Tuning up some planes

[Brian Akers]

Got around to cleaning up and tuning up some hand planes this weekend.
Still need to file down the mouth of the No. 6 since the new Veritas blade and breaker are too thick.
The No.4 is a Type 10 and the No. 6 is a Type 9. I like a Type 10 better since it has a frog adjustment screw.

No.4 Type 10 before clean up. Ninja the Doberman wanted to help...


After


Before Flattening (No. 4)


After. Some of the pitting remains but would probably need a regrind to remove it all. (No.4)


No. 6 Before


After


On filing the mouth down, I just used a sharpie for my reference line. Is this too much material to take off at one time? about 1/32 or so.

[Jim Koepke]

1/32" is a lot of material from the mouth of a plane. That might be a good amount to remove if this is to become a dedicated scrub plane. I would remove a little, check, repeat as necessary. More material can always be removed later. Once it is gone, it is nigh impossible to put it back.

I removed about that much from the back of the mouth of a #3 a few days ago because of a chip in the metal. The mouth seems a lot bigger now.

I used a sacrificial frog to guide my file along the back of the mouth. If you do not have a spare frog, tape can be used to protect a good frog.

jtk

[Chris Hachet]

I generally never open the mouths of metal planes. Hock blades will fit right in without any additional material removal from my experience. Why, out of curiosity, are you opening the mouth?

Regards,

Chris

[Brian Akers]

I generally never open the mouths of metal planes. Hock blades will fit right in without any additional material removal from my experience. Why, out of curiosity, are you opening the mouth?

Regards,

Chris

I got a Veritas blade and breaker for Christmas and finally getting around to using them but they're too think. I've tried adjusting the frog every which way but they are just too thick.

[Jim Koepke]

Of all my planes it seems the #6s have the tightest mouths. Even a Stanley blade is a bit tight in one of them.

jtk

[Joe Bailey]

From your last photo, the scribed line leads me to believe that you are attempting to remove metal from the side of the mouth closest to the frog.

I recommend you remove metal from the opposite side (that closest to the front knob)

[Jim Koepke]

From your last photo, the scribed line leads me to believe that you are attempting to remove metal from the side of the mouth closest to the frog.

I recommend you remove metal from the opposite side (that closest to the front knob)

Removing from the front of the mouth is easier. After mulling this over time and time again, it is difficult to perceive any advantage to removing metal from the front versus the rear of the mouth. Most of the time a frog has enough free movement to overcome any adjustment advantage of one or the other.

jtk

[Glen Canaday]

That's supposed to be a fore plane. Why on earth do you need a cutter that won't fit?

Have you checked to see if the adjuster yoke can actually engage the cap iron through the cutter prior to the irreversable modification?

This is a very common problem with planes that are not designed for irons that are that thick.

[Chris Hachet]

I have a #6 with a tight mouth but have no troubles with the original blade staying sharp. Keep us posted on how it works with the new blade. My #5 became my fav plane after I put a Hock blade in it.

[Brian Akers]

From your last photo, the scribed line leads me to believe that you are attempting to remove metal from the side of the mouth closest to the frog.

I recommend you remove metal from the opposite side (that closest to the front knob)

Thanks Joe! I've seen it both ways. That was just the way I chose. I'll re-seat everything again and take another look. It might be better to go at the front instead.

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks Joe! I've seen it both ways. That was just the way I chose. I'll re-seat everything again and take another look. It might be better to go at the front instead.

Some suggest a slight bevel be added if the front of the mouth is filed. The purpose is to help clear shavings.

The bevel slope would be the opposite of the slope of the frog. Tight at the bottom, wide at the top.

jtk

[Joe Bailey]

Some suggest a slight bevel be added if the front of the mouth is filed. The purpose is to help clear shavings.

The bevel slope would be the opposite of the slope of the frog. Tight at the bottom, wide at the top.

jtk

+1 to this

The reason to file at the front edge of the mouth is to leave unmolested the ramp ground into the rear edge of the mouth, which follows the slope of the face of the frog.

[Jim Koepke]

+1 to this

The reason to file at the front edge of the mouth is to leave unmolested the ramp ground into the rear edge of the mouth, which follows the slope of the face of the frog.

That is why most who mention taking metal from the back of the mouth also suggest using a frog with tape on it to guide the file.

jtk