I made a new thing!!! and more questions?

[Steve Russell tucker]

Hello all Its me again, SO i made a toolIMG_20160211_243230142.jpg!!!! its maple and i haven't put a finish on it yet I don't know that i will but I had a ton of fun doing it !and now for the new guy questions... I've seen a a few videos and a few guy have been putting the drive center right in the chuck instead of taking it off ...Is that ok to do ? i mean its not a huge deal to take the chuck off I just wanna know if i can skip that step??? ,also as you can see i made this carbide tool and it doesn't seem like its cutting as well as I thought it would ,Is that me? like how I'm holding the tool or is it the cutter I bought it brand new so I cant see it being that but I'm just looking for some guidance from anyone who has made their own tools . As always thank you all for any and all advice you can give and have a great day!.
Thanks again ,
S.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Get us a close up of the cutter end so I can at least know what type of carbide tool this is. Some are really scrapers, and some are cutters. The tip should be level at the center of the object being turn (spindle center), and do not lower handle or you'll be in for some dangerous excitement. I prefer to have a square shank on these tools, like the Easy-Wood shanks, as that helps to keep the carbide level. They can be very aggressive, so be careful.

[Roger Chandler]

I have put the drive center in the chuck, when I have wanted to size the tenon to fit the jaws ......it is one way of doing it, but just keep the jaws tight, and be aware that if you were to get a big catch, you could scar up the morse taper on your spur drive.

[Steve Russell tucker]

Thank you Very much Mr.Chandler I wasn't sure of the down side to putting it in the chuck I'll probably keep changing it til i get a little more comfortable but thank you for the insight , and Mr.Greenbaum Here is a close up of the cutterIMG_20160211_144915404.jpgIMG_20160211_145333449.jpg I have a square one as well that I plan to put on a square piece of metal I thought the round one would be easier to move but Your right square would most likely be safer

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Just for your info, there are several drive spurs that are designed to go in a chuck. The MT spurs can be put in the chuck, but as Roger says, be careful and be aware that you may have to buy a new one.... If you like the ease of the spur in the chuck, I'd buy one designed for that. Save the MT spur. I dont like to use my chuck drive spur because the chuck gets in the way. The wood is very close to the chuck. BUT I never thought of sizing the tenon that way....
Square shanks make it harder to rotate the cutter to do shearing cuts, but I do think they are better to keep the square cutter flat. I made mine round, and wish I hadn't. I'd leave your round cutter on the round shank though. I do many cuts with the round cutter at an angle.
Nice job on the handle. I put minimal finish on my handles, more finish makes it slippery-er.

[Steve Russell tucker]

Thank You sir , I didn't know they made drive centers to fit in chucks either I will look into one of those ,but for now I kinda feel like doing tenons would be a lot easier but I don't want to mess up the only center i have ( I'm really new at this ) so I'll probably just keep switching back and forth when needed, now for the cutters...are those ones the right ones? I mean the round seems to be OK but just OK I kinda thought it would be a whole lot better to do hollowing type stuff with because I don't own a bowl gouge at all and I figured this way was cheaper and after watching a few videos and seeing people use them to hollow I went with it but I think i may be holding the angle to steep I need to play with it some more and figure that out . again thank you all so very much I learn tons of new stuff on here every day !!
Thanks again !!,
S.

[Len Mullin]

Steve, you will likely experience a few severe catches with that square cutter. Personally, I think that you'd be way farther ahead in the game, if you were to buy a cutter with a 2-4%radius to the edge. I have the R2 and the R4 square cutters, the R stands for radius, the number designates the degree the edge is set at.
Len

[John Keeton]

Steve, as an aside, you have recessed the cutter into the shank quite a bit and there isn't much metal supporting the cutter. A good catch could bend the shank or break the cutter out of the recess.

[john snowdon]

Hi, Steve!

Nice handle and very cool you made the tool. You may wish to protect both by adding a ferrell to the handle to protect it and you if/when you have one of those severe catches.

[Mark Greenbaum]

I agree with the "too deep of recess into the shank" comment. Cut it off and don't go so deep next time. Perhaps flatten the bottom of the shaft to try to keep it from rolling when you use it. I have a Harrison Specialties golf club Simple Shear Cutting Finisher (16") - Round Carbide carbide rougher, and because of the round steel shaft it always tends to roll over. Gets a bit dicey at times.

[Steve Russell tucker]

Thank you Sir! I have some copper tubing i plan to use as a ferrell once i get this cutter situated right thank you again and also to everyone else I truly dont know what I would do without this SMC and all of you giving such great advice thank you all again thank you !
S.