done on a piece of 5/4x8 maple.
Member
I think you will find it easier to make the patch piece first, then scribe around it it to prevent splintering, and then remove the waste material.
Member
A relatively easy way is to use one of these inlay sets -- for about $15. You make your own template.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...00,51208,41779
[OP]
Member
In the future I will try both of these suggestions, however I need this done by today and I don't have a band saw or scroll saw. Trying to do something that is quick and this seemed like something that in theory would work.
Member
How about just making a slightly bigger patch? I take some double sided carpet tape and tape the patch down on slab. Then Trace the edges with a marking knife. I find it easier to just use a chisel but if your router method worked the first time clean it up with that. Putting the patch in with epoxy will be a little more forgiving with a sloppy fit but you will obviously see the epoxy lines where it fills in the gaps. Leave the patch slightly high and don't set any part of the patch lower then the surface of the slap. When everything is dry I clean it up with a block plane, but I'm sure a random orbital sander will do the trick. I just don't have any grit suggestions, I haven't tried that method.
Member
General question about these bowties: When I've seen them on slabs, they only seem to be placed on one side, and only about an 1/8 of the total thickness. At this point, is this more for decoration? If would seem to me that the ties should be on both sides of the slab, and relatively thick. I also think that filling with epoxy after applying the inlay is a good idea? What is the general consensus?
Member
There shouldn't be anything to fill with epoxy, I'm not sure what you mean.
Member
Here is the first one I ever tried. I had to zoom in so its not the greatest picture. I set it in with epoxy. You can see on the right side it was a bit off and it shows up as a darker line, but I think it's fine, I'm the only one who would notice anyhow.
image.jpeg
Member
OP - you describe checks "at the end of a board" is that a check or a bunch of little checks? Is one check a few inches long or just visible as a crack? Do (does) the check(s) go all the way through?
Your answers might decide the solution. Using epoxy as a stop gap can work but I have found that it help to provide a full stop for the crack by boring a hole at the inside end of the crack to physically interrupt the crack. This hole should be as small in dia. as will completely interrupt the crack and as deep as the crack - a bit deeper. Then you can fill with epoxy to stabilize the crack.
However this solution might not be practical or necessary for a series of little checks at the end of a board. In this case you might be able to get away with forcing in some epoxy - forcing either with a syringe or with some pushing with a putty knife. In any case applying epoxy to cracks is usually a 2 or 3 application process. Big cracks will develop bubbles if you go to fast so best to pour slowly and pop any bubbles with a pin.
Hope this is useful info. Photos from you would help us help you. Good luck.
"... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
WQJudge
Member
As shown in the picture below (taken off the web), we see a couple of butterfly splines in large cracks in the slab. The crack itself is not filled with an epoxy, and the splines are typically only a fraction of the thickness of the slab. I guess I am just asking about the mechanics of stabilizing a crack with the method shown below.Originally Posted by Jebediah Eckert
7a6bd4e666c83f2c016ef94db082dee3.jpg
Member
Contributor
Jake, what do you mean by "both sides of the slab"? If they are structural, they are only used where there is a crack. Filling with epoxy is up to the builder, but leaving it open is more traditional I think.
As far as how thick they should be, wood is extremely strong with the grain so if you cut the bow tie with the correct grain orientation to doesn't need to be very thick.
Member
This is what I use and they are very simple to do. I know that doesn't help you today but worth ordering so you have one on hand. Good luck.
Red
RED
Member
Thanks for the help.
Lets say I have a 2.5" slab of w. oak with a crack that is 1/4" at the end and travels 10 inches across the slab. The crack is visible on both sides of the slab. What I have seen is one or two thin (1/4" or so) inlay placed on the presentation side of the slab. However, mechanically I think that placing inlays on the bottom of the slab, which would be more-or-less hidden from the viewer after construction would further help to prevent crack propagation. However, I think that mechanically speaking, using a combination of inlay and epoxy would give the best repair.
Hopefully this makes sense.
Member
i got it. I'm not sure is my answer but I'm sure somebody more knowledgeable would know. I do know I have read a bunch of threads and people tend to argue about wether they do offer much strength or not. I'm sure our thoughts are similar in that the thicker and deeper they go the better makes sense? Even a 1/4" one I would think would do something? I like the "drill" trick to stop the crack. That in combination with a Dutchman can't hurt.
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