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Thread: Garage door

  1. #1

    Garage door

    I am in the process of building a frame and panel exterior door from treated 2bi material with 1/2 thick treated ply panels. I am debating between epoxy or construction adhesive for the glue, which would be better or any other suggestions would be appreciated.
    thanks

  2. #2
    I'm no authority on finishes or adhesives but I do know that most epoxies hav every poor resistance to UV exposure and also, do not tolerate movement of the substrate like you might experience in an exterior wood application. Curious to hear others' input.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Loza View Post
    I'm no authority on finishes or adhesives but I do know that most epoxies hav every poor resistance to UV exposure and also, do not tolerate movement of the substrate like you might experience in an exterior wood application. Curious to hear others' input.

    Erik
    Unless painted epoxy has poor UV resistance, but the inside of the joint shouldn't see any UV. I patched the floor of a sail boat with epoxy/glass and didn't bother to paint it. Each year it got yellower and yellower, but didn't show any real problems.

    6 years ago I built a patio table out with epoxy, and two years ago helped build a large boat with nothing but epoxy (and wood obviously...). Both are doing fine.

  4. #4
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    I built a wood garage door of regular 2 x 4's and T-11 panels that lasted in NW PA for over 20 years. The door was on the south side of an unheated building. I used Woodworker II glue and made all the joints as mortise and tenon. The panels were set in grooves in the 2 x 4's rails and stiles. The door was painted on the exterior only with regular exterior house paint.
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  5. #5
    I'd be thinking hardware. Well chosen , well placed, no need for adhesives.

  6. #6
    caulk & paint so water stays out of the joint and you can use titebond II or III if you want

  7. #7
    Let us know how it goes and post pics!

  8. #8
    Geeze, my bad. Looking at my post it sounds as I am building an overhead door. The door is an over sized entry door for a garage. Same principal as it's a 3 panel door. Since it will be painted I have started the glue up using TB 2. Sorry for the confusion.

  9. #9
    Epoxy is a great choice. UV can discolor it (as well as most other resins) over time, but this is only a concern when you are using it as a coating. Glue joints will remain strong as they are not exposed to UV. A decent quality epoxy in your joinery will outlast your wood.

    Dan

  10. #10
    What's a T-11 panel?

  11. #11
    If the treated lumber is wet, like it usually is, the joints will come apart when the wood shrinks. Dry treated lumber, or regular construction lumber, would work fine. I would look for actual pine construction lumber and use that. Spruce rots easily but pine is fine.

  12. #12
    Construction adhesive (Liquid Nails) is NOT the way to go. TB or Epoxy will be fine for dry lumber.

  13. #13
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    If the treated lumber is wet, like it usually is, the joints will come apart when the wood shrinks. Dry treated lumber, or regular construction lumber, would work fine. I would look for actual pine construction lumber and use that. Spruce rots easily but pine is fine.
    That right there....
    Doug Fir would be my choice and TBII or TBII would be my choice of glue.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  14. #14
    I used tight bond 3 on wood shed doors, solid cedar , and they have weathered 2 winters here in northern Maine. One coat of oil based log finish. Drove through one of them with the tractor, don't ask, glued it back up a a year ago. These doors are by fold 7 high by 12 wide so they get a lot of twisting and abuse. Dan

  15. #15
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    I am afraid I have to agree with Jim Dwight's assessment. I bought #1 (no knots) kiln dried pressure treated Southern Yellow Pine for a porch post and railing replacement job I did and the wood was still very wet. I had to let it dry for a couple of months before construction began. In that time, the dimensions of the lumber changed significantly. If you are using typical frame and panel joints and wood right from the lumber yard, there is a high probability of warpage or outright failure. I'm sorry to be so pessimistic but you need to know this.

    As far as glue selection goes, I have glued cypress Adirondack chairs together with TB III that are exposed to the weather all year long and I have had no joint failures after 4 or 5 years. I have used epoxy for boat building purposes and I am sure it would work well too but it is a PITA to use.

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