Essential VFD controls for drill press?

[Anthony Whitesell]

I'm not sure how much time I can give this over the next couple days but thanks for the input. M Toupin, all the parts are purchased. The install is complete except for the remote controls.

Edit: Anthony, in looking at page 28, the first PNP (F06 = 000) example is pretty much the switch I've got. The manufacturer calls it NO/NC but it can be wired NO/OFF/NO by tying the poles together.

I've attached another diagram showing my switch with the poles connected and an extra node between the two "S" terminals representing the middle no-connection position. When the switch is to the left, power engages the reverse function. In the middle position, both switches are open -- essentially "STOP". To the right, the forward command works.

Any reason this wouldn't be the same as separate on/off and forward/reverse switches? sh

Attachment 331917

The difference between start/stop-fwd/rev and fwd-stop-rev has to do with a combination of the programming of the inputs and the way the switch works. As you mentioned the rotary switch is essentially a SPDT switch, where only one side or the other can be connected at a time. From your new diagram you have either input S1 OR S2. This would allow you to use F06=000 per page 28.

If you used two separate SPST switches, one for start/stop and one for fwd/rev, then F06=001 would apply. To run fwd, close S1 and open S2. To run reverse, close S1 AND close S2. Therein lies the problem with using the SPDT switch (or the 3pos rotary you have). You can't close both S1 and S2 at the same time, so you can not issue the start input and the reverse input at the same time. Using the 3pos rotary switch would allow you three options: (1) start fwd, (2) stop fwd, and (3) stop reverse (S1 closed/S2 open, S1 and S2 open, S1 open/S2 closed).

[Skip Helms]

Sorry to be so thick. Why would you want Forward and Reverse on at the same time? In the manual it say that results in "stopped mode". I was hoping that when neither of them are on they are also in stopped mode. Other than that, this is a garden-variety on-off-on toggle switch. In the left position, Reverse is on and Forward is off. In the middle position, neither of them is on. In the right position, Forward is on and Reverse is off.

What am I missing here? Thanks, sh

[Dick Strauss]

Skip,
I've wired plenty of VFDs the way you suggest with a three position switch. Make sure that both contact blocks for the for/rev are normally open (NO). Run DC source wires to feed both blocks. For/rev will both have their own separate connection and wire at the VFD. The middle position acts as a stop since neither the for or rev VFD connections are seeing voltage because of the NO contact blocks for For/Rev. You will need to change the VFD settings to account for this setup.

[Skip Helms]

Thanks Dick, One more mystery solved.

I've bailed on the idea of a momentary switch but I'm thinking maybe an E-switch would be a good choice -- maybe at knee level like on my table-saw. I'm making some headway in the manual and what I think I know is that if you use the S3 terminal on F13 set at 005, you can program emergency stop deceleration independent of the regular stop speed on F4. If that's not the case -- or if it doesn't really matter -- it would be just as easy to park a N/C switch on the DC supply wire upstream of the R-S-F switch.

Once I get that in my brain, it will be time to start smoke testing this bad boy.

Cheers, sh

[Anthony Whitesell]

Sorry to be so thick. Why would you want Forward and Reverse on at the same time? In the manual it say that results in "stopped mode". I was hoping that when neither of them are on they are also in stopped mode. Other than that, this is a garden-variety on-off-on toggle switch. In the left position, Reverse is on and Forward is off. In the middle position, neither of them is on. In the right position, Forward is on and Reverse is off.

What am I missing here? Thanks, sh

You wouldn't. Normally. But what is you wired Page 28 F06=000 with two SPST switches? Then you could end up with FWD and REV both on, both off, or only one on.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Thanks Dick, One more mystery solved.

I've bailed on the idea of a momentary switch but I'm thinking maybe an E-switch would be a good choice -- maybe at knee level like on my table-saw. I'm making some headway in the manual and what I think I know is that if you use the S3 terminal on F13 set at 005, you can program emergency stop deceleration independent of the regular stop speed on F4. If that's not the case -- or if it doesn't really matter -- it would be just as easy to park a N/C switch on the DC supply wire upstream of the R-S-F switch.

