Large maple table questions

[Mike Hoyt]

Hey everyone, Ive been asked to build a 4' x 8' ish table of solid maple. It is going to be used as a dining table in a fire station. I think I have the base all figure but my issues are with the top. They would like a "bar top" type finish and I've never used the pour on epoxy finishes. I am also looking for opinions on the thickness of the top to use in a table of this size. I have access to a wide belt so that's not a issue. The finish needs to be quite durable but I'd also like to be able to repair the finish if needed. Also just so you have all the details a large decal will be applied to the top so I need to take that into consideration. Sorry for the long post.

Thanks,
Mike

[Jamie Buxton]

Those pour-on finishes are not a good idea for a wide solid-wood surface. The wood is going to want to expand and contract across the grain, in response to the annual cycle of humidity in the air. The plastic is not going to do that. At the least, the tabletop may cup. At the worst, something will break. If you must use pour-on, a much safer table material is plywood.

If it were me, I'd use a nice thick solid maple top, and a good finish like varnish. Yes, the table is going to get banged up in a fire house. That's inevitable. With a beefy solid lumber top, you just sand off the finish, sand out the dings and scratches, and re-varnish -- good as new.

[Martin Wasner]

The epoxy bar top stuff is pretty flexible. I have not done a top that wide with it, but wouldn't hesitate to use it. It's about as durable a finish you can find.

[Mike Hoyt]

Any idea if there is any issue with finishing over a decal? I suspect it will be fine but obviously I'm only going to get one chance at it

[Martin Wasner]

I think it depends on the vinyl. I tried to cover a decal over and it didn't go so well. I know I've seen it done though. Mine wrinkled even though it was stuck down well, but it was also stuck to wood.

[Sam Murdoch]

I think this an excellent use for WATERLOX - my go too bar top finish. Very durable, easy to apply finish and easy to repair finish.
The decal thing is another issue and I don't know the answer. I would call Waterlox directly and ask. Likely the decal should be applied over the finish.

Having said that here is another product that is being pushed at my wife's place of work - a design/build company. I haven't used it so I'm not recommending just offering an option - http://www.tablelegs.com/monocoat-na...15b8-144523365

Would love some feedback on the MONOCOAT if anyone has any experience to report. Sounds good...

[Martin Wasner]

Likely the decal should be applied over the finish.

I'd bet that's probably it. Seal it with a coat where the decal is going, apply the graphic, then do the flood coat. Open grain woods its good to do a light coat just to seal it and keep air bubbles down. Not an issue with Maple though.

[Steve Schoene]

I definitely agree with those that say to avoid the epoxy. It's not really all that more durable than other good varnishes. It gets hazy, and can craze. When those things happen it become virtually impossible to repair. Waterlox will look good and is durable. Good oil based polyurethane varnishes would be even more durable, with a finish that isn't as crystal clear.

[Mike Hoyt]

So it sounds like the epoxy may not be the best option....the part Im still thinking about is whatever finish I decide to go with I will need to be able to build enough film thickness so I can even out or offset if you will, the thickness of the decal

[David Zaret]

waterlox is a great finish... i'm on my 6th gallon for a big project. that said, note a few things - one, it takes a long time to polymerize and cure. days/weeks. two, it's very, very amber. on maple, it will turn it a deep orange. if it's white/hard maple and you want to preserve the color, i'd seriously consider a spray-on water-based finish such as GF enduro clear poly or sherwin williams chem-aqua plus.

good luck with your project, post pictures!

[Sam Murdoch]

So it sounds like the epoxy may not be the best option....the part Im still thinking about is whatever finish I decide to go with I will need to be able to build enough film thickness so I can even out or offset if you will, the thickness of the decal

Why not make up a template and then simply rout a very very very shallow spot for the decal so that it would be flush before finish? OR rout deeper still and set the decal under glass - just finish the remainder of the unrouted table top.