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Thread: Delta 46-250

  1. #1

    Delta 46-250

    Hi, I'm looking for a little help. I am going to look at the Delta model 46-250 lathe tomorrow. It comes with a bed extension, and a Nova Chuck, and there may be a possibility to make a deal on some gouges, etc. The seller says there is some light surface rust. Is that a big deal? How difficult to get it cleaned up? It's basically the same size midi lathe that several different brands offer. Thanks,

    Kevin

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Harrisburg, NC
    Posts
    814
    It all depends on what is called "surface rust". For most folks it is not a big problem at all.
    You probably don't want deep pitting.
    After a clean up with a wire brush go to an auto store (PepBoys, Advance, Napa, etc) and get a small container of rust converter.
    Just brush it on and it converts any remaining rust to iron phosphate. The old rust will turn black and you can go over it with 0000 steel wool and wax if you wish.
    "I became insane, with long intervals of horrible sanity." - Edgar Allan Poe

  3. #3
    I agree with Michael. No pitting in the rust. Otherwise it is easily removed. I have 2 of these lathes, and they are good lathes.
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  4. #4
    Thanks for the replies.

  5. #5
    Be sure to check the belt condition. It's hard to get a replacement. Also, make sure there is no deep rust in the head and tail stock tapers.
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  6. #6
    Hi Brian,

    I didn't see your admonition about the belt until I had bought the lathe. The belt is shot, but I found a replacement on tool parts direct, for $20.00. It is supposed to ship today, or tomorrow. Does this seem right, or is there something else I should know? Before I confirmed, I found several on eBay, for $17.00, and free shipping.
    Last edited by Stewart Campbell; 02-11-2016 at 1:46 PM.

  7. #7
    I used the Loctite rust neutralizer, which is a converter. The directions say to do 2 coats, and let it cure for 24 hours. Does this seem right? So, once I wait, do I use the steel wool to get all the product off of the parts where I applied it? Of course the bed is where most went, but I used it on the screw part of the headstock, and some screws, as well as the lever for raising and lowering the motor to change speeds.

  8. #8
    Yeah, It sounds like you did all right. That's only about $2 more than I paid about 6 years ago. I'm glad you found them so easily.
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  9. #9
    Hi Michael, should I be trying to remove all the black when I go over with the steel wool?


    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Mills View Post
    It all depends on what is called "surface rust". For most folks it is not a big problem at all.
    You probably don't want deep pitting.
    After a clean up with a wire brush go to an auto store (PepBoys, Advance, Napa, etc) and get a small container of rust converter.
    Just brush it on and it converts any remaining rust to iron phosphate. The old rust will turn black and you can go over it with 0000 steel wool and wax if you wish.

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