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Thread: New Nos. 3 and 4.5 ebony infills

  1. #1
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    New Nos. 3 and 4.5 ebony infills

    I'm in the end game with these two ebony infills, one of which seeks to address - the No. 4.5 in the foreground - the risk that the thin neck on my planes might break.


    IMG_4694.jpg

    IMG_4696.jpg

    To this point in my plane making I've chosen to push the design envelope no matter the risk, in large part out of curiosity to see how far I could get without disaster. The good news is that you learn a heck of a lot about wood in doing so. The bad news is -- well, not disaster, exactly, but rather two lessons in the school of hard knocks: An early plane came apart because I left it atop the washing machine one morning only to find it on the floor after my sweet wife turned the machine on. The tote on another split because, in driving a drill bit through it, I neglected to back the bit out to remove waste, causing it to clog.

    Which is to say that none of my clients has sent a plane back because it came apart in use.

    Which is not to say it couldn't happen - or won't.

    Lo, a solution, maybe, in the No. 4.5 - a cross-grain spline running north and south from a point an inch or so down from the top of the crown all the way down to and around the big arc and forward to the bed for the iron. It's about 1/4 inch wide and about as deep, and as you may guess, it took some doing to shape it and get it into the plane; among other things, since the grain on the tote runs east and west, more or less, I had to make the spline such that end grain ended up on the surface.

    In essence, the result ought to add strength to the structure for the same reason that plywood is strong, don't you think? But would the better idea be to insert the spline from inside the hand hole? This might be easier to do, I suspect. It might also reinforce pretty much the entire upper half of the tote.

    Anyway, I invite input from any and all.
    Last edited by Juan Hovey; 02-13-2016 at 12:05 AM. Reason: Add a photo

  2. #2
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    We need to see some shavings.

    If they perform as well as they look, you have winners.

  3. Beautiful planes!!

  4. #4
    Keep in mind I don't make infills, and my tools aren't always the prettiest. Take my opinion with the largest bucket of salt you can find.

    Just a thought. . .If you are stuck on the birds wing aesthetic, and want to increase strength, instead of the spline, change the design slightly.

    One idea would be to thicken the "wing", but twist it in a helical fashion slightly, giving the illusion of not only the wing, but flight as well. This allows a strength benefit, the ability to make it look even more delicate while adding strength, and keeps with both tradition and no need for the spline. (which I could see you having issues with)

    For what its worth, I do think the sneck is a bit thick. No suggestions, just an opinion.
    Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.

  5. #5
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    Sorry for my ignorance. What is a sneck? Also, I like the knurling on the cap screws with the band/ line in them, but not so much on the sharp corners. I would be prone to round the cap screws over a bit. ( Keep in mind I know absolutely nothing about building infills ) What type of stainless do you use? I assume this is 360 brass as well. Do you ever use bronze? See, I told you I know nothing about infills.

  6. #6
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    Matt and Ron - Many thanks for the input. The client who commissioned the No. 4.5 wanted the up-swept crown or horn. It's not meant to resemble a bird's wingspan, incidentally, but rather a bird's head and bill. I was more enamored of this particular element of the design when I made the first several planes incorporating it, as I thought it playful. These days I shape the crown or horn this way only when a client asks.

    Also, I agree that the sneck - the gizmo at the top of the iron, tapped by a small hammer to adjust the depth of cut - could be narrower. It does need to extend across the iron, however, since the iron may need adjusting side to side as well.

    The sides of the planes are 1/4-inch 1018 mild steel, not stainless. The bases are O-1 tool steel. The lever caps are 360 brass; I start with bar stock and shape them mostly by hand. I have used cast bronze lever caps on occasion but prefer brass.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    We need to see some shavings.

    If they perform as well as they look, you have winners.

    Lowell - Shavings coming up as soon as I finish tuning the planes.

  8. #8
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    I like the overall design, and don't dislike the up swept horn. And I have no problem with one pushing the envelope. Make things as thin as you like- if they break, fix them. But the front of the tote just seems too thin to my eye to fit in with the overall look.

  9. #9
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    I thought they are very good looking planes.
    Very nice work Juan.
    I too can hear Georges words.He has some iron in his words for all woodworker to hear.
    To me he was saying keep the function before form,do not break the law of Craftsman ship.
    A worn out tool has a real natural beauty that cannot be matched by man.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    I thought they are very good looking planes.
    Very nice work Juan.
    I too can hear Georges words.He has some iron in his words for all woodworker to hear.
    To me he was saying keep the function before form,do not break the law of Craftsman ship.
    A worn out tool has a real natural beauty that cannot be matched by man.
    I too think they are very good looking planes.

