Finishing my workshop..suggestions?

[Tom Porter]

I'm a relatively new woodworker. My shop is in my unfinished basement and is decently sized. I need more electrical outlets so I'm planning on on putting up studs to mount them on. So I might as well hang drywall and finish it off at the same time. I'm wondering what I might want to do before hanging the drywall. Should I run ducting for a dust collection system I currently don't have? 220 power on a few outlets despite not having equipment that run off it? Any other suggestions?

I don't think there is any chance I would ever convert this from a workshop to living space, so if I decide not to do something (such as dust collection ducting) it's not a big deal. Just wondering what others might suggest.

[Nathan Callender]

Look into a multi wire branch circuit. That way you can run one 220/110 circuit around the whole shop.

I don't think I would try to put dust collection in a wall. Also, do you really need to stud the place out? I wouldn't do it unless I wanted to insulate.

[Tom Porter]

I'm leaning toward studding out for a couple of reasons. Organization is not my strong suit, so I'm hoping that finishing it will allow me to install shelves and maybe a french cleat storage system that will encourage me to be better organized. I also think it will be easier for me to keep it clean. And I'm planning on finishing part of my garage into a mud room. Since I've never done it before, doing my workshop first will allow me to learn what I'm doing a bit and practice in a place where mistakes wouldn't matter.

[Brian Tymchak]

I would wire at least 3 circuits -1 for lights, 1 for power tools and general power needs, and then 1 for a dust collecter. I also have a basement shop, fully finished. I started with tools that use 120V. I am starting to look at upgrading tools and will have to run 220V circuit somehow. If you plan to close the walls, I'd recommend wiring in a 220 circuit.

[Joe Beaulieu]

Hey Tom,

I had that exact layout in my home in Massachusetts. Full basement as a shop with exposed joists and exposed studs on the kneewalls etc. I really utilized the studs and joists for things like outlets and hanging task lighting and running DC ducting. They are also a great place to store stuff. Now I happen to be 6' 10 " tall, so I had no issue reaching stuff stored in an 8' high ceiling. YMMV - :-) However the convenience of open studding should not be disregarded. You can put up plywood where you need to hang tools etc, but if I were in your position I would leave it all exposed. Maybe paint it to brighten it up, but its a shop. Make it rustic! There are lots of benefits.

Joe

[Hayes Rutherford]

Tom, pre wire for all anticipated electrical needs for sure. You could always bring conduit down the walls if you don't stud out the walls. Wire for ample lighting and include at least a couple smoke detectors that are wired in with others in your living space. Finally, insulate and cover the ceiling with 5/8 fire rated sheetrock. A spark smoldering under your table saw, or an oily rag catching on fire can sure ruin your day.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Your shop will evolve over time. I'm sure even people with years of experience move to a new space and don't get it right the first time, or ever for that matter. Forget the studs and walls, it takes up space, time, and money. You can still hang things on cement and it is much easier to change things around as your needs change.

[terry mccammon]

When you are running power consider putting all of the circuits, except for lighting in a daughter panel you can lock out. Then if you have children/visitors/whatever who need to come into the space but should be protected from themselves you have locked out all chance of harm from machinery but can still turn on the lights. This is also useful if you like to disconnect machinery that can be harmed in the event of electrical activity (lightening, brown out, etc).

[Daniel O'Neill]

I'm pretty new to WW also and I wired my garage with only 110 and already regret it after 6 months. While I can purchase all the tools I need that will run on 110 I could have had some nice used tools that run on 220 if I had wired with 220. I'm already thinking I might put in 1 outlet near the box and use a cord. I don't know a lot about electrical but someone above mentioned a branch circuit. It sounds like a great idea.

[Val Kosmider]

Cable TV Feed. I am not a big TV watcher, but there are times when I could be watching a college hoops game out of the corner of my eye while sanding or doing some other mundane task. No cable...or TV...yet.

If you don't have a cell phone, put a phone extension in...and possibly an internet feed. Having a computer in the next room over, it is not a big deal for me, but if you need to run upstairs to see a video or search some tool/procedure, having access right in the shop is handy.

[Tom Porter]

Thanks for all the advice. A lot of good suggestions. Hadn't thought about the TV idea but that's a pretty good one. And the power ideas are good, too. Luckily, I have time to mull them all over before I'll be ready to move forward.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Hi Tom,

First of all welcome to the obsession
Here is a link to my workshop. I started it in July and am getting closer to being fully functional.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...come-A-Reality

I was told that I did a lot of over kill. But I have no reason to look back and wish I had done it better.
Do it once, do it right and you will always enjoy your shop.

You mentioned Drywall. Very cost effective, but OSB is not much more and you can nail or screw things where ever you want, Plus you won't poke a hole in it by accident.

Most important thing....... Enjoy the journey !!!!!

[Jim Dwight]

I'm still working on my second dedicated shop. Both had only 1 20A 120V circuit for tools (plus a lighting circuit I can use a little for tools too) and I have been happy with this arrangement. I had the last shop about 15 years. I've been making sawdust for more than 40 years. So I am pretty much decided on what I want for tools and none of them are 220V. But if I put in a 2hp DC as I may, I might be in trouble for power. My 1 hp will work off the lighting circuit but doesn't have enough suction for the planner or jointer. So maybe I will regret not running a second circuit yet. It isn't the end of the world if I have run another one but the 2 car garage for cars has a finished ceiling I would have to cut a strip out of to run the wire. Right now I'm using my shop vac with a dust deputy and it's working pretty well for me. My shop is small and I'd rather not have to give up space for a DC too. So I'm trying to make the shop vac setup work. I need it anyway for the track saw and sanders.

I think walls should be studded and insulated. You didn't say where you live but in a mild climate, I get by with insulation but no heat or AC. It would be hard to get by with no heat, AC, or insulation. I use 7/16 waferboard for walls and skim coat it with drywall compound before painting it white. The walls are very sturdy and I can hang things anywhere. Sometimes the waferboard is cheaper than drywall.

[Steve Kinnaird]

I live in Central Florida on the Space Coast.
Was helping a friend build some cake stands (boxes) tonight and had to have the AC running. Only a few days so far that made me think about heat.
Post some PICS when you get a chance.

[roger wiegand]

Consider something other than drywall on the walls, eg plywood, pegboard, or slatboard to give you the ability to hand most anything most anywhere. My prior shop had pegboard, but I got tired of the way the hangers always fell out when I moved stuff. Slatboard in the current shop which is better. Much to be said for plywood where you can just pop a screw or nail in where you need it and it doesn't move.