[OP]
Contributor
Just a quick update on the Lingerie Chest.
Four drawers done. They take 3 full days each to build (1 1/2 weekends). This includes thicknessing/sawing/shaping all the parts, dovetailing, and fitting.
The gaps between the drawers will be sorted out once all are done. There will be 1/16" between the drawers.
And the obligatory dovetail shot
The dovetails increase progressively, as with the size of the drawers.
Next post will be after all the drawers are done.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Member
Highly impressive, and truly an inspiration....for a guy like me who has maybe ten percent of your natural talent, this just makes me want to go out and work in my wood shop all the more....
Contributor
Looking sharp Derek!
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Member
Coming along very nicely,Derek! Up here you'd have a fortune in the woods!
Contributor
Very good stuff.
David
Contributor
Very impressive work.
For some reason an old Beatles song "Eight Days a Week" keeps playing in my head.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Moderator
+1 to all comments below. Thanks for posting. Question on the gaps. How do you deal with creating the side gaps? Do you plane the entire drawer side or just a rabbet on the front edge?
[OP]
Contributor
Hi Prashun
I am not following your question. What "side gaps" are you referring to?
Perhaps you mean fitting the drawers? I dry fit drawers without measuring diagonals or using a square - a little tight is good, just as long as they go into their recess. Then glue up and slide back in to dry. Once dry I fine tune the drawer. This may mean planing the sides.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Moderator
Hi Derek. yes, I meant fitting the drawers.
When you plane the drawer edges to have an even 1/16" gap, do you just plane near the front face, or along the entire depth of the drawer?
That is, say you trim 1/16" off the top edge of the drawer front, do you plane a 1/16" off the top edge of the drawer sides too?
Even trickier: when you plane 1/16" off the side edges of the drawer front, do you plane 1/16" off the drawer sides as well? Doing so will introduce side/side movement along the carriage of the drawer. But NOT doing so will create a rabbet going up and down the drawer side near the drawer front. Unless there is a better way, my solution has been to blend that rabbet into a gentle slope over an inch or two of the drawer side. This makes it less noticeable to anyone but me, but does not (in theory) introduce slop in the drawer travel.
I am sure you have a more elegant solution.
Member
Gee Whiz,Derek!!! How much lingerie does she have?????
Contributor
Apparently enough to motivate him in to building a special cabinet to hold it all.Originally Posted by george wilson
I don't think we will see any pictures of it loaded up or in use outside of our imaginations.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Go Derek, go. She's looking great!
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Member
Beautiful work Derek!!
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Contributor
Very nice Derek. If that jarrah is as hard as you say it must be tricky to work those small pins, doubly so if it is brittle as well. Could that be why you have adopted your drilling methods?
Jim
[OP]
Contributor
James, that is exactly so. This Jarrah, in particular, is too hard to chop into. It splits off well ... sometimes too well.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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