    They look more like they were made with consideration toward being on display and not as if they were made to be put to use, especially a full days vigorous use.

    I do not want to worry about whether or not my plane is going to make it through the day in the process of my work.

    One has to realize "traditional" design wan't thought up by a committee one pleasant afternoon. Many shapes and forms were tried. Some worked, some didn't. Some worked so well the other experiments were abandoned and the makers of tools stayed with what worked, thus becoming the "tradition."

    We can make beautiful tools around the traditional lines. We can add our own variances to tradition. When all is said and done, does the function remain?
    Does the plane, saw or chisel handle transfer the force as it should?
    Does it give the user confidence of lasting function for as long as they will be using the tool?

    Yes Andrew I agree some of my most prized tools have the natural beauty of being used and being cared for over more than a century. Some of their ugliest scars are from people trying to make them look pretty.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. #11
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    I don't believe I ever remarked about the craftsmanship of the planes in question. My remarks were about the design issues.

    I have seen so many very well made things like knives made by hand,at gun shows. Some of them showed first rate craftsmanship,great grinding skills,and other good work. But,their designs are often bizarre to the point of ridiculous. But,knife freaks can be a funny bunch anyway. I don't see how any of them make a living! I have made several,over a period spanning from about 1954 to about 6 years ago,when I made Jon's retirement gift of a nice pocket knife(Thank Heavens he is too afraid to CARRY it!! He has lost at least 3 commercial ones I gave him!!) He's hard on knives! Search for it by trying "A pocket knife I made". That does find it.

    I watched a few episodes of "Forged In Fire",waiting for something GOOD to happen. When they showed the personal "shops" of some of those guys,it was an overgrown patch of weeds in a corner of their back yards(That'd be MOM'S backyard,probably!) Many had home made furnaces made out of insulated trailer bottle propane tanks. And,there's nothing wrong with THAT,really. I have been there. But,it showed hat these guys aren't making 2 coins to rub together.

    WHAT I AM SAYING HERE IS DEVELOPING CRAFTSMANSHIP IS THE EASY PART. Design taste is entirely another matter. Of the approx. 22 people I trained in Williamsburg,I NEVER could teach even ONE of them to draw. Some,with MASTER'S degrees,drew at a 4th. Grade level,really. some became good,even excellent craftsmen AS LONG AS THEY WERE COPYING SOMETHING. Fortunately for some of them,copying is what you are required to do the most of in a museum. That was the part of it I never personally enjoyed,unless,like the surveyor's compass,it was a challenge to make,copy or not.

    So,I really ought to just stop trying to help people learn design. Either it is in your brain or it is not.
    Last edited by george wilson; 02-14-2016 at 3:28 PM.

  12. #12
    PLEASE keep teaching us George. All of it, including design - is greatly appreciated. How many chances will any of us get to learn from someone like you - one who makes gifts that Presidents give to Queens?

    We are fortunate to have you participate in this forum, sharing your knowledge.

    Fred

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juan Hovey View Post
    Matt and Ron - Many thanks for the input. The client who commissioned the No. 4.5 wanted the up-swept crown or horn. It's not meant to resemble a bird's wingspan, incidentally, but rather a bird's head and bill. I was more enamored of this particular element of the design when I made the first several planes incorporating it, as I thought it playful. These days I shape the crown or horn this way only when a client asks.

    Also, I agree that the sneck - the gizmo at the top of the iron, tapped by a small hammer to adjust the depth of cut - could be narrower. It does need to extend across the iron, however, since the iron may need adjusting side to side as well.

    The sides of the planes are 1/4-inch 1018 mild steel, not stainless. The bases are O-1 tool steel. The lever caps are 360 brass; I start with bar stock and shape them mostly by hand. I have used cast bronze lever caps on occasion but prefer brass.

    Thank you. I would never have guessed that to be 1018 mild steel. Or 01 for that matter. Interesting.

  14. #14
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    George, I think EVERYONE here appreciates your input when asked for. Even if it's not what some people want/expected to hear and it takes time to absorb maybe? Not speaking for anyone but I sure have been guilty of typing and sending maybe earlier then I should? Please keep commenting on stuff. What an amazing body of work you bring to the table.

    Juan, I think the planes look incredible and I am so envious of all the various skills they take to make.

  15. #15
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    Some of us cannot learn design (me) but still benefit from trying to learn. Some have a lot invested in their own designs and takes a while for advice to get past the barriers. I see this a lot in photography: good shots can often be great shots with a few tweaks but some folks can't hear because they are too heavily invested in their current position.

    Them as can, does
    Them as can't, teach
    Them as can't teach, administrate.

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