Once I get that in my brain, it will be time to start smoke testing this bad boy.

Cheers, sh

F13 does set the function for S3, but 005 is jog. 006 is estop and is preconfigured for S4 on F14. (1) I would stick with your schematic as drawn, it looks good so far (besides, perhaps some incorrectly noted parameters). And (2) I prefer to change as few settings as possibly; that way when it dies, I don't have to figure out as many to enter into the new VFD.

I wonder if we are looking at the same manual. Could be trouble if we aren't. (wondering about your reference to F4 above).

According to the manual at https://www.tecowestinghouse.com/Man...ing_manual.pdf
Page 31 states for F11-14 set to 006 to indicate Estop input:
"Upon receiving an external Emergency Stop signal the inverter will decelerate to a stop by thevalue set by C12, the 2nd deceleration time setting regardless of the F09 deceleration settingand the display will flash ―E.S‖. The inverter will restart only when the Emergency Stop signalis removed and the start signal is removed and re-asserted (remote mode), or the Run key ispushed (keypad mode). Removing the Emergency Stop signal before the inverter has fullystopped will not cancel the Emergency Stop operation. The output relay can be set toEmergency Stop fault by setting F21=008."

And on page 44 C12 has this neat reference:
"C12 Deceleration time 2 (s): 00.1 – 999 (Always used for emergency Stop reference)"

[Skip Helms]

I have two of these switches. One has two contact blocks and the other only one. Individually, they act like a NO/off/NO switch. In the center position there is no continuity between between any of the contacts. I think the NC/NO designation is for use with multiple contact blocks with multiple functions. For my purposes, I could have used a mini-toggle on-off-on but I like the idea of needing some deliberate attention to change the operating status. You can't accidentally turn this switch on or off. I may even stick a little bolt into the face so I can't activate reverse unless I know I want to -- the hillbilly equivalent of separate F/R and Run/off switches. So the one-block switch will work fine here.

Anthony: I really appreciate your patience. I'm on page 31 now and see the 006 E-stop designation. So S4 on F14 it is. I need to do a second ergonomic pantomime where the drill press will actually be to see where to put the switch. Not on the head. I've got a switch there. Certainly not on the panel -- to close to the work area. Probably on the radial arm saw which is immediately to the right. I'll be trying to get my hands away from any problems so a backhand slap on the base of the saw is within quick reach. I'm pretty sure I have some 2-conductor shielded wire in the bin. I built a lot of guitar amps and always have leftovers to justify building another one (can't let it go to waste now, can we?).

The main shield idea I got from the Jack English videos. It is a stainless steel shrouded dishwasher hose. The ID is only about 5/16" so I lopped off the ends, pulled the tube and fitted a 1/2" IP fitting on with a hose-clamp. The donor fitting hose came with a brass nipple so I get excellent continuity to the main panel box. The shield squishes-down to half its original length so no guessing on the exact size. My press has an internal channel in the casting for just that sized cable so I can run all the control wires and the tach cable inside it right to the junction box on the head.

The linear actuator controls are also in the panel box. I think I mentioned this press was made before new-fangled table-height cranks. You have to loosen the bolt and finesse it (and whatever's on it) into position. In studying the issue a lot of people said this was hard on their backs. I haven't noticed that so much but the bigger issue is that you really have to lay into the bolt to get it to hold position. Now that I've de-rusted the pillar, it's even slipperier. I was able to get a Duff-Norton 12" 120v unit on Ebay for forty-something dollars because someone at the factory over-tightened one of the bolts and cracked a pot-metal flange on the housing. Usually they go for $350. With some U-bolts and pipe fittings I think I have a solid base. I'll get some pictures up after the grand opening. It will double as an extension for the RA saw at the right height.

