Carbide Turning Tools - What's the verdict?

[Richard Dooling]

Perhaps there is some basic misunderstanding here. Apples and oranges. Just to be clear, some carbide cutters, such as what Mike Hunter uses on his tools, don't have flat tops.

The carbide tools with flat tops I tried some years ago were not capable of producing the kind of clean surface possible with the Hunter tools. The Hunter cutters have razor sharp, beveled cutting edges. The cost is in fact high, but the cutters are round and can be rotated many times to expose new, sharp edges. I've been using the same cutter on one tool for years now.

JKJ

Absolutely. There was a blanket statement that, "carbide cutters are not meant to be resharpened" and I've heard this before. Without mentioning any particular manufacturer I wanted to say that some carbide cutters can be sharpened.

You point out an important point in this discussion. That is that "carbide turning tool" is a very broad description. You mention the Hunter tools which I have not used. It's plain to see though that these are a far cry from the scraper type configuration of many other carbide tools. So perhaps the OP can get more specific feedback on what he can expect from different carbide configurations.

BTW I think the carbide scrapers are a great way to start as they eliminate the need to learn sharpening and get you going fast.

But I personally want to be able to sharpen my tools when needed so I use HSS. In addition to some larger outfits I have Doug Thompson, Dave Schweitzer and Trent Bosch tools. To each his own

[Michael Mills]

I do use a carbide occasionally for roughing but use conventional tools mostly.
My biggest drawback to buying a full carbide tool is the cost.
The cost of the cutter is <$20, OK I can live with that. At $130 for an easy wood tool that means the handle is $110? Yikes.
Their handle is 15" and "brightly colored". You can buy a pre-turned 14" beech handle with ferrule from Packards for $8.95; add on the cost of the shaft ($6?) and a tap and bit of the matched size ($7). There is some minor machining to fit the cutter.
My flat cutters were only $3 each ordering a pack of ten. I'm not sure the more expensive ones last 6X longer but they may.
Guess I'm just too frugal to pay for the bright colors.
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merc...ls-hand-beetoo

[Peter Blair]

Without stealing this thread I wonder if anyone had tried the 'new to me' Rolly Monro hollowing tool which uses a guard and apparently a cupped carbide? I have one of his older models and love it for end grain hollowing but am tempted by the new design. Has anyone here tried both types?

[John K Jordan]

Without stealing this thread I wonder if anyone had tried the 'new to me' Rolly Monro hollowing tool which uses a guard and apparently a cupped carbide? I have one of his older models and love it for end grain hollowing but am tempted by the new design. Has anyone here tried both types?

One of the demonstrators at the TAW Symposium a few weeks ago had the new one. He liked it and said it was an improvement over the older design. Sorry, I can't find it in my notes, can't remember if it was Rudy Lopez or Glenn Lucas.

JKJ

[Bruce Lewane]

I turn laminated bowls out exotic woods. Between the very hard kiln dried wood and CA joints I find Carbide tools to be excellent. While the initial cost is high, the cost of new cutters has dropped a bunch. (Captain Eddie and Arizona Carbides) I use EWT's for roughing and Hunter's for finish cuts. There is still a learning curve. I had to learn to cut like I was shaving a babies butt to get a clean surface. I shave my face with more pressure than I do final cuts on wood.

[David Delo]

I have the full size EWT rougher and finisher. Bought them when I got started turning because at the time I didn't have good sharpening skills and these tools allowed me to complete projects. Fast forward to present day.......have learned how to correctly sharpen lathe tools and use traditional tools currently.

Not always but often enough I'll use the EWT to de-bark a log if I'm making a tall vase. No sense dulling a good SRG. Another use is when I need a smaller diameter tenon than my HTC 125 chucks won't grab is making a nice straight tenon for my PSI tommy bar style chuck that I only have straight jaws for.

Have the Hunter #1 for hollowing and that little sucker can remove some material FAST. Love it. Also have the #4 cutter on a sphere jig and when rotated in shear scrap mode leaves an outstanding finish. If I did little boxes more often I'd probably invest in a few of Mike's bars.

[glenn bradley]

I am a talentless hobbyist with a whole rack of turning tools. I am finding I do 80% of the work with my carbide tools, and have more turning time with less sharpening. Might be different story if I was doing it seriously or making more than basic things.

I will add to this. I am NOT a turner but, do sometimes need to turn something. For a knuckle-dragging, slack-jawed troglodyte I can do pretty much what I need to do, much quicker, with the carbide tools as I found almost no learning curve for someone who is familiar with the characteristics of wood and he cutting thereof. Someone who wants to turn as a craft would need a broader compliment of tools just as I need a wide array of tools for my work. For those of us who turn only when they have to, I was able accomplish my goal with minimal skill using a round, square and diamond carbide tool plus a cutoff tool.

[Richard Dooling]

So I really had not planned on posting again to this thread but then I found this video from Ken Rizza at WoodTurners Wonders.

I normally do this with finger pressure on a diamond plate on a bench but then again -

Power sharpening a flat carbide bit
http://woodturnerswonders.com/blogs/...tool-bit-video

[Bruce Lewane]

Pretty slick. I've been using a jig I found in a youtube video but I'll have to give this a try.

[John K Jordan]

John, Thanks for the reply.
Is the Osprey shown the #1? And the other tools the "Carbide Woodturning #1 taper" set?

I see the difference in the angle of the cutter in the Osprey, compared with the other straight tool. How would you describe the difference in their performance or use?

The angles make the tools a little easier to use especially when used in the "bevel-rubbing" mode like you would use a bowl gouge, but they all can (and need) to be held at somewhat of an angle unless you are holding one straight for scraping. I forgot - did you see the videos John Lucas has done on these? He has some good info. I like the control I get from the Osprey. (I don't remember the #) I also really like the Hercules which are angled too. The big one feels massive, especially in a heavy handle.

I see he as some sets now but I bought all those individually. If possible, try some out before you buy - anyone in your club have some you could try?

I tried calling Mike just now to see what he would recommend but he didn't answer; he might be at a show.

JKJ

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Without stealing this thread I wonder if anyone had tried the 'new to me' Rolly Monro hollowing tool which uses a guard and apparently a cupped carbide? I have one of his older models and love it for end grain hollowing but am tempted by the new design. Has anyone here tried both types?

Is the "old" Munro a flat cutter? I not too recently bought a cutter system, and it has the Hunter style cupped disk, if that is the new thing. It's a nice tool, but it does clog, and very hard to set up to get clean cuts. By that I mean the cutter stays clean and un clogged. I found that changing the wood you're cutting can make it clog or not clog. Perhaps I need to take just the smallest of shavings, but at times, I want to hog off as much as I can and this cutter can do it. But it does clog when hogging off wood. Well, you do have to pull the cutter out to clear shavings, may as well clean off the clogged cutter. Couldn't you just buy a new cutter head if you have the old system? Oh, end grain rarely clogs regardless of the setup, it's the long grain that clogs. It takes off wood fast. Don't know if you do urn hollowing, but the head is a bit large, and hard to get into a pet urn with a small opening.