Finishing my workshop..suggestions?

[Prashun Patel]

You cannot have too many outlets. I'd run them all @ 48" off floor.

[Terry Wawro]

I just finished my new 16x28 shop a couple of months ago. I installed 110 volt outlets about every 3-4 feet. All were installed 50 inches above the floor. This allows you to install a workbench or prop a 4x8 sheet of plywood anywhere and not cover them up. Each wall had it's own breaker. Plus I installed dedicated outlets for the dust collector, window ac unit and air compressor. Be sure to install one in the ceiling for an air filter and pull down/retractable power cord. After much thought, I did not install any 220 outlets. I've never needed 220v and having a small shop, don't anticipate buying any tools that require it.

I debated the whole drywall vs OSB over and over before deciding on drywall. I just like the clean white surface because it reflects a lot of light. I can always throw up a sheet of ply on the off chance that I need to hang something exactly between two studs.

[Ole Anderson]

I am with Roger, the last thing I would put on my shop walls is drywall. I went with 1/2" OSB (painted white) and 1/4" pegboard. I hate mudding and I hate fixing punch marks in drywall.

[Charles Wiggins]

You cannot have too many outlets. I'd run them all @ 48" off floor.

+1.
And consider using something more solid that drywall.
Half of my basement is finished so I already had a stud wall down the middle. It had flimsy peg board, which I ripped out and replaced with 7/16' OSB. The opposite wall is just block. I painted everything with ultra white to reflect as much light as possible.

I can put a nail or screw anywhere in the OSB wall without regard to studs. I only worry about locating a stud (which is REAL easy since I just painted over the screw heads) for really heavy things, which, so far, hasn't been anything.

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[Robert Engel]

If you stud it out use 1/2" ply instead of drywall you won't regret it.
I used armorflex and surface mounted all my outlets and conduit. Metal boxes and face plates.
Cost is more than standard wiring but this allows me to add/alter any thing I want as time goes by if I add or move a machine.
Other than that you will have to put an outlet about every 4 feet along the wall.

[Larry Frank]

I finished my shop with drywall and then used a French cleat system for cabinets. I made certain my studs were exactly 16" OC. Install twice as many circuits as you think you will need both 110 and 220.

I would run wires for cable TV as you may want it later and easy with open walls. I would check and see what kind of Wi-Fi signal you have and consider if you need to run Ethernet cable.

Last, before you put up your drywall or plywood on the walls, take pictures showing studs and wires.

[Tom Porter]

Wow! A lot of great ideas, most of which hadn't occurred to me. I really appreciate all the help! Now if I can just get the shop cleaned up enough to start working on it....

[Roger Feeley]

I'm a big fan of using a satellite load center. Mine is a 50 amp breaker box run to a 50 amp breaker in the main panel. That sets up a definite line between what you (the amateur) own and what the licensed electrician owns. I've had such a load center in two houses and now it's in storage waiting to be installed in my newest shop when we finish building. It has space for about a dozen breakers which has been just fine. I wire everything downstream from that box and let the electricians mess with the house wiring. Electricians love me for it.

If you do do the load center, jazz it up with a nice big cutoff switch set low on the wall so little kids can reach it. Even when my daughter was 10 years old, she knew to go pull the big red lever if Daddy got into trouble (never had to do it). The cutoff is also handy when I'm working on adding things.

I still keep some basic light connected to the main breaker but if I shut down the shop, I pretty much lose everything. I retain just enough light so I can work on the wiring.

[Rob Lee CT]

Think hard about how you're going to organize and clean up every day - then design. I had a basement shop with exposed studs, and there was dust everywhere that wasn't cobwebbed. If you put up stud walls, cover them - or you'll spend way too much time vacuuming schmutz out of the stud bays.

Now, my freestanding shop has 10' walls with a band of AC plywood from 2' to 6', drywall below and above. It's great to be able to hang things wherever I want. Use double gang electrical boxes (4 outlets in a box) or outlet strips and you'll have plenty of places to plug in. In re # circuits, I ran wire in the walls, but the surface mount MC Lite armored cable idea is affordable and convenient, especially if you're not sure how the shop layout will evolve. Guaranteed: you'll need dust collection, and you won't know where it's needed until you've lived in the shop for a while.

Good luck!

[greg Dickinson]

I was wondering if the OSB trapped "dust" since it is a rough surface?

[greg Dickinson]

+1.
And consider using something more solid that drywall.
Half of my basement is finished so I already had a stud wall down the middle. It had flimsy peg board, which I ripped out and replaced with 7/16' OSB. The opposite wall is just block. I painted everything with ultra white to reflect as much light as possible.

I can put a nail or screw anywhere in the OSB wall without regard to studs. I only worry about locating a stud (which is REAL easy since I just painted over the screw heads) for really heavy things, which, so far, hasn't been anything.

After-1.jpg After-2.jpg

100_3522.jpg 100_3524.jpg

I was thinking of using OSB but was worried about dust build up since OSB is a rough finish, what has been your experience.

[Mel Fulks]

The OSB varies, because it can,I guess. Some batches are smooth as marble,been tempted to buy some even when I did not need any. But the rougher pieces might hold some dust.

[Ole Anderson]

The OSB varies, because it can,I guess. Some batches are smooth as marble,been tempted to buy some even when I did not need any. But the rougher pieces might hold some dust.

that is one reason you paint it with satin paint

[Steve Kinnaird]

I was wondering if the OSB trapped "dust" since it is a rough surface?

I put OSB on the ceiling and the walls. Just handling it you can easily feel the roughness and even get a sliver. All that indicated that it will more than likely collect dust. I put 2 coats paint on all OSB. It also brightened up the shop. White ceilings and light yellow on the walls.

Before paint
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After paint
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[Jim Becker]

While a lot of folks use OSB for this purpose, it wasn't "designed" to be exposed which also explains the inconsistency in "finish" you'll find. It's supposed to be an underlayment/sheathing material where it will be covered by other "finer" products. But the price is right for some other applications like shop walls and as long as you paint it well, it will look reasonably decent and be less apt to splinter off.