I think I can get to smoke test over the weekend. Wish me luck, sh

[Dick Strauss]

I use an e-stop, for/stop/rev, and a speed pot in a box with magnetic attachment points that can be remotely placed on the tool where it best suits me given what I'm doing at the time. It also allows me to use one VFD for mutliple tools at different times if I choose to do so.

Just my two cents...

[Skip Helms]

Dick, how do you wire the E-stop? Thanks, sh

[Anthony Whitesell]

Typically emergency stop switches are normally closed, supplying a positive signal to the input terminal. In this way, if the wire to the estop switch breaks, the "OK" signal will be lost and the equipment will be shutdown. Ie., broken wire and estop press has the same result of lost signal at the input terminal. I would hope this VFD works the same way, though I see no indication in the TECO manual is the estop switch should be NO or NC. On the bright side, you can't blow up the VFD if you get it wrong. The display will show ES and the VFD will not run.

[Skip Helms]

I ran the first smoke test last night but without the remote controls. Almost everything worked perfectly. The un-perfect part was that I have a noisy bearing in the pulley assembly. My old motor needed new bearings too. With a silent new motor, it was easy to isolate. I took that apart (with some persuasion) and one of the two 3205 bearings had that tell-tale metal-on-metal sound. It still works but I can't see putting this much work into the project and listening to that.

The lower bearing seems fine and the spindle is still smooth as silk. Fortunately, this model press uses bearings that are still made although they aren't cheap if purchased retail. There seem to be lots of NOS first-world units available so I'm investigating that now. There is also a firm here in NC that rebuilds Delta bearing packs and spindles at what seem like very reasonable prices.

While surfing I found this video. Other than the poster starting with 220v 1-phase input, this is exactly what I had in mind originally. The E-switch idea is new.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eZjcDUaxnw

My little saga will take a break while I get the mechanical issues fixed. Then I'll be back with more information. As always, thanks to all, sh

[Skip Helms]

Thanks for your patience. The project is done with the exception of leveling the base. Like the proverbial throwing spaghetti against the fridge, the manual finally stuck. Unfortunately, the tach doesn't work. It lights up but that's it. I ordered another one. It needed at least one new pulley bearing.

The control box has the tach display and a window to the VFD display. To the left is a master on/off switch that controls the power to all circuits. On the right is a momentary switch that controls the linear actuator for the table. Inside (sorry for the shaky picture) the 120v juice is spread around to the VFD (by way of a surge suppressor), the actuator, a muffin fan and two wall warts. One of those is for the tach and a late addition is for a gooseneck LED lamp. On the head of the press is the R-S-F switch, a speed pot and a jog button. The last works by knocking the pot down to 0-RPM, choosing forward or reverse and presetting the jog speed in either direction.

Attached are three pictures of the electronics and two of the actuator. It is easy to disconnect if I need to swing the table -- although I'll remember to not leave it at crotch level the next time I do. I used a U-bolt through iron pipe fittings for the table attachment. In the near future I'll make a woodworking table but, to be honest, a butcher block is usually all I need. The new motor is heavier than the old and I'll need to figure some way to mount it more solidly than with the single hinge pin. In the second slowest setting is is pretty quiet but at the lowest there is a rattle.

Things I learned:

a) leave enough signal wire for connecting the remote controls,
b) do better research,
c) calculate the depth of the box shutting mechanism before mounting the VFD. A magnet behind the door works fine, though,
d) anticipate what needs to be drilled before tearing the machine apart and
e) use loose wires from the guts to the door controls. You need more flex than you get with heavy 4-conductor cable.

That's about it. Thanks to all for your help and good luck with your own projects. sh

PS: My uploads are failing. It might be having just switched to Windows 10. I'll get them up when the computer is more reasonable. sh

[Skip Helms]

smaller picture pixels

SMC Face.JPGSMC Actuator.JPGSMC front.JPGSMC guts.JPGSMC Table Bracket.JPG

[Bob Mezzatesta]

Check out this video. I used it for reference when I converted my lathe.
http://youtu.be/NOuAl-sm2i8

[Skip Helms]

That was one of my primary references. To boldly go where lots of people have been before